Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

166

Omega General Help / Re: funny noise

« on: 11 February 2007, 23:16:32 »

No, those parts no longer exist. The lower compression ratio means no need for EGR, as little NOX anyway...

Sorry to hijack the thread, are you (or VX) saying that lower compression ratios result in lower NOX?

167

Omega General Help / Re: Colour Sat Nav Display - Facelift

« on: 12 February 2007, 16:46:46 »

You're a few days too late for me, I just bought one from eBay.de myself, but I'm sure that there's more than one potential buyer on this forum.

If no takers here, just post it on eBay, and watch it go. They're in demand, so as long as it's in working order, and de-paired, you'll get a fair price for it.

Does the NCDC use a code like the non-navigation units?

BTW, what was the fault with the original unit?

168

Omega General Help / Re: Emissions telltale and Premium Unleaded

« on: 11 February 2007, 22:45:35 »

It'd be interesting to know which sensors the ECU uses to determine that the engine may be exceeding emissions.

Its the lambda sensors before and after the cat......it may be possible you have a dodgey one  :-/

Or possibly a dodgy Cat, do they wear out? I seem to remember from my Holden days that raw fuel will destroy the cat hence the oil pressure/fuel pump interlock on those cars.

Just been looking at TIS2000, and it does show two lambda sensors for the 2.6/3.2 V6. I guess only a scan will reveal more info.

169

Omega General Help / Re: Emissions telltale and Premium Unleaded

« on: 11 February 2007, 18:54:56 »

- the second time, after about 40 miles/20 minutes.

Do you always fill up with super at the same garage? if so try a different brand see what happens?

As TB says it shouldnt come on.....using just petrol.....mine does coz i use lpg.....but it is fussy what brand of lpg i put in it.....put Countrywide lpg in and its fine....put BP lpg in it and light comes on....mine is off at the mo.....but im going to Ipswich tomorrow and will have to refill in Ipswich at a BP garage....give it 20 mins and the light will be back on....

Or possibly you shouldnt average 120mph  

The first time it was Shell Optimax/V-Power (99RON according to their blurb), and the second time was two refills of BP Ultimate (97RON) IIRC.

Since I first posted this thread, I have become the proud recipient of an owners manual , which does indicate that higher ocatne fuels are accpetable. It'd be interesting to know which sensors the ECU uses to determine that the engine may be exceeding emissions.

By the way you're absolutely right TD, It must have been 20 miles in 40 mins (honestly officer:o) even the Omega couldn't average 120 MPH in urban traffic

170

Omega General Help / Emissions telltale and Premium Unleaded

« on: 11 February 2007, 16:24:30 »

I'm putting this here for comments really.

I bought my current car back in November, and the emission telltale has come on twice since then (and gone out again). The first time it happened I didn't didn't know why, but after the second time I realised it was happening just after I filled it up with premium unleaded. In both instances it extinguished shortly after refilling with regular unleaded - the second time, after about 40 miles/20 minutes.

Not having an owners manual, I didn't even realise it was the emissions telltale until I read it on my favourite forum

Has anyone else had this experience?

171

Omega General Help / Re: changing v6 oil cooler pipes

« on: 03 February 2007, 01:49:48 »

Hi Mark,

Crows foot refers to the shape (designed to be used with a socket wrench) try these or something similar:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/3-8-DRIVE-CROWFOOT-CROWS-FOOT-TOOL-SPANNER-SET_W0QQitemZ150079342351QQihZ005QQcategoryZ30917QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

(BTW: Delighted you've rescued the old girl, it should make an excellent tow car for your rally car when you're finished)

172

Omega General Help / Re: Here we go again - Air Bag Light

« on: 31 January 2007, 01:21:00 »

Hi AA, can I just check which unit you bought, is it this one?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=006&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=160049536957&rd=1&rd=1


Thinking of buying one myself..

173

Omega General Help / Re: My idel speed seems to be a bit wayward

« on: 19 January 2007, 21:43:55 »

I did my handbrake recently, and all I had to do was adjust the shoes within the drum of the rear discs. It does necessitate removal of the wheels, but with the discs still on. Vaux/Opel have kept it the same as a drum rear brake system, using a special drum brake adjusting tool (in my case - a good small flat blade screwdriver).

There is a post somewhere about adjusting the cable, but apart from being a very awkward job, it should only be done after the shoes have been correctly adjusted.

174

Omega General Help / Re: Headlights

« on: 25 January 2007, 15:15:32 »

That explains a lot, about the only options it did have was the trip computer, and alarm system. Funnily enough, my MV6 (just as basic) does have the HID and self leveling suspension.

175

Omega General Help / Re: Headlights

« on: 25 January 2007, 00:11:53 »

Sorry to confuse the issue TB, but my last Omega, an ex police '98 Elite - son of Frankenstein though it was - did not have HID lamps!

176

Omega General Help / Re: Carbon Canister on Diesels

« on: 25 January 2007, 22:31:59 »

Hi Palmo, if you look in TIS200, and compare documents 00004410 and 00004409 (KTA-1709) in Group L (Fuel and Exhaust System), you'll see that there is a reference to an activated carbon canister in the petrol document (00004409), but no mention of it in the diesel document (00004410).

The carbon canister's purpose is to absorb hydrocarbon vapours (petrol fumes to you and me) and prevent them entering the atmosphere and causing smog. As diesel is far less volatile than petrol, I suspect that diesel vapours contributing to smog are less of an issue with regard to pollution, and therefore there is no requirement for the carbon canister.

177

Omega General Help / Re: 2 way water valve ??

« on: 26 January 2007, 18:44:44 »

No, when ECO is off the compressor cut-in and out as needed, so will not cut-in during the winter. When ECO is on, it will not cut-in even if needed. This is why you need to set it down to LO from time to time during the winter with ECO off and let the A/C run to prevent leaks...
 

I thought if you switch the ECC to demist it would run both the compressor and heater; compressor to de-humidify, and heater to warm the air up - as per Rpont's comment.

I can't tell from mine, as I haven't got around to getting the compressor to work yet, but it takes a hell of a time to demist on a damp night as compared to other cars I've owned and driven with this function working.

178

Omega General Help / Re: V6 Cambelt change procedure

« on: 25 January 2007, 15:18:35 »

By the way chaps, just wanted to say thanks to everyone on the forum for your help and advice. Apart from the money I've saved, I feel a real sense of satisfaction from doing all this work on my car.

179

Omega General Help / Re: V6 Cambelt change procedure

« on: 24 January 2007, 16:24:44 »

I changed my cambelt yesterday, using Robin Hood's excellent DVD as a guide, and a Cam Locking kit rented from Vauxspares. All went well, although it took me over 5 hours in total, including: a few minor interuptions, having to pop out and source a replacement aux belt, and trying to figure out how to remove the rear vacuum hoses off the intake plenum.

One thing missing from the DVD is how to remove the intake plenum, I know it sounds straight forward, but I wasn't familiar with the stainless steel clips on the rear vacuum hoses. Not wanting to break the plastic tubes, I experimented with a few different methods until I finally worked out how to twist it apart (sideways) I wonder if there's a tool for this type of clip.

One difference between the earlier engine in the DVD and my late model engine, is that there is only one cam timing adjuster - between the two banks. The second idler - below the right-hand bank, is not adjustable on mine. In practice this wasn't an issue, as the right-hand bank came up on the mark (I'm not sure why the engineers felt the right hand bank adjustment wasn't necessary), although I did have to use the full travel on the middle adjuster to accurately set the left-hand bank.

Which leads me onto a point much debated here, and on the other forum. For those who haven't yet done it, the kit isn't just a cam locking kit, but is also used to time, or degree in, the camshafts to the crank (it really ought to be called a Locking and Timing kit) - as our host on the DVD mentions, one of the only production engines to require this. Beware of anyone who says you don't need the locking (and timing kit), knowing how important camshaft timings are, you could seriously degrade the performance of your engine just using a hit and miss approach.

One other thing I think may have been overlooked in the DVD is the tensioner locking nut torque - I guessed it at 20NM. Can anyone verify this?

I took the oportunity to degum the throttle body using a can of carburettor cleaner, refastened the intake stainless clips with a pair of sidecutters, finished it all off, and it fired up first time (phew!)

It all runs fine, and seems to idle smoother (probably all the gunk I removed from the throttle body), but I was surprised to hear a little rattle when the engine accelerated slightly (just off idle) particularly as it sounds as though it's coming from somewhere around the tensioner area. I immediately started to wonder if I'd left something loose, unlikely though as one of the reasons it took me so long was that I'd double checked every step along the way; every bolt tension, tensioner adjustment, cam timing etc.

It seems to me that the noise is so slight that it may have been there earlier and I just hadn't noticed, or that the tensioner is slightly noisy when new. Has anyone else who's done this job heard this noise?

This rattling sound aside, I'm very pleased with the job, and recommend it to anyone with a reasonable working knowledge of cars.

Get the DVD, get the locking/timing Kit, and buy a full cambelt replacement kit.

180

Omega General Help / Re: V6 Cambelt change procedure

« on: 19 January 2007, 22:01:03 »

Thanks for the advice, I've ordered the DVD which will be in the post first thing tomorrow. I can pick up a Torx socket set on Monday, but just trying to find a reasonably priced 30mm ring spanner by Tuesday.