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151

Omega General Help / Re: Is this an OOF first? (snapped oil filter canister

« on: 17 January 2011, 20:19:00 »

Thanks all.

Here's the bit that I want to be sure of before proceeding.

I've already bought all the bit's needed to convert to a regular 'spin-on' type oil filter, so I want to be certain that I'm not going to end up with any of the old canister stuck in there preventing the new one from getting a leak free seal.

I've not yet driven the car on the road, (besides bringing it home from the dealers), so I've never removed a canister type oil filter before. How do they attatch? If I just cut or chisel the broken canister away, will all the bits just fall out?

152

Omega General Help / Re: Is this an OOF first? (snapped oil filter canister

« on: 17 January 2011, 19:57:14 »

Thanks all.

I knew I wad going to be in trouble when I had to use a 28" long bar on the sump plug, which must have been torqued up to a greater value than the wheel nuts! 

I tried a 24mm regular socket on the oil filter canister, but that just started slipping, chewing up the end of the canister. Then I tried a 24mm impact socket, but even with the steering turned to the maximum one way or the other, there just wasn't the room, either with breaker bar or torque wrench, to turn the housing. Hence using the torque wrench with the 3/8th's adapter on the end.

So, how do I get out of this problem?

153

Omega General Help / Is this an OOF first? (snapped oil filter canister

« on: 17 January 2011, 17:13:19 »

So, it seemed that my oil filter canister had decieded to weld itself to the engine block. After juggling around turning the steering this way and that, I finally had enough to get in there with my biggest torque wrench, (everything else had failed to move the oil filter canister).

And then this happened;



 :-?      

Anyone got any ideas? I've tried a load of different sockets, metric and imperial, but none fit. The 3/8th's end of a socket is far too small and a 1/2" drive too big to fit in the square hole.

How easy is it to cut these buggers off, and am I even likely to get it all off if I do take an angle grinder to it?


Any help, anything at all would be greatly appriciated as I'm starting to come towards my wits end with this car 

154

Omega General Help / Re: can someone come fit my cambelt

« on: 17 January 2011, 17:23:45 »

And if any of the regular OOF mechanic do do this job, would you be kind enough to drop me a line as I have some work for you as well, (still can't sort out my cambelt issues and need the car on the road by the end of the month)

Cheers. 

(sorry for the thread hijack)

155

Omega General Help / Re: Timing belt woes. A quick question.

« on: 15 January 2011, 00:46:08 »

Thanks for the replys chaps.

Very, very tired, and had a loooong day at work.

I'll try to answer your questions tomorrow.

156

Omega General Help / Timing belt woes. A quick question.

« on: 14 January 2011, 22:54:25 »

Right then. Timing belt and tensioners changed, but every time I rotate the engine by hand, the timing on banks 1 & 2 retards quite a bit. I think I may have figured out what the problem is, but wanted to run it past you guys as well.

I bought the cambelt and tensioners from my local Vauxhall main dealers. I had to give them my reg number before ordering parts. Therefore I assumed that the parts that I had received were the correct ones???


What is happening is that the cambelt has too much slop in it. When the tensioner to the left of the water pump is adjusted, the belt itself catches with the backing plate of the tensioner, (mines a 2003 2.6).

I'm now wondering the following;
1), My cambelt is too long?
2), I have been given the wrong sort of tensioner?

I'm just about to go out into the garage and count the teeth on my old belt and try to do the same on my new one. What I cant do, unless I remove both the belt and the tensioner, (which would them present the swine of a job of re-fitting the belt), is properly checking the difference between old tensioner and the new one.


So, am I right in thinking that there are two different types of tensioner?
Did I read somewhere on here that the difference between the two is only 5mm?
Before fitting the new tensioner I checked that both backing plate were the same, (they seemed to be), and that they both had the same part numbers stamped onto them, (they did).

So could any of you chaps tell me the difference between the two different types of tensioners?


In advance, thanks 

157

Omega General Help / Re: Brake pad change

« on: 15 January 2011, 17:26:45 »

I thought that there was a guide in the maintainance section of this site?

If not, then try here; http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1289218112/15

Bottom of page 1 and most of page 2. I'd also suggest that (litterally) for the sake of a couple of quid, you get yourself a pack of four new disc retaining bolts. Whilst your at it a large tub of copperslip and a cheapo Dremmel copy from Machine Mart will make the job a lot quicker / easier.


HTH?

158

Omega General Help / Re: Sump Plug-What Torx size to use to remove ? T45 ?

« on: 14 January 2011, 22:40:07 »

T45 on mine as well

159

Omega General Help / Re: rocker cover leaks

« on: 19 December 2010, 21:50:44 »

clean breathers and check the pas side seal is seated properly, its easy to dislodge the seal while negotiating the pita cable tray.

cleaned breathers and will check the pas pipe tomorrow as the leak isn,t as bad and she is running so much better now also adjusted the throttle cable position she now idles properly

Forgive me if I am adding 2+2 here and getting 5, but.....

I get the impression that you think that the poster above you is referring to a problem with the Power Assisted Steering pipe, when what I actually believe he meant was to double check the seal on the passenger side rocker cover, as the cable tray makes the job tricky?

Was ALL the old sealent removed from both the rocker cover and the cylinder head? Did you use the correct type of sealent, and use it in the correct places, (Haynes manual and Maintinance section on here will point you in the right direction)? Did the 'half moon' rubber section that sit at the back, (by the bulkhead) stay in place? Did you get anything trapped between the rocker cover and cylinder head? Was it all torqued down correctly?

160

Omega General Help / Re: Brake Bleading question?

« on: 05 January 2011, 14:35:27 »

Thanks all for the tips and advice. You guys are great. 

I've heard good things and bad about the ezi-bleed systems, but with funds being very short, for the moment I think I'll stick to the manual version. By making it a three man job, with one person watching the resevoir at all times, I hope to eliminate the risk of running the system dry of brake fluid.

cheers all 

161

Omega General Help / Re: Brake Bleading question?

« on: 05 January 2011, 11:55:28 »

The fluid only comes out as long as the pressure in the system is still there.  So it stops almost as the pedal hits the floor.  I would advise closing the nipple slightly before the flow stops as this prevents anything going back in.  The process is marginally slower but who cares.

I would do it with two people as the topping-up can be done between bleeds but if you want to have a party go ahead.

Cheers Chris. To me, this seems like the best way forward.

162

Omega General Help / Re: Brake Bleading question?

« on: 05 January 2011, 11:54:15 »

You only get a small amount of fluid out on each press, hence shutting the nipple each time so as not to suck air in.

Personally prefer the pressure bleed systems using a spare tyre.

How much fluid have you lost?  has the reservoir ever been empty?  if so you could have air in the abs system which needs computer help to get rid of

The resevoir is pretty much empty.

If I do have air in the ABS system, is it going to be an expensive fix?
Could I drive the car to somewhere with the computer thing to get the job done, or would it be call out to home?
If the car wouldn't be driveable with air-locks in the ABS, would it be ok to go turning it around on my driveway, or am I likely to have no brakes at all?

163

Omega General Help / Brake Bleading question?

« on: 05 January 2011, 11:41:09 »

After changing one of my rear calipers I've lost most of my brake fluid. No bad thing as the system could have done with being flushed anyway. I will be doing this via the three man method. One person bleeding the brakes, another operating the pedal, and a third, (the wife), keeping the brake fluid level topped up.

However, after having had a quick read of the Haynes manual I have a quick question.....

The Haynes Manual states;  "Have the assistant fully depress the brake pedal a few times to build up pressure, then on the final downstroke, keep the pedal fully depressed."

"While pedal pressure is maintained, slacken the bleed screw one turn and allow the fluid to flow into the jar. Pedal pressure should be maintained throughout. Follow the pedal down to the end of it's travel if needed, but do not release it. When the flow stops, tighten the bleed screw again, then have your assistant release the pedal slowly. Re-check the reservoir fluid level and top up if necessary".


So, my question is, if brake pedal pressure is maintained with the bleed nipple open, then surely brake fluid is going to continue to come out all day long?

Bearing in mind this will be the first time that I have ever carried out this procedure, I'd have thought that once the air bubbles had finished coming out of the hose attatched to the bleed nipple, you'd have let a little more drain out to be sure, then closed the bleed nipple?

Sorry for the stupid question, but what's written in the Haynes Manual sound to me like you just keep the bleed nipple open & brake pedal depressed until fluid stops coming out? Surely this cant be right?


In advance, cheers   

164

Omega General Help / Re: water pump

« on: 04 January 2011, 23:28:59 »

Keep an eye on the pump if you use a non-Vauxhall pump. I had two fail inside a month and a friends failed very quickly also. Water starting leaking from the front of the pump again.

INSISTED my mechanic used a genuine one, haven't had a problem since.

Something about aftermarkets not having strong propellers, plastic instead of steel I believe.

That's not good 

My new water pump came in packaging that was used by VX years back (AS Delco maybe?), but I did note that the design of the impeller was different to the one on the car and the blades were plastic instead of steel.

Good job I kept the old one just incase, (which seemed in good working order).

165

Omega General Help / Re: water pump

« on: 04 January 2011, 20:43:26 »

Sorry, just had a look through my posting history and cant find the topic on which this cheaper firm was suggested. I did a forum search as well, nut that couldn't find it either.

I had saved the invoice, but after suffering a burst water pipe in the garage, all the parts invoices had become ruined, so I binned them all.

Hopefully someone on here will be along shortly to suggest the same firm which I got mine from.