16
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: On My Radio code. Not. Alarmed!
« on: 23 December 2021, 19:07:22 »
No the rear lighter (which is the easier to use given that there is nothing around it) times out after 5 mins.
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17
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / On My Radio code. Not. Alarmed!
« on: 23 December 2021, 18:23:09 »
It's me, yes, again. Third time today.
I am continually frustrated in diagnostics on this car by the irritating worry about losing the radio code or the alarm sounding if I do not re-connect battery within 15 seconds.
An insertable battery saver only works as long as the cigarette lighter socket is active (not long) and using a slave battery is inconvenient, plus I like to do some tests with a dead system.
Therefore, is there anyway to find out the radio code without going to the dealer (pm me if you feel that is a more secure way to share the info). I believe there is a way to disable the code but if you do through the process more than once, you inadvertently re-activate the code protection! Thoughts on this welcome.
I have had the car from new and the radio was replaced under warranty; except they didn't give me the me code.
Is there any way to disarm the alarm (not immobiliser) permanently also? Again, Pm me if easier.
Cheers
RDS
I am continually frustrated in diagnostics on this car by the irritating worry about losing the radio code or the alarm sounding if I do not re-connect battery within 15 seconds.
An insertable battery saver only works as long as the cigarette lighter socket is active (not long) and using a slave battery is inconvenient, plus I like to do some tests with a dead system.
Therefore, is there anyway to find out the radio code without going to the dealer (pm me if you feel that is a more secure way to share the info). I believe there is a way to disable the code but if you do through the process more than once, you inadvertently re-activate the code protection! Thoughts on this welcome.
I have had the car from new and the radio was replaced under warranty; except they didn't give me the me code.
Is there any way to disarm the alarm (not immobiliser) permanently also? Again, Pm me if easier.
Cheers
RDS
18
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Bulb spec list?
« on: 23 December 2021, 17:38:40 »
Hello all
still working on this parasitic draw I needed to do some calculations on the interior lighting but could find no list of all the bulbs installed in the car, not in Haynes nor the glovebox owners manual.
Can anyone shine a light toward such a list please? Omega Estate B 2003.
Thanks
RDS
still working on this parasitic draw I needed to do some calculations on the interior lighting but could find no list of all the bulbs installed in the car, not in Haynes nor the glovebox owners manual.
Can anyone shine a light toward such a list please? Omega Estate B 2003.
Thanks
RDS
19
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Fuse con-fuse-ion: parasitic draw
« on: 23 December 2021, 17:36:02 »
Season's greetings All
I am trying to track down a parasitic draw and using an AMP Hound for ease, found nothing except the interior light fuse with a 1.2A current going through it - doors open (I didn't want to jump the door mechanisms on the central locking yet).
I will post another on the draw but the issue for this post is the fuses: I assume that the fuse controls the interior light circuit as removing it, the lights went out.
But what other circuits does that 10A fuse (no7) control?
The links to the fuse disposition in the FAQ etc for the B Omega seem to have fuse 7 as a 30A item controlling the window motors - clearly not here, nor does it conform to the glovebox manual.
Does anyone have a detailed list of the fuse specs and location for the 2003 Omega B please (ie not just the page from the glovebox manual)?
The glovebox manual says the fuse 7 controls 7:
Check control,
engine oil level,
courtesy lamp
Ok the last two are clear enough but what is "check control"?
Thanks
RDS
I am trying to track down a parasitic draw and using an AMP Hound for ease, found nothing except the interior light fuse with a 1.2A current going through it - doors open (I didn't want to jump the door mechanisms on the central locking yet).
I will post another on the draw but the issue for this post is the fuses: I assume that the fuse controls the interior light circuit as removing it, the lights went out.
But what other circuits does that 10A fuse (no7) control?
The links to the fuse disposition in the FAQ etc for the B Omega seem to have fuse 7 as a 30A item controlling the window motors - clearly not here, nor does it conform to the glovebox manual.
Does anyone have a detailed list of the fuse specs and location for the 2003 Omega B please (ie not just the page from the glovebox manual)?
The glovebox manual says the fuse 7 controls 7:
Check control,
engine oil level,
courtesy lamp
Ok the last two are clear enough but what is "check control"?
Thanks
RDS
20
Omega General Help / Re: Heater Bypass Valve removal and refitting - much swearing already.
« on: 20 January 2020, 13:17:19 »
Just to be clear, as the OP, I will do it again if necessary! Longer hose picks will be used though to get round the sticktion that I mentioned.
21
Omega General Help / Re: Heater Bypass Valve removal and refitting - much swearing already.
« on: 20 January 2020, 12:24:05 »
The pills are only concentrated stake and kidney pudding anyway and I had plenty. The valve is changed but I still think it can be improved. There was mention of someone in US who has done it so will try to track that down.
Chirp not coming from sounder but from under car.
Chirp not coming from sounder but from under car.
22
Omega General Help / Re: Heater Bypass Valve removal and refitting - much swearing already.
« on: 19 January 2020, 20:47:12 »
Yes, thanks to the help and encouragement.
I agree, I've had at least one each of all those. However it's still a better and easier car to work on than most of the modern stuff so I want to keep it going.
Now, any ideas on this: whilst underneath and running engine to check for leaks, every 10 seconds there was a distinct "chirp". Thought it was a bird at first...but what is it? Seems to come from cat area.
I agree, I've had at least one each of all those. However it's still a better and easier car to work on than most of the modern stuff so I want to keep it going.
Now, any ideas on this: whilst underneath and running engine to check for leaks, every 10 seconds there was a distinct "chirp". Thought it was a bird at first...but what is it? Seems to come from cat area.
23
Omega General Help / Re: Heater Bypass Valve removal and refitting - much swearing already.
« on: 19 January 2020, 17:51:18 »
Easy enough to say from afar but no I've not over egged at all, it us just very fiddly which makes the job rotten. The Sticktion of the rubber joints was too great for the space available. My hands look like prize fighters'.
It IS easier from below.
All back together again and FWIW the lower windscreen trim sits behind the sloping windscreen trim at the edges but the channel on the lower windscreen trim may not go far enough along the bottom of the screen unless the little extra flange below the far edges of the screen are eased back a little.
Let's see how long this OEM valve lasts...
Thanks for all the help.
It IS easier from below.
All back together again and FWIW the lower windscreen trim sits behind the sloping windscreen trim at the edges but the channel on the lower windscreen trim may not go far enough along the bottom of the screen unless the little extra flange below the far edges of the screen are eased back a little.
Let's see how long this OEM valve lasts...
Thanks for all the help.
24
Omega General Help / Re: Heater Bypass Valve removal and refitting - much swearing already.
« on: 19 January 2020, 12:51:23 »
Cheers Nick re bulkhead union advice. I didn't fancy that...
I'll have to see if those pills are on the NHS....
Is there no retro fit better solution for this rotten job? Copper pipe extensions to pick up on new sections of hose to bring the valve further up into engine bay?
I'll have to see if those pills are on the NHS....
Is there no retro fit better solution for this rotten job? Copper pipe extensions to pick up on new sections of hose to bring the valve further up into engine bay?
25
Omega General Help / Re: Heater Bypass Valve removal and refitting - much swearing already.
« on: 19 January 2020, 12:45:56 »
Thanks again that was hard to do on the first because they all resisted force. Managed to get top hose (ie top one of the vertical pair) off using hose pick to free joint. The opposite lower hose needed a crow bar from below) I kid you not) to be eased off and the lower hose of the vertical pair just span on spigot until edged off with lever, both last hoses only possible from below.
I considered freeing hoses at other ends but that was going to involve more risk.
Having a rest now to regroup for the next assault....
I considered freeing hoses at other ends but that was going to involve more risk.
Having a rest now to regroup for the next assault....
26
Omega General Help / Re: Heater Bypass Valve removal and refitting - much swearing already.
« on: 19 January 2020, 10:29:11 »
Thanks but the clips aren't the problem, it's the hoses themselves that won't come off due to lack of access.
27
Omega General Help / Re: Heater Bypass Valve removal and refitting - much swearing already.
« on: 19 January 2020, 01:44:05 »
many thanks for all the swift replies.
my hands are the worst type: large, weak and delicate!
The hoses are indeed secured by proper Jubilee clips and they are far easier to use than the sprung OEM types.
re stressing the hose; I agree totally that's why i was a little worried to follow the other advice to be rough....
As for the picture in one of the posts, that looks like much more room than I seem to have. The hoses will not release from the spigots on the HBV. There is as little space from above as there is from below as far as i can see and the "slack" that one post refers to is just not there.
The HBV is just hanging there and supported only by the hoses, isn't it? ie it is not clipped/secured to anything else?
So, are the "quick release" unions at the bulkhead a no-go?
Taking the manifold off seems a bit excessive: are there any other items or hoses that can come off easily to make more room? what about the tube from the brake servo? Or does another dimension of pain and work await down that route?
How big are your hands?
I have honestly never removed a scuttle to replace an HBV. Putting it back on the ground will make everything alot easier to reach...
Get the clips along the hoses and pull the hoses off. Replace the clips with stainless jubilee clips.
Only other advice, is to not stress the hose down to the side of the engine as that will leak and they're almost impossible to find.
my hands are the worst type: large, weak and delicate!
The hoses are indeed secured by proper Jubilee clips and they are far easier to use than the sprung OEM types.
re stressing the hose; I agree totally that's why i was a little worried to follow the other advice to be rough....
As for the picture in one of the posts, that looks like much more room than I seem to have. The hoses will not release from the spigots on the HBV. There is as little space from above as there is from below as far as i can see and the "slack" that one post refers to is just not there.
The HBV is just hanging there and supported only by the hoses, isn't it? ie it is not clipped/secured to anything else?
So, are the "quick release" unions at the bulkhead a no-go?
Taking the manifold off seems a bit excessive: are there any other items or hoses that can come off easily to make more room? what about the tube from the brake servo? Or does another dimension of pain and work await down that route?
28
Omega General Help / Heater Bypass Valve removal and refitting - much swearing already.
« on: 18 January 2020, 20:07:52 »
Yes it is me..again...
As part of the numerous jobs to do to keep the wonderful car (2.2L) on the road, I need to change the HBV again, this time using a genuine GM type.
However, although i have removed the scuttle panel (again) and the bracket over the wiper mechanism and tried to work from below, i just cannot seem to get any purchase on the hoses going to the HBV (NB car is on 9" ramps now). There is only room for one hand to get in from above or below and that means the whole assembly moves as I try and fail to get hoses off.
Any tricks here?
Any more parts to come off first?
How do the "quick release" unions at the bulkhead work? Will they help me achieve the goal?
I have drained coolant down whilst on ramp - not sure if there is any more coolant that will exit on taking valve out. I have tried clamps but that reduces yet further the minimal room available.
Are there any modifications, that others have tried successfully, to make the job easier next time, eg extending the hoses.....?
cheers
RDS
As part of the numerous jobs to do to keep the wonderful car (2.2L) on the road, I need to change the HBV again, this time using a genuine GM type.
However, although i have removed the scuttle panel (again) and the bracket over the wiper mechanism and tried to work from below, i just cannot seem to get any purchase on the hoses going to the HBV (NB car is on 9" ramps now). There is only room for one hand to get in from above or below and that means the whole assembly moves as I try and fail to get hoses off.
Any tricks here?
Any more parts to come off first?
How do the "quick release" unions at the bulkhead work? Will they help me achieve the goal?
I have drained coolant down whilst on ramp - not sure if there is any more coolant that will exit on taking valve out. I have tried clamps but that reduces yet further the minimal room available.
Are there any modifications, that others have tried successfully, to make the job easier next time, eg extending the hoses.....?
cheers
RDS
29
Omega General Help / Re: scuttle leak into spark plug wells/bores, water and oil: further advice please
« on: 16 January 2020, 11:35:13 »
Great thank you johnny - will give it a go hopefully at weekend.....after replacing the heater bypass valve....again
RDS
RDS
30
Omega General Help / Re: scuttle leak into spark plug wells/bores, water and oil: further advice please
« on: 16 January 2020, 00:37:45 »Without reading through all your previous posts - has it had a replacement screen at any time?...... The lower seal I am referring to is the seal at the bottom of the screen to the scuttle that hides the scuttle trim clips.
It's the original screen thankfully.
Yes I am referring to the flexible curved seal at the bottom of the screen as well.
Apologies, I must have confused myself between the Omega and another car that I had to remove the scuttle to replace the pollen filter (with the same poor re-fitting result), but in any case the Omega's seal has been removed during my attention to the power sounder issue a few years back. Autovaux do not think they can help with the parts in this area. Do you know the part number by any chance?
cheers
RDS