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Messages - V6 CDX-er

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31
Omega General Help / Re: front disc renewal
« on: 04 March 2011, 21:29:10 »
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Always re used, never thread locked as they are always stiff from factory thread lock and corossion. Ime they are a right bugger to undo, and stiff to do up.

.... These are caliper carrier to hub stub axle, right?

Same here too - no problems ever encountered either! ;)


I also re-used the original bolts as mine looked to be in pretty good condition.

However, if the threads or bolt head looked a bit suspect then I would replace them.

In order to make removing the old thread-lock a little easier I soaked my bolts in boiling hot water for five minutes before giving them a rub with a wire brush. Loctite was used upon re-fitting.

32
Omega General Help / Re: Front lower wishbone fitting.
« on: 05 March 2011, 12:38:49 »
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Disconnect BOTH drop-links before you start on the wishbones themselves ;)

The droplinks on mine had to be cut off as they were absolutely solid! Fortunately we were doing the whole front end so it mattered not.

Been there meself! >:(


Oh joy! I'll be looking forward to that job then?  :(

33
Omega General Help / Re: Front lower wishbone fitting.
« on: 05 March 2011, 00:43:39 »
Mission failed!

Dam bolts must have been torqued up to twenty seven billionty lb/ft.

Drenched in doubleT and will have another crack at them tomorrow. Simply cant be bothered with it tonight, after finally getting to sleep last night at 07:20 this morning, (teething baby).

Getting to sleep at 07:20 isn't really all that bad I guess, unless you have to get up for work at 07:45  :(

34
Omega General Help / Front lower wishbone fitting.
« on: 04 March 2011, 21:31:30 »
I'm going to go outside into the cold, (again  >:( ) and replace my front lower wishbones after I've finished dinner.

I just wondered if any of you chaps had any last minutes tips or advice to kindly offer before I get started? (and not eating yellow snow doesn't count).

35
Omega General Help / Re: front tyres wearing on inside?
« on: 02 March 2011, 16:09:28 »
I've just bought some front lower wishbones, complete with bushes.

Vauxhall were wanting £96 for the bushes only. Unipart, wishbones and bushes came to £76 inc VAT. Just need to get them fitted this weekend.


So, this WIM place? Where is it? And if it's miles away from me, is there anyone in the South Yorkshire / North Derbyshire area who is any good for full geo?

36
Omega General Help / Re: omega boot release
« on: 22 February 2011, 21:36:44 »
Dam Tunnie beat me to it by a minute. :(

37
Omega General Help / Re: omega boot release
« on: 22 February 2011, 21:36:02 »
With the engine running (and maybe the vehicle in park with handbrake on?), you need to hold down the button on the dash untill the boot opens. I cant remember if it is for 3 seconds or five?

How long are you holding the button down for?

38
Omega General Help / Re: Paper element/spin-on oil filters
« on: 26 February 2011, 10:47:32 »
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I had some quite serious problems removing my old canister filter with the cap splitting in two. I tried allsorts before getting the angle grinder on it.

I simply cannot see any way in which the filter could be removed from above?  :-?

As for problems with reliability upon doing the conversion, I cant see oil flow or oil pressure being an issue. The only problem that I can foresee is if studlock isn't used to secure the threaded bar that the spin-on filter attatches to?

A quick couple of word of advice;

Using an oil filter canister cap removal tool will likely make removing the canister cap a lot easier. Something like this; http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/facom-oil-filter-cap-sockets

You'll also need a 12mm hex drive to remove the canister from the block.

There are two different types of spin-on filter available from Vauxhall. A white shorter one, and a grey longer one. DO NOT USE THE WHITE ONE. IT WILL POP OFF RESULTING IN YOU LOOSING ALL OIL.
And try not to spill too much oil, (or any at all really), on the crank sensor. If you do, remove it gently and give it a clean.


HTH?

??  Why will it pop off if its fitted correctly? :-?


Because the shorter white filter cannot withstand the same oil pressure as the longer grey filter.

It lasted about 40 seconds on mine.

39
Omega General Help / Re: Paper element/spin-on oil filters
« on: 25 February 2011, 14:12:31 »
I had some quite serious problems removing my old canister filter with the cap splitting in two. I tried allsorts before getting the angle grinder on it.

I simply cannot see any way in which the filter could be removed from above?  :-?

As for problems with reliability upon doing the conversion, I cant see oil flow or oil pressure being an issue. The only problem that I can foresee is if studlock isn't used to secure the threaded bar that the spin-on filter attatches to?

A quick couple of word of advice;

Using an oil filter canister cap removal tool will likely make removing the canister cap a lot easier. Something like this; http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/facom-oil-filter-cap-sockets

You'll also need a 12mm hex drive to remove the canister from the block.

There are two different types of spin-on filter available from Vauxhall. A white shorter one, and a grey longer one. DO NOT USE THE WHITE ONE. IT WILL POP OFF RESULTING IN YOU LOOSING ALL OIL.

And try not to spill too much oil, (or any at all really), on the crank sensor. If you do, remove it gently and give it a clean.


HTH?

40
Omega General Help / Re: Started doing oil cooler, is this normal.
« on: 25 February 2011, 23:38:14 »
My header tank 'seemed' to have taken the worst of it.

41
Omega General Help / Re: Help
« on: 25 February 2011, 14:14:51 »
Vauxhall is the UK brand for Opel.

Cant help with the part number.



And bloody hell. Liberia?  :o

42
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andy .. stick your location in your profile .... might be someone near you who can assist/teach/hold your hand while the job is done .. :)


I'd be willing to pop round if you are local to me.

Honestly, I'm crap with cars, but the job does seem worse reading about it than actually doing it.

I reckon first time, for a novice, you'd be looking at 3 hours tops to do all six plugs.

43
Mines a facelift 2.6, so I don't know how different they are in terms of under bonnet layout, therefore this info may not be 100% accurate.

Undo the jubilee clips that hold the 90 degree rubber pipes from the bagpipes to the throttle body. These could be 8mm, 10mm, an imperial size, who knows?

Unclip plastic connector that attaches to the underside of the throttle body, along with the jubilee or 'R' clips that hold on the two small bore coolant pipes. If they are 'R' clips then I would advise getting an proper 'R' clip pliers.

Plenum off;

Remove the four pipes that connect to the back of the plenum via the black plastic breather.

On the passanger side is a black hose. I cant remember if you need a 17mm or a 19mm open ended spanner to get this off.

Small flat bladed screwdriver to prise off the four plastic clips. Then an E10 or maybe E12 female Torx socket to undo the four bolts that hold the plenum to the intake trumpet.

Gently lift up plenum and remove any further pipes that may still be attatched, (such as the thin vaceum pipes)

Phones ringing, got to go. I'm sure someone else will finish off the rest. sorry.

44
Omega General Help / Re: Oil cooler leaking
« on: 24 February 2011, 22:59:06 »
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don't drive it with an oil cooler leaking, its a bitch to get that oil flushed out of the coolant system  :y


Probably to late I am afraid, the coolant bottle is very brown, the coolant looks awful.
The possible saving grace is I have plenty of free Vauxhall anti freeze to play with/flush it.

Don't waste anti-freeze on it (even if it is free!) it will need to be flushed at least 20 times, water should do it. There are various methods for aiding in breaking the oil down, from dish washer powder to bleach, but use in tiny amounts!  :)


Fair enough, we don't have a dishwasher but any idea how much to use per flush.

Thanks


Simular problem for me last week.

I tried Bold / Aireal / Daz etc in the header tank, (after I had removed it), but it failed to shift much of the muck. The problem with the header tank is that it is split into three compartments, and you can only get a brush into one of them.

In the end I got a new header tank from VX (£26) and a bottle of Wynns coolant flush. That Wynns stuff is pretty good. Took five flushes with fresh water and there was still some of it in the system.

As for the oil cooler / gaskets / nuts / sealant etc, I got all of those from VX for around £150 for everything.

Not that bad a job to do. The worst bits are spending ages flushing your coolant system and ages cleaning the mating surfaces for the black plastic intake flange.

45
Omega General Help / Re: A bit of an odd brake problem.
« on: 24 February 2011, 22:04:30 »
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I managed to do exactly the same when I'd worked on my rear brakes :-[ :-[

Luckily I have the gear to make a replacement pipe

I bought myself 25 metres of copper brake line today and will pick up a cutting and flaring tool tomorrow.

How hard / tricky is the job? Any tips LD?

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