Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

31

Omega General Help / Re: Coolant spurt lhs rear below coolant bridge/ dist

« on: 12 October 2010, 09:23:01 »

Do you know where I can obtain a detailed view of the rear of the engine without the hindrance of the wiring harnesses?

While not ideal (and for the Catera) I find that GMPartsGiant has some useful diagrams.

32

Omega General Help / Heater question/possible leak

« on: 28 October 2010, 19:53:55 »

Driving home tonight I did 20 of the 25 miles then got stuck in a huge jam on the M4, we crawled along at 5-10mph. About 1/2 a mile from getting off the aircon which had been set at 20c suddenly started to blow colder, the outside temp guage appeared to move from 18c to 19.5c. I upped the temp but it didn't seem to have much effect until just before max upon which it blew hot.

What I noticed but may have been in my mind was the heat felt humid, also i'm sure I got a smell of hot water/anti-freeze.

Didn't overheat, no loss of coolant warning, oh and I did think the PAS felt sluggish when I parked. Too dark to have a look but can anyone suggest where to start looking tomorrow?

33

Omega General Help / Re: 2000 Omega 2.5 V6 CDX Speedo issue

« on: 12 October 2010, 14:05:29 »

well tomorrow i am going to get the car into the workshop and get the wheel off and check & clean the sensor hopefully that will sort it

Just for info the sensor is actually bolted into the diff casing so you dont need the wheel off, when I cleaned mine I just reversed it up a pair of ramps.

34

Omega General Help / Re: Recaro Seats in Omega

« on: 11 October 2010, 11:12:23 »

Humbucker has a set for sale here (assuming not sold) http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1285141398

It also has pics, so at least you can get a feel for whats available.

35

Omega General Help / Re: Very sick migy

« on: 06 October 2010, 10:42:22 »

Yes you have to take the scuttle off and approach the dis pack from above, it's slightly offset to the passenger side. Once the scuttle is off you should be able to see the plug leads, make note of which goes where then pull them all off and you will just be able to see it.

There are 4 bolts, feel around until you are happy of the locations then go in with a 1/4 drive socket on an extension. Once the bolts are out and connector off it's a bit of a squeeze getting the pack out but it will come through the gap.

On mine you could see the rust starting to push the 2 halves apart.

There is a how to in the maintenance guide.

36

Omega General Help / Re: Exhaust?

« on: 06 October 2010, 16:20:32 »

That sounds like a cat replacement, they seem to sell for around £50-£70 secondhand.

You could go to an exhaust specialist and get them to cut the section out and weld a new bit in, I had that done on my center box where the it broke at the seam, cost me 50 quid. The only thing i'd check, if it's the downpipe will it be under more stress than a section further back and will the weld hold.

Edit:I got mine welded because the cat to centre box bolts were rusted solid and a repair was cheaper than the estimated cost to retap/bolt it.

37

Omega General Help / Re: Found a place with cheap Omega bits

« on: 23 September 2010, 18:35:34 »

I bought my front B4s from them, 48+vat on the website, went to the store 43+vat. They get my vote on the one time i've used them, only pita is that the store wont get parts in from the hub without prepayment at the counter.

38

Omega General Help / Re: OEM brake pads - Brake dust

« on: 25 September 2010, 11:26:23 »

Same here, my TC pads drop huge amounts of dust. As i'm still running the old elite 16" wheels I just dont bother to clean them as I know I can buy a new set cheap if needed 

39

Omega General Help / Re: Just been quoted over £500.00 for an exhaust

« on: 25 September 2010, 13:01:36 »

That's crazy money, but I partly understand why. My local fast fit place put his price up from 185 to 280 over the space of a year, when I asked why he said that some installs are taking a lot longer than planned for because of rusted bolts and needing to retap the cats.

On the flip side 500 is taking the pi$$ as my local Powerflow guy only quoted me 485 for a full custom stainless system.

40

Omega General Help / Re: re coil pack on 2.5 v6 elite 2000 w

« on: 19 September 2010, 10:42:52 »

You're not the only one, when I did mine I had to take the plenum and scuttle off. I can barely reach my HBV to touch let alone the coil pack.

41

Omega General Help / Re: Will FL headlights fit a MFL?

« on: 20 September 2010, 15:48:49 »

Maybe i'll keep them for a FL front end conversion  (which is not as silly as it sounds as I need to get a new front bumper/bonnet at some point due to some peon dinging it)

42

Omega General Help / Re: Will FL headlights fit a MFL?

« on: 20 September 2010, 14:05:38 »

Ahh so the wing is different, I assumed the problem would be with the bonnet fit.

Thank you

43

Omega General Help / Will FL headlights fit a MFL?

« on: 20 September 2010, 13:43:28 »

For a while now i've been considering rubbing down the headlights on my MFL as they are very discoloured. When I looked at my scrapper FL the lights are a lot better condition, so I started to look at them side by side and thought the FL ones might have a more extended top 'lip'. Without unnecessary stripping down does anyone know if they will fit and look OK?

44

Omega General Help / Re: Changing front coils springs

« on: 20 September 2010, 12:43:57 »

I'm no good at guides but it's a breeze.

Things to note though.
You need to remove the shock so take note of the camber settings first as per Chris's guide http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1283955011
Unbolt the drop link from the ARB, leave the upper bolt until you have the shock out.
Now the bit that worked for me, leave the pads in place and remove the upper caliper bolt only. This gives enough clearance to get to the strut bolts, you then just need to support the disc (I used my trolley jack).
Finally remove the upper bolt and away (or do that first, I forget which way round I did it)
On refitting make sure you have a crows foot spanner for the top bolt, I did mine up with a regular spanner but it's a real pain.
Then off to WIM for an alignment check.

What might be worth consideration is do you need any other parts replacing while you are there, drop links, wishbones or even the struts. If you are paying for alignment might as well do all the work in one go.

45

Omega General Help / Re: broken locking wheel nut

« on: 17 September 2010, 14:35:01 »

Oh, and all Vauxhall locking bolts are shit.  They are just about OK if used properly, and regularly retorqued, but that rarely happens.

I'll second that, i've just binned an old and a new set. The new set were the better of the two but the pin holes were becoming oval, the old set were plain horrible with it becoming difficult to get the locker in over the spinning collar.

I now have regular bolts only