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Messages - Andy H

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181
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Spark Plugs
« on: 18 May 2021, 11:55:34 »
Quads are/were an attempt to stretch the service interval for the V6 (to 80,000 miles IIRC) and we all know how well that turned out  ::)

4 electrodes should erode at half the rate of 2 electrodes - it probably made some sense when VX were selling the idea to fleet buyers of doing 80,000 miles without lifting the bonnet.....

182
Car Parts, bits For Sale & Wanted / Re: Wanted NCDC
« on: 10 May 2021, 21:21:06 »
Whats wrong with existing?

Only got CIDs here, so can't help with GIDs
https://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=148243.msg1979774#msg1979774
It is the CID he needs.
We only suggested GID because we thought the last CIDs went into orbit above Brakely a few years ago  ::)

183
Omega General Help / Re: OBD2
« on: 09 May 2021, 05:09:34 »
I use a £15 bluetooth dongle and 'scanmyopel' on my Android phone.

It reads codes and live data for engine, gearbox and ABS/traction control in 2.6 & 3.2 Omegas.

184
The alternative is to tap into the audio line between the cd changer and head unit and then fit a suitable modern single din unit in the glovebox to give you BT and DAB :y this works to good effect from personal experience.

A working screen would be nice... the half screen display that was standard (CID was an option) on the Elite should over come that particular issue.
A new GID screen would need to be paired with the NCDC.

A working NCDC and paired GID from another 2.6 would be a straight swap and fix all the issues in one hit.

185
Check wiring to display. I think the ribbon cable causes problemsThe radio I would remove, open it and remove the cd cartridge. But most people remove the original radio, for a new double din style. I think there are kits available that allow you to still use the steering wheel, controls?

It's an Elite so will have Bose, this means swapping out the headunit will be a little more involved.
I swapped out the Bose headunit on my Elite. There is a multipin connector in the drivers footwell that connects to a fat bundle of cables that go to the Bose amplifier in the boot. I got hold of a scrap loom & plug and linked the appropriate pins so I could remove the Bose gubbins.

186
If you swap the head unit out for something aftermarket you won't be able to control the screen even if it was still working.

Your best option is probably to get a screen (and instrument stalk) from a lesser/non NCDC car. That will give you a working clock and all the warning messages (once you sort out the wiring) and leave you free to fit a double din headunit of your choice.

187
General Discussion Area / Re: mobile phone numbers
« on: 28 April 2021, 12:02:20 »
If it is important they can leave a message or send a text.

If it is a scam you can end up calling a premium rate number without realising it. Have you tried an internet search for those numbers?

you *might* miss out on a $million pay out on your uncles will in Nigeria but that is a chance I am prepared to take.

188
General Car Chat / Re: So what have you done to your car today?
« on: 18 April 2021, 10:50:28 »
Found out the Omega not too keen on ticking over-at least until it's warmed up a bit,possibly stale fuel/needs a good blast[it has been stood biggest part of a year]was going to run it round on the private land in front of the lock up only to find the n/s rear caliper had seized solid so need to see about sourcing one of those as well as the new battery it needs as I robbed that off it for the 960 when the battery on that died of old age.
Wynns fuel treatment and some decent fuel.

Re the rear calipers, non vented are readily available new, (stamped 40), but vented aren't (stamped 42).

iirc, yours is a 3.0 so should have non vented ;)

Ideally change them as a pair.

Or strip, clean, and reseal the existing.
chances are that the pads have become crusty around the edges and got wedged in the caliper.
Take them out, dress the edges with a file, pop them back in and I think you will find that the calipers themselves are still perfectly fine.

189
General Car Chat / Re: Vauxhall Carlton "scrapped"
« on: 20 February 2021, 17:57:21 »

Reminds me of my 1976 (P) 2500S. Mimosa yellow with Stag alloys as standard. Twin SU carbs instead of injection.

Overdrive made it very 'long of leg' although economy was still woeful at around 13 MPG, following a play with the Colourtune.



how the hell do you get it that low? Single SUs are excellent, but I've never seen a decent throttle linkage on a factory twin(or more) installation.


Colourtunes are pretty good but if using them on multiple carb engines, you want at least one per carb. I've a friend who tunes the quad Dellortos on his hotrod with eight of them, bought for pennies at various autojumbles.

The only way I could get it to run smoothly, and with immediate throttle response, was to have it running 'rich'

Set up to run properly on the Colourtune it would always gag and stutter as though it was starved of fuel and running too 'lean'

It's possible the carb needles and jets were worn and needed replacing. I was only 23 what did I know? :)

Lovely looking car though.
Probably just needed a spot of oil in the dampers in the carburettor pistons. ;)

190
General Discussion Area / Re: battery operated tools
« on: 13 February 2021, 01:52:09 »
Probably caused by some grease becoming too stiff for the motor to start.

Once running they get pretty hot.

191
General Car Chat / Re: So what have you done to your car today?
« on: 09 February 2021, 10:04:37 »
Changed the drivers side engine mount on the Mazda Premacy.

Ever since I bought it nearly, 2 years ago, it has felt harsh at idle and something seemed to be 'loose' on the drivers front side but I couldn't find a cause. 3 weeks ago I convinced myself that the (fluid filled) engine mount had become incontinent so I managed to source a replacement.

Next time I looked I couldn't find any sign of leakage and rocking the engine seemed to be normal so I lost confidence :-(

With the old one off the car it was possible to see a split in the rubber. The new one lifted the engine up by 20mm and the interior of the car has stopped buzzing and rattling at idle. Result :-)

192
Omega General Help / Re: Late model powersounder wanted
« on: 14 November 2020, 03:35:58 »
Yep. It would be tragic to lose an example like yours to a fire over a poxy powersounder.

I'll get on it and remove it :y.  Is there a guide for removal ? and is there a trick to stop it making a noise as soon as its unplugged ? 8)

Thanks in advance.
Andy.
The procedure for disconnecting the main battery without triggering the powersounder is to switch the ignition on, wait for most of the warning lights to go out, switch the ignition off again and then run round and pull the battery connection off within about 20 seconds (can't remember the official figure and it is only approximate ).

The sounder might notice when you disconnect the data line and go off anyway.

193
My 'magnet on a stick' has got me out of trouble many times.

I think the last time I did wishbones I dropped the same bolt inside the chassis rail twice (and recovered it with the magnet) before I finally finished the job.


195
General Discussion Area / Re: The BBC...little, annoying things
« on: 18 June 2020, 11:19:42 »
Quote
Every record has been destroyed or falsified, every book rewritten, every picture has been repainted, every statue and street building has been renamed, every date has been altered. And the process is continuing day by day and minute by minute. History has stopped
George Orwell "1984"

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