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241

Omega General Help / Re: Thermostat info

« on: 28 December 2009, 17:28:54 »

Has anybody tried putting an in line hose thermostat on a V6 if the existing thermo is failed open. Would be simple to do but would it work
Ron

Would this work?

I doubt it. The standard thermostat is in the heart of the engine and is exposed to the coolant being pumped around inside the engine. When it is half open some water goes to the rad and some back to the block. When it is fully open the port to the block is closed and all the flow goes to the radiator.

An external one wouldn't know when the engine was hot because it would be in a cold pipe away from the heat source.

Thanks. Is it possible to just replace the stat and not the housing?

The stat insert is a bayonet fit into the housing so in theory you can change just the insert. In practice the stat closes against the alloy housing and wears a groove which is the cause of slow warm-up as cold coolant is able to bypass the stat. Likely to cost more in wasted fuel than a complete housing assy.

242

Omega General Help / Re: Thermostat info

« on: 10 December 2009, 12:56:56 »

You replace the thermostat housing complete with insert, dont try to swap just the insert. New one should come complete with O ring seal and you will need two new O rings for the extension pipe.
The thermostat housing was modified on later engines (and most new spares) to have a thicker flange and so uses longer bolts, you might want to order these at the same time just in case.
5litres of pink antifreeze needed to complete the jub.

243

Omega General Help / Re: Project Gamble - Update and issues

« on: 27 December 2009, 19:47:35 »

Keep an eye on the water hoses, if its had oil in it for a while then the hoses go soft and can burst without warning. Top hose and the one from head to HBV seem particularly vulnerable for some reason.

244

Omega General Help / Re: AirCon pump Change

« on: 21 December 2009, 12:09:05 »

Not a bad job for skin loss but can fray the temper a bit, especially when trying to see if the O ring is in place properly...the engine mount is in the way.
Biggest gripe is that the whole area is usually caked in old oil from camcover leaks etc, with the pump off you get a chance to clean things up a bit.

What is the fault with the old pump?

245

Omega General Help / Re: AirCon pump Change

« on: 21 December 2009, 11:14:43 »

Done this a few times without problems, but I remove the bagpipes and sec.air pipes first so the pump comes out upwards.

Just move the main engine loom / power steering pipe etc until you can see the bolt fixing pipes to the pump from above, 13mm socket plus all of your extensions and loosen but dont completely remove. Go underneath and remove with fingers, push pipes clear then take pump out forwards. You have to rotate it as it comes out to let the oil filler plug miss the bracket.
Make a mental note of the twists and turns as it comes out to make replacement easier.
Engage the pipe bracket and O ring from underneath, fit the bolt then go back up top to tighten it up.

246

Omega General Help / Re: non-starting + possible backfire via inlet?

« on: 19 December 2009, 21:15:52 »

James, the V6 fuel pump wont run until a good signal is seen from the crank sensor (on the 4-cyl it runs for a second on ignition-on but not the V6).
Try with a fully charged battery and some fuel but if still no good, swap the crank sensor.

247

Omega General Help / Re: Bamn and Dlast (trying not to swear)

« on: 15 December 2009, 20:24:09 »

There seems to be a layer of oil under the radiator (hence the cam seal change, although I did have the timing belt done at the same time to save a bit of labour expense) almost as though it's being squirted their under pressure. If I park on a non oiled bit of road (or car park) it always seems to drip from the front of the car.

When the rockers were done I did tell the garage to use genuine ones (of course whether they did is anyones guess)

Could be the oil pressure switch (just to left of bottom pulley) or the crankshaft front seal.
A good clean with gunk then watch where the oil gathers or appears from.

248

Omega General Help / Re: Yet another heater problem.

« on: 03 December 2009, 16:00:26 »

Hi
As Abiton says, what you are looking for is no vacuum at the HBV which equates to full water flow to the heater.  Vacuum at the HBV means NO water flow to the heater!
Alan

You are right. I was thinking back to a heater blowing hot in summer but only when accelerating.

Top pipe hot, bottom one cold indicates no water flow through the matrix.
Pull the vac pipe off the HBV and see if you have full vacuum, I suspect little or none.
Check the vac pipes are all in their propper connections (see guide).
Trace the pipe back along its route from HBV to the vac tank above the pollen filter, you are looking for wear or damage to the pipe, especially where it passes through the wall of the heater intake plennum.
Check the non-return valve on the heater vac tank is working.

249

Omega General Help / Re: Yet another heater problem.

« on: 03 December 2009, 13:09:12 »

Top pipe hot, bottom one cold indicates no water flow through the matrix.
Pull the vac pipe off the HBV and see if you have full vacuum, I suspect little or none.
Check the vac pipes are all in their propper connections (see guide).
Trace the pipe back along its route from HBV to the vac tank above the pollen filter, you are looking for wear or damage to the pipe, especially where it passes through the wall of the heater intake plennum.
Check the non-return valve on the heater vac tank is working.

250

Omega General Help / Re: brake light switch

« on: 11 December 2009, 16:32:45 »

Handbrake on, slip it into N. That way there is no flash of reversing lights to frighten the driver behind as you go from P to D.

251

Omega General Help / Re: brake light switch

« on: 11 December 2009, 15:11:02 »

Look at this guide, I put some photos of the brake light switch in there with a few words on fitting them:
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1218634381

Make sure the stealer gets you a switch with four contacts and dont be tempted to push in the plunger until it is fitted.

252

Omega General Help / Re: Camshaft locking tool

« on: 11 December 2009, 16:27:28 »

PM sent

253

Omega General Help / Re: Diff seals question

« on: 10 December 2009, 13:04:25 »

The sensors are sealed so a bit of oil should not affect them....likely to be a different problem.
Replacement of pinion seal is in the guide.
Drive shaft seals are easier:
Unbolt and remove abs sensor (for protection)
Unbolt driveshaft from hub
Lever driveshaft out of diff with prybar / large screwdriver.
Clean up the mess then lever out old seal and press in the new one (either tap it in a bit at a time, working round the outside with a soft drift or find a suitable tube to drift it in)
Refit driveshaft etc and top-up the diff.

254

Omega General Help / Re: Squeaky Air Con Compressor!

« on: 17 November 2009, 23:07:56 »

The centre bolt is not fully tightened on some types of compressor used on Omegas. The clutch drive plate is a press fit onto the shaft, the nut is a thread lock type, you use a special puller to press the plate onto the shaft until you get the correct clutch clearance (0.6mm??) then the nut is tightened to a lowish torque.
Other types (Delco?) use shims behind the drive plate and as these arnt such a tight fit on the shaft the nut is fully tightened.

255

Omega General Help / Re: Squeaky Air Con Compressor!

« on: 17 November 2009, 13:34:16 »

Dont squirt WD around the clutch and pulley area, there are friction linings in there!!

The squeek could be either the friction lining rubbing against the pulley due to clutch drag or the bearings supporting the pulley are worn. If there is play in the pulley then new bearings are needed. It means the compressor has to come out to get the space for the special puller. A/c specialist should be able to fix it.

The clutch is turning slowly because there is some drag in the clutch plate, if you are out of refrigerant then the clutch wont have engaged for some time and there is likely to be a build-up of fine rust / crud on the clutch plate which causes the drag.
Get the a/c leak checked and if OK refilled.