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1771

Omega General Help / Re: 3.2 Coolant Leak

« on: 08 September 2016, 21:08:56 »

When I did the HBV on my 2.6 3 years ago due to the usual drips from the rear of the engine area, I removed the scuttle for access, but also a 5 minute job to remove the wiper motor and linkage (as the wiper arms are already off) just gave a bit more access to make the job easier. Incidentally, fitted a genuine a GM valve, thoroughly flushed the cooling system, and it's been fine ever since. Worth checking on the powersounder battery whilst you are in there, I would say.....

1772

Omega General Help / Re: Silly question I expect .....

« on: 08 September 2016, 20:27:56 »

My drive has a slope, but I find this very useful when doing jobs under a car. When changing oil etc, the car can be jacked up so it's level, and then there is sufficient room underneath to access all that is needed. You just have to ensure the car is safely chocked before getting underneath, of course!
I use my line of sight to ensure the car is as level as necessary, looking from a reasonable distance and lining the whole body of the car up with adjacent fencing, or the tops of windows or guttering on neighbours houses. These should be level enough to line the car up with, and whenever I've checked the levels after on level surfaces, they have always been correct.

1773

General Discussion Area / Re: Block Paving Oil Stain Remover - Any Recommendations?

« on: 18 August 2016, 18:15:39 »

Tried lifting the stained blocks and turning them over?

All the blocks I've seen / used can only be fitted one way up. 10 out of 10 for ingenuity though..!

1774

Omega General Help / Re: Exhaust Rubbers

« on: 03 August 2016, 22:32:27 »

I replaced the two centre sections and back box on my 3.2 in 2008 with Bosal sections. Thinking it was best to replace the rubbers at the same time, I priced up genuine VX, but due to their (relatively) high price, I fitted new Unipart which were a lot cheaper. Twelve months later at the MOT, an advisory was the exhaust rubbers were perished. They were cracked and were splitting. Fortunately, I had kept the perfectly good VX ones I had removed, so I refitted them binning the Unipart rubbers.
The original VX rubbers are still on the car today (and the Bosal exhaust) with no signs of them deforming or perishing.
Genuine VX for me, without question.

1775

Omega General Help / Re: New to this Omega lark...

« on: 27 July 2016, 22:40:55 »

The blue plug is meant to go to the bonnet press down switch thingy. Presumably for the alarm.

Isn't the bonnet switch for the alarm on the offside (drivers) suspension turret?

1776

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Superunleaded

« on: 21 July 2016, 22:18:04 »

Only have Asda, Morrisons and Essco where I live. They are all 97ron I believe. Is it even worth using 97ron?
[/quote]

Don't know about Asda, but I've never seen 97 RON at any Morrisons, and I visit many different Morrisons fuel stations in connection with work. I've even asked if they are ever likely to get Super Unleaded, as the older fuel stations invariably have 3 fuels per pump, duplicating on one grade, a 'left over' from the days when they also used to have leaded. The answer has always been 'No' or just a gormless look as they try to understand what I've asked......
Are you sure your Morrisons had super? It would me worth mentioning it again if there are others with it!

1777

Omega General Help / Re: End of the line

« on: 18 July 2016, 23:28:29 »

There are also quite a good number of genuine Omega parts that are now not available from VX, and, although aftermarket parts are available for some, the age old question of quality comes into it. If a car that is out of production has a good enough following, then companies may take the plunge and make difficult to get or unobtainable parts.

Have to say its easier now to get parts for my TR4A, than it was back in the early 80s when I rebuilt it

Also having been a Triumph owner for over 35 years, there is a plentiful supply of aftermarket / remanufactured parts to keep them on the road or for restoration purposes, but I have to question the quality of some of these parts. My experience is that generally these parts are nowhere as good as genuine / new old stock parts; the supply of new old stock genuine parts is virtually none existant. Many aftermarket parts from a well known supplier based in Lincoln have a reputation for being very poor quality for example. I think it depends largely how much these aftermarket suppliers are prepared to invest in the remanufacture of parts as to their quality.
I have been collecting genuine Triumph parts for many many years so as a result I rarely have to buy parts from anywhere else. My view has been that if it is cheap enough whether I needed it or not, if I could afford it, buy it. If I didn't need it, then there would always be someone who would buy it off me. I have been doing the same (to a lesser degree) with Omega parts as I intend running my cars as long as I am able to, and if I find genuine or difficult to find parts at the right price, that I am likely to or may need, if I can afford them, I buy them.
I'm not talking about service items, but the more specific items to the Omega that I have had to replace going off my last 12 years of Omega ownership.
In my view, genuine parts are generally superior to aftermarket, not all, but the vast majority.
I doubt however, there will be the investment in the remanufacture of Omega parts unless the demand is there; and the cars need to be around for the parts to be required. It's a vicious circle.

1778

Omega General Help / Re: Alignment query (again)

« on: 18 July 2016, 22:52:26 »

The rear toe and rear camber are in the red.  And instead of getting new track rods at the rear I'm going to do what TB did and hose them down in penetrating oil for a couple of weeks prior to a visit. 

Whenever I have needed to adjust (or have adjusted) the rear track control arms, dispite soaking them for several days beforehand in a good penetrating oil, they have still been solid and I have not been able to free them off whilst on the car. The only way, as has been said, is to remove them (which is a relatively simple job), measure them so that they can be put back in near enough the same position, and then get some heat on the threads, and then once moving, grease them up before putting back for the proper adjustment to be done.

1779

Omega General Help / Re: End of the line

« on: 18 July 2016, 09:24:24 »

There are also quite a good number of genuine Omega parts that are now not available from VX, and, although aftermarket parts are available for some, the age old question of quality comes into it. If a car that is out of production has a good enough following, then companies may take the plunge and make difficult to get or unobtainable parts. But if there isn't the following for them, and the cars are being broken up for parts, or owners are not repairing them, then that is the start of the slippery downhill slope that will only get worse. Unfortunately, some Omegas are worth more in parts that as a whole car which doesn't help the situation.
Comparing them to the Triumphs I own, there will be very good Omegas out there still - it is still possible to find good original Triumphs if you are prepared to put the time and effort in, and to pay the appropriate price for the right car......it's just finding them, but if you do find one, then I would make every effort to preserve it as best as you can.
Just my thoughts that's all.....
After all, what is there out there that in anyway compares with what the Omega offers without spending good amount of money?

1780

Omega General Help / Re: End of the line

« on: 17 July 2016, 22:49:10 »

Back in 1980, looking for a bigger car to carry my growing family, I bought a 6 cylinder Triumph 2000 which then was 6 years old. Absolutely loved it, and although they had only been out of production for 3 years, scrap yards were full of them, and parts were plentiful. The 2.5PI model was often scrapped due to the lack of understanding of the fuel injection system, which if wrongly set up gave horrendous consumption figures, but that has led to them now being sought after models today due to their relative rarity. I got the bug in 1980, and currently have 5 various models in the range, which I take to shows.
I got the Omega bug for similar reasons back in 2001 after buying my first 3.2 Elite, as I wanted a heavy powerful rear wheel drive car for towing. I've since collected quite a few to say the least !
What I am trying say is that in my early days of Triumph ownership, I quickly found out the problem areas for rust, and did something about it with rust preventative measures. Today, they have virtually no signs of rust at 40+ years old. As I felt my Omegas were were long term keepers, I have done the same wth them - noted where the rust prone areas were on other cars, and did something about it in mine. As a result, I only bought a replacement Omega that had as near perfect bodywork as possible, and then set about preserving them as best I could. Today, all my Omegas have perfect rear arches, and are showing no signs of rust. I'm not saying that they will never rust, but the process can be minimised with suitable treatment. It's pointless putting good money into an example that already has rusty arches, for example, as fighting the tin worm is a never ending battle once it's there.
I believe that good Omegas, especially the higher spec'd models are now getting quite sought after, and in a few years time, will no doubt be quite a rare car. The value of them has already bottomed out and will surely continue to rise. Good examples can still be found if prepared to wait for the right car and maybe pay that bit extra for it, but then take the right precautions to keep it as rust free as possible for as long as possible.
I also have a high performance Audi, and although it's a tremendous car, overall I enjoy the Omega more for what it offers.
Maybe the Omega Elite will some day be like the Triumph 2.5 PI - once a car scrapped prematurely, but years on, a rarity and quite a classic in its own right!
All said, I intend being an Omega owner for some considerable years to come!
Sorry about the length of this post, but keeping a possible future classic car on the road to me is important and I will be doing so for as long as possible with the Omega!
John.

1781

General Car Chat / Re: How long have you had your Omega?

« on: 15 July 2016, 17:12:45 »

Bought my first Omega, a 51 3.2 Elite saloon in Nocturno Blue in 2004 when it was 3 years old. Sold it last year after 11 years - a fantastic car, don't know why I sold it really, except that I have too many... (which I keep getting reminded of.... )
Bought my 03 3.2 Elite estate in black in 2010
Bought my replacement low mileage 02 3.2 Elite saloon in 2014 (which is a nice one in an unusual colour for an Elite - petrol blue, and probably the real reason I sold the first one .....)
Bought my low mileage 03 2.6 Elite saloon in sliver in 2011
Bought my 03 2.6 Elite saloon in August last year (only because it was a good car, in BLACK!!)
I also have bought 2 3.2 Elite saloons, for parts, although one is too good to scrap really......
I also have acquired two 2.2 CDX estates, one silver and one black; the black one is definately a scrapper, but the silver one only has 45k on it, but will be going I'm afraid. Once you driven a V6, the 2.2's just don't quite do it any more.....
I still can't quite understand though why 'the boss' thinks I have too many.....

1782

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Superunleaded

« on: 15 July 2016, 16:43:09 »

I'd have 100 octane (or RON - marginal difference, I know, before anyone comments...) or 5 star WITH lead any day, so then my old Triumphs would be very happy!  They don't like this unleaded crap with all the ethernal content in it......

1783

Omega General Help / Re: AC Leak FL Elite

« on: 14 July 2016, 19:05:14 »

There is an ac pipe which runs from condenser under battery tray,along chassis rail to the bulkhead. They are poorly fitted and rub thru on the rail .good news is they are available new from gm approx £60

Not an easy replacement,  abs pump is in the way, and couple of electricky connector's, under the battery tray, also pipe has two clips on chassis rail,

I had a leak from this very same pipe where a pin prick of a hole had developed from movement of the pipe on a previous Omega. Spoke to a tech friend at VX about its replacement and he pulled his face saying it's an awkward job, and he also stated it required the ABS pump moving to get at it. From memory, I think he said VX quote about 5.5 hours for the job, which is an indication that it isn't that simple a job!

1784

Omega General Help / Re: leather

« on: 12 July 2016, 17:11:19 »

I like leather seats in the Omega, but leather needs cleaning to keep it at its best. Some say black leather doesn't show the dirt like the lighter shades, but if it isn't cleaned regularly, it becomes excessively shiny due to dirt combined with body movement, which causes it to have a more 'slippery' feel. How many cars with leather seats do you see with a shiny drivers seat, but a more matt finish to the passenger and even more 'as new ' matt finish on the rear seats? Leather seats are naturally more 'slippery' than cloth, but regular use of a proprietary leather leather will help to restore the 'as new' matt finish and reduce the slippery feel.
The shiny look is more noticeable on the nappa leather finish, rather than the grained leather fitted in 2003 on cars, but both benefit from regular cleaning.
I regularly clean my leather seats in all my Omegas and my Audi, all of which have leather and the problem of 'slippery' seats is greatly reduced.
Hope that helps....

1785

General Car Chat / Re: Spotted

« on: 06 June 2016, 14:36:18 »

Seen moving at a fast rate of knots on the M65 eastbound near Darwen J4, a silver Elite saloon J99LES. Thought it was a 2.6, but it had a twin pipe rear exhaust. Not seen another Elite in East Lancs for quite a while.

Not exceeding the speed limit I hope. Omega drivers don't do that do they 

I'm sure Les was doing 'just about ' 70mph.....