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Messages - johnnydog

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1876
General Car Chat / Re: false SORN
« on: 08 August 2017, 10:44:00 »
Apply for a V5, and get it dragged onto your drive. When the V5 arrives, get a key cut and either use it or scrap it.

You are hardly likely to get a V5 for it, especially when someone obviously has an interest in the vehicle because of the SORN. Without a V5, any application for a new V5 results in a letter going to the registered keeper to verify if they have sold / disposed of it. No response from the RK after a certain time frame does result in a new V5 (at a cost) but as its been sorned I doubt it will result in a new one.
If you don't mind getting done for theft of the vehicle as well - the registered keeper is not necessarily the legal owner. So assuming the rights of the owner when you start using it or scrapping it could end up with you getting a visit from the boys in blue......

1877
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Booster Pack
« on: 07 August 2017, 16:07:09 »

Still it has twice started my 2.6 on its own with the car battery removed. 
[/quote]

I was once told by an auto electrical that you should NEVER start a car with either a jump / booster pack or jump leads from another vehicle connected directly to the leads of the recipitant car without an actual battery connected. Even if the battery on the recipitant car is totally flat or knackered, you should still leave it in situ, and connect to either the terminals or preferably any built in terminals / earth point. Maybe the more knowledgable auto electrikery experts can expand on the reasoning behind this a bit more?

1878
General Car Chat / Re: Speed camera
« on: 07 August 2017, 15:51:30 »
Think it was an old style one
If they flash once - in either direction - it's usually because they're out of film or there is no camera in them

My understanding is that Gatso cameras don't flash when they are not 'loaded' i.e. there is no camera in them, because the reflective lens containing the flash that is clearly visible when it is loaded, isn't there! When they are not loaded (no camera) the flash area (in the upper right corner) is black. When they are loaded with a camera, the flash area is silver.
Trouble is you can see whether it's loaded / live only in your review mirror when you've passed the camera when it might be too late, or on the approach in the opposite direction and remembering for next time you pass it. But equally, it could have been loaded with a camera in the intervening period.....

1879
That said, I wouldn't buy an old, low mileage diesel with dpf.

I thought 'old diesel' and 'DPF' don't go together - old diesels chuck out the smoke screen on acceleration because they haven't got a DPF. Newer diesels with a DPF are visibly cleaner in what they chuck out, and in the exhaust pipe because the DPF collects these otherwise visible deposits.
My experience of DPF's is purely down to the driving style of the user. Regular longer runs at reasonable speeds presents no problem as the DPF is burning off the deposits it collects. Low mileage pottering doesn't get the temperatures up to burn off the deposits, and that's when the problems start. But then you wouldn't buy a diesel and just use it to 'potter around', a petrol engine is the right engine for this type of use.
Another issue exists when users of diesels don't know the correct procedure when they get the first warning of a DPF issue - on VAG cars, an orange emissions light gives the first warning, and if the correct procedure (regeneration) is followed which basically involves a 15 minute run at higher engine speeds (motorway typically), the issue is normally rectified. If the normal driving style continues without remedying the issue, and the red warning appears, then it's a trip to the dealers. Generally, a simple regeneration procedure done using the computer is all it takes (its basically a programme that just automatically runs the engine through various rev ranges to clear the DPF)

Be aware on all those VAG cars of the A4/A6/Pisshat/Octavia sized cars, the front suspension wear sets in from about 80k.  There's quite a lot of arms/linkages involved, and once one starts to wear, the others generally aren't far behind, and it becomes a never ending saga.

I also would have to disagree with the above. Part of my job involved driving a wide selection of Audi / VW vehicles, from new low mileage cars to older 'been to the moon and back' high mileage cars. Very rarely did I ever encounter suspension issues; the only main item that tended to wear more than others were the 'C' links (anti roll bar drop links), which gave a similar symptom to any other car when worn - a minor knock / clunk or rumble over uneven road surfaces. Ball joints, wishbones, suspension legs and coil springs and the like were very rarely an issue.

1880
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Car Alarm keeps going off
« on: 05 August 2017, 23:49:52 »
Last time my alarm kept going off intermittently on my Omega, it was the power sounder. Fitted a new one and all was well. Another indication of a faulty powersounder is three beeps when you lock the car.

1881
Omega General Help / Re: another exhaust ?
« on: 04 August 2017, 00:46:00 »
They have to be drone free as well.  Fastfit exhausts, usually Bosal or similar crap drone. Can't be doing with it.

I have to disagree with the droning comments of Bosal exhausts based on my own experiences with them. I have fitted several Bosal pieces on 3.2's from the cats back with no problems at all. I found they were an excellent fit, heavier gauge steel compared with other makes available at the time, and the nice sound from them was comparable to the distinct V6 note from the original Vauxhall systems fitted on manufacture. Certainly didn't drone or sound tinny.
I was so pleased with the first Bosal system I fitted on my Omega, I later bought several extra pieces 'for stock' from the Bosal factory in Preston about 3 or 4 years ago when they were selling systems off when there was talk that the factory was going to close.
I am perfectly happy with them.

1882
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Booster Pack
« on: 01 August 2017, 23:03:42 »
There are some cheap and nasty battery packs out there; the capacity varies considerably, some have fancy work lights which I think are unnecessary, but not all have a cigarette lighter type of plug in power socket which is useful (especially if you are a camper or caravaner for charging portable devices) and I think it's definitely a case of 'you get what you pay for'. Looking after the battery is important - charging it regularly after use, and not leaving it for long periods without use or a charge. It's a bit like the battery on a cordless drill - neglect it and it will fail relatively quickly.
I have had an SIP battery pack now for several years which is quite compact, and it's been useful and reliable.

1883
Omega General Help / Re: Estate rear shock lower mount
« on: 01 August 2017, 22:31:24 »
Here's the pic


Just as a bit of reassurance whilst you are heaving at the shock lower sleeve - I must say your car looks quite clean and tidy / rust free underneath...... :y

Personally, for the effort it takes, I would remove the shock and replace the sleeve in the bush on the bench. The angle of the shock whilst in position on the car will make it a bit more awkward.
The fact that the sleeve has come away from the bush will, in my opinion not adversely be a problem as the sleeve is clamped tight when bolted up, and if the sleeve is a tight fit to get back in the bush, then you should be ok.
Coming to the same conclusion myself. I have never removed a rear shock on an Omega estate, but it looks like - peel back carpets, find the upper mounting, undo the bolt and extract shock downwards. Sound right?

Yes, there's a little more to remove to take estate shocks off an estate - whereas the saloon is basically removing the rubber domed cover in the boot, on the estate you have to take out the boot carpet by undoing the umpteen plastic retaining clips, and then you will find a couple of metal covers held on by self tappers. They have remains of sealant round them, so they just need easing up with a broad screwdriver or small pry bar to release. You will then see the top of the shock, which you remove from the car as you would a saloon, and although access is slightly more restricted, it certainly is an easy job to do.

1884
On the V6 if the covers are not positioned absolutely spot on, then there can be a bit of noise from the belt. On my 3.2 this happened following a replacement Vauxhall kit, and a very slight change of position of the covers cured it. There isn't much free movement but worth a try for what it takes.

1885
Omega General Help / Re: Estate rear shock lower mount
« on: 01 August 2017, 17:16:11 »
Here's the pic


Just as a bit of reassurance whilst you are heaving at the shock lower sleeve - I must say your car looks quite clean and tidy / rust free underneath...... :y

Personally, for the effort it takes, I would remove the shock and replace the sleeve in the bush on the bench. The angle of the shock whilst in position on the car will make it a bit more awkward.
The fact that the sleeve has come away from the bush will, in my opinion not adversely be a problem as the sleeve is clamped tight when bolted up, and if the sleeve is a tight fit to get back in the bush, then you should be ok.

1886
General Car Chat / Re: My Omega - what a car!
« on: 30 July 2017, 11:41:00 »
I had occassion to go to homebase yesterday to buy a tin of red oxide primer for my new rusty towbar.

It's 1/2 mile on foot and 1 mile by car and the speed limit is 20 and 30.

I went in my 3.2 MV6 and it put a smile on my face. Probably cost me £3 in fuel.

I'd be having serious worries if my Omega was supping fuel at the rate of £3 a mile!!

1887
I think I would check the rear tyres for any lumps or bulges, and then for balance.
I would also check the the rubber propshaft couplings for deterioration.

1888
Omega General Help / Re: Omega 3.2
« on: 30 July 2017, 11:27:12 »
If you want to keep it standard, then the only manufacturer of the self levelling rear shocks is Vauxhall / GM - no other manufacturer made them for the aftermarket; presumably due to likely low demand.
Munro do a ride levellers kit, but they work off the same principle as the old CD Cavaliers in the late 80's - there was an air valve mounted on the boot / tailgate aperture which could raise or lower the desired ride height by using an airline or manual pump. Not ideal really. The height was adjusted manually and not automatically as the standard system dependent on weight in the car.
If you are not in a rush for them, they do crop up occasionally if you are prepared to search online. I have bought several for saloons and estates over recent years, 'just in case' and all have been under £50 each.

1889
Omega General Help / Re: Engine red hot
« on: 28 July 2017, 16:52:18 »
When I replaced the alternator on my 3.2,  to give me better access, I removed the rubber covers (for want of a better description) from the bracket and lifted the pipes out of the way as much as they would allow without forcing them. From memory they came off the bracket quite easily and went back ok after the job was done.
I'd go and have brew, come back to it and they'll come off no problem. Always works....

1890
General Discussion Area / Re: Blimey
« on: 26 July 2017, 17:31:25 »
I go on a Triumph classic car forum - it used to be very active, but now there is very little activity daily. The OOF is very active in comparison. It would seem that it has been abandoned for a Facebook Triumph Fan Club page where there is plenty of activity. Maybe it's an age thing, but I have no desire to read what someone's having for breakfast or other uninteresting habits, so I won't be joining the Triumph rats deserting the sinking ship.....

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