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Messages - johnnydog

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1966
Omega General Help / Re: ditching self levelling suspension
« on: 05 November 2014, 19:09:58 »
I have only had to change s/l shocks when they have started showing signs of leaking i.e. dampness on the lower body below the bladder. Other than that if they look relatively rust free, I would definately get them from the scrapper. Last lot I got from a scrapper were £10 each.  They worked fine. Cost also depends on whether the chap in the yard knows exactly what they are!!

1967
Omega General Help / Re: ditching self levelling suspension
« on: 05 November 2014, 13:54:24 »
I personally would keep the s/l suspension set up - I regularly tow a heavy trailer with a 3.2 Elite saloon and the s/l set up works very well. What reinforced how good the system is was when I broke the pigtail off both springs in a short space of time and the back end was a lot lower than normal under load; the cause being the compressor had given up the ghost. A replacement compressor, two genuine VX 'LA' springs and the ride height has been restored, and the ride height when towing barely different from solo. S/l suspension ? Wouldn't change it for standard at all....

1968
Omega Gallery / Re: 12 Years Old Today
« on: 02 May 2014, 22:48:30 »
Nocturno blue is one of the best colours imho! Very nice car, the only thing..... the boot badges being on the wrong way round would niggle me....sorry!!!!

1969
My understanding is that copper slip reduces the squeal caused by slight moment of the pad under braking, often referred to as rattle - hence the term anti rattle shims that are often found on certain makes of pads. Sometimes, instead of shims, pad manufacturers use an anti squeal compound on the back of the pad, which looks like a crinkly substance. In this case, there is no real need to use copper slip, although I always use a minute amount as good measure. On the rear of VX replacement pads you may have noticed that only two pads have a riveted anti squeal shim on the back - this should go on the piston side with a smear of copper slip for good measure. Basically, copper slip does the same job as the anti squeal shims  or the anti rattle compound on the back of the pad.

1970
General Car Chat / Re: Plod/MV6 ?
« on: 20 April 2014, 00:13:50 »
I have recently removed a pair of rear springs from a scrap ex police 3.2 auto estate with s/l suspension. This vehicle had obviously been used by the Police right upto to it's dying day - on a skid pan as it was still fitted with extended mudflaps and aluminium plates in lieu of the lights front and back. It was nicely oiled underneath so there was no rust - just impact damage to the front. The rear springs were VX - LR ident code. Regrettably, the car has since been crushed - I got quite a few good parts off it, but it was crushed with the engine and gearbox still in it...insane, but no vehicles linger for long in that yard...

1971
General Car Chat / Re: Plod/MV6 ?
« on: 29 March 2014, 18:37:32 »
My '51 plate 3.2 Elite saloon had LA ident rear springs fitted as standard from new. I have replaced both sides several times always replacing them with genuine VX, and I've had no problems with them. I tow a car trailer , a caravan and heavy trailers. The air suspension compressor decided to give up the ghost a while back and then the car then sat down heavily at the back with a load on, but with a replacement compressor, the ride height remains pretty constant again no matter whats on the back.

1972
Omega General Help / Re: Elite Suspension
« on: 26 September 2013, 15:34:59 »
Thanks for the replies.
Did Police 3.2 saloons with s/l shocks have stiffer springs than the standard 3.2 Elite? I want the ride height to stay the same, but stiffer springs would be advantageous......

1973
Omega General Help / Help in diagnosing EML fault codes!
« on: 26 September 2013, 01:34:49 »
On my 51 reg 3.2 Elite, the EML illuminated on the motorway, but the actual running of the car hasn't been affected. It has done 101k.
My local VX dealer kindly plugged in the Tech2 with the following faults codes -

P150 (9)
o2 slow response
Bank 2 Sensor 1
Bank 2 Sensor 2 (x2)

The codes were cancelled, but the light came back on after about 10 miles and I have noticed the odd 'wiff' of fuel from outside the car.

I am assuming that Sensor 1 is the front o2 sensor / Lamda sensor on Bank 2 and is the likely culprit.
Is it possible that this faulty o2 sensor is causing the codes being thrown up for Bank 2 Sensor 2.
Incidentally, I have read the very informative fuel trim / cat efficiency topic with great interest.
 
Could anyone explain what the code P150 (9) refers to, and also which is Bank 2 ?!!!! Nearside or offside of the car???

Would replacing the front o2 sensor be the first thing to do to possibly cure it? I have also read somewhere that the recommended interval for changing the front o2 sensors is 100k?

Thanks in advance,
John     

1974
Omega General Help / Re: Elite Suspension
« on: 26 September 2013, 01:04:31 »
On the subject of springs.... I have a 3.2 Elite saloon with which I tow a car transporter with. Fully laden, the Omega tows it very well. However, over the years I have broken a few GM rear springs on both sides - always on the 'pigtail'. Following the last spring change, I noticed the car was still sitting rather low at the rear, and I realised that the compressor had packed up, and possibly the springs had been doing all the work without any assistance from the s/l shocks. With a replacement compressor, the ride height has now returned to normal and raises correctly.
At the moment it has genuine GM standard Elite air suspension springs with 'LA' markings. I also have a set of GM springs from a Police 3.2 estate (which had been used on a skid pan so were nicely oiled with not an ounce of rust!) with the markings 'LK'.
I have two queries -
- Does anyone know whether the 'LK' springs are standard 3.2 Elite s/l rear springs for an estate, or specifically a Police spec spring?
- If I was to fit these 'LK' springs from the 3.2 Police estate to the 3.2 saloon, would the ride height be affected as I am assuming that the spring is firmer, or would it ride at the same height once the s/l suspension has done its bit?
I've not found any reference to the poundage / lb2 (in old money) for the different springs and my local VX dealer just scratched his head with a blank look on his face when I asked!!
Any info would be appreciated!
   

1975
Omega General Help / Re: Wheel arches
« on: 30 August 2013, 00:55:51 »
Its understand it's called an protector strip, and I believe it is where the rubber seal of the door contacts. As there is usually a lot of grit on that rubber, I presume its to protect the paintwork.
VX part nos are 90511361 (RH), and 90511360 (LH).
In the past, when I have been repairing wheelarches, I have successfully removed them using a hot air gun (gently), and following the repair, reapplied them with automotive carpet spray adhesive. Just be careful they don't stretch too much when removing them. 

1976
If you manage to source a good used coil pack, it should come with the rubbers and there is every chance that they may be serviceable without the need for the kit. Don't despair yet!!

1977
When / if you do get a replacement coil pack, check the plug rubbers before fitting. For relatively little money VX supply a kit of replacement rubbers and springs (these generally are not needed).  If the rubbers have been drenched in oil for a while, then they are likely to be split / perished at the ends.

1978
Omega General Help / Re: Rusty Arches - Repair
« on: 28 August 2013, 01:14:09 »
Going off at a slight tangent, but to do with rusty wheelarches.....for those cars with already rusty wheelarches, then this is probably of no use unless you have them repaired with new metal, but for what it's worth, to prevent the common corrosion problem occurring, as long as your arches are predominantly rust free, then I recommend the following.... On a warm day ( warmer the better) remove all the side trim from the boot / tailgate areas, including all electrical parts such as Bose sound equipment, fuel flap solenoid etc. This will give good (reasonable would be a better description!) access to the inner wheelarches /bowl. If there is evidence of surface rust, treat it with a rust converter such as Dinitrol, which is available in aerosol form and has a long shallow angle spray patten which can be directed into the arches and as far as the front edges of the wings by the back doors. You will have to contort yourself at some unusual angles and place your arm into the inner rear wing areas and aim pretty accurately to perform this satisfactorily. Leave this for 16  / 24 hours before doing the same process, but with a good quality wax rust proofing compound such as Bilt Hamber or Dinitrol, which can come with special lances to help access the difficult to reach areas. If your arches are very good with no sign of corrosion, then just apply the wax rustproofing compound. The warm temperature helps the stuff to penetrate / creep into welded seems. I have also used Supertrol which isn't found regularly, and it is quite thin, but is excellent for this task, as it penetrates any seems where rust can take a hold. Normal wax oil just covers seems, and is too thick to penetrate them, but obviously the hotter the day, the better the substance flows.
It's a messy job, and the car smells of it for a week or so, but its well worth while. I started doing it on Cavaliers I owned in the 90's which used to suffer with the same problem of rusty arches, and rust in the arches on cars I treated was never a problem, and my three Omega Elites have since had this treatment. They all live outside, and the wheelarches are all totally rust free.
Of course, the application can be applied to any crevice where rust is normally a problem, but avoid spraying it on any rubber items as it can make them deteriorate prematurely.
This treatment will also help to hold off any corrosion from repaired arches.
This subject may have been covered before, but seeing this topic made me think about sharing this for the benefit  of others. After all, Omegas will never be made again, so look after your prized possession!

1979
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: NCDC2013 or 2015
« on: 26 February 2013, 23:32:42 »
Right, I think I've got it now! Took a bit of figuring out, but thanks to Twiglet and The Boy for the answers that made it a little clearer! The tax and MOT actually run out on the 3.2 saloon at the end of March - probably take it for it Mot in the next few days, see how it goes on which might influence what I do with it. It'll fail at the moment, but it seems a shame to scrap it, but then again, I've 5 Omegas at the moment, which is a little OCD.....

1980
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: NCDC2013 or 2015
« on: 26 February 2013, 11:59:15 »
'This ring must all be present and correct. To change the ring's config, eg remove a device from it, or replace a device, needs to go through a depair/reconfigure/repair process.'

OK thanks, so if I was to try and fit the 2015 and the CID only (I'm not that bothered about the telematics system) to my car which has currently got a 2013 and a GID, assuming that all was correctly de-paired prior to removal, would the two work Ok on their own without the telematics? Is all the wiring loom on both cars the same or is any additional wiring required tucked away, or would I have to alter any of it or add to the existing wiring?
I'm just trying to decide whether the job is relatively straightforward to a 'novice', or whether I should just stick with a replacement 2013 for simplicity.
Decisions decisions.....

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