Welcome to OOF
Looking to buy a 2nd hand box to replace the worn one. Are they all the same on V6 cars, facelift/ prefacelift?
Does anyone know if the V6 thermostat tubes are all the same size across the V6 range?
I know the 2.5 and 3.0 have a different part number to the 2.6 and 3.2 but are they the same?
Adjusting the box is easy if you've just done all that lot.
But MUST be done with steering box and column aligned together correctly, and dead ahead. Or it will go horribly wrong. But if aligned then the tightest point of adjustment can be felt on the torx screw with wheels off the floor while moving the steering.
At that point, back it of a tiiiiiiiny fraction and do up the lock nut. Seemples.
Could this be due wrong PAS fluid? Someone has used DEX3 in the past?
I did say should
Lol,
Does that mean I have some sort of intermediate 3.2 using the older set up?
Just done the timing belt and water pump on my 2001 3.2 MV6.
Hired the locking kit and also already had the Omega V6 Cambelt dvd from when I did my Vectra V6.
I used a Gates powergrip kit.
When you start off and your timed up, you line up the two white lines on the belt with the TDC crank mark then use the wedge to stop the belt moving.
But no way could I get the 4 x cam white lines on the belt to line up with cam markings! Why is this? wrong belt?
Also on the Dvd after the belt is fitted, the idlers are set to 12 oclock and 3 oclock, and the tensioner tensioned.
You turn the engine over until up to TDC again, check the timing and then adjust bank 3+4 with the bottom idler and 1+2 with the top idler.
The DVD shows the crank lock tool fitted only when adjusting both banks and what I found was after adjusting bank 3+4 you must fit the cam locking tool on that bank before adjusting 1+2 otherwise when you do adjust 1+2 it also moves 3+4.
Any info on this?
The car is back together again and runs sweet
Sounds much more awkward than removing the box from a right hand drive car. Are you SURE yours is fitted on the correct side?
Abs bleeding is defo tech 2 job. Can it be moved aside with carefull pressure on the metal brake lines....?
I remember removing servo just to give room, and that the brake light switch broke on removal. Vey easy done as the tangs snap off. Best to have a spare if possible.
But all on a right hand drive obviously.
I have no yet even seen the brake light switch, where is it? By the pedal? No? On the ABS box?
If i disconnect the ABS box will it get air in it? E.g. when renewing brake lines you open connections and can replace the pipes without any issues, how will this change when ABS box is out? Of course it will be emptied but still, as long as the pump does not run I can not see air getting inside?
Switch is up behind the pedals. If removing servo, it has to be disconnected from the pedals which means disturbing the switch.
As Marks post, see if you can move the pump out the way WITHOUT removing brake lines from the pump. No need for tech2 then.
But if brake lines removed ther WILL be air in the system. If air is pre abs pump it will need bleeding.
You should be able to ease the ABS unit up quite a bit with the pipes still attached thus avoiding having to bleed the setup after.
Sounds much more awkward than removing the box from a right hand drive car. Are you SURE yours is fitted on the correct side?
Abs bleeding is defo tech 2 job. Can it be moved aside with carefull pressure on the metal brake lines....?
I remember removing servo just to give room, and that the brake light switch broke on removal. Vey easy done as the tangs snap off. Best to have a spare if possible.
But all on a right hand drive obviously.
