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Messages - Kevin Wood

35101
General Discussion Area / Re: How many miles....
« on: 12 April 2007, 10:57:26 »
Quote
Doing a steady 52mph all the way!!

Eeek! Probably spent more on caffeine trying to stay awake I guess!

It was painful enough trying to keep the speed down for 120 miles of towing on tuesday.

Kevin

35102
General Discussion Area / Re: Cheaper V6 Locking Kit..
« on: 12 April 2007, 21:03:22 »
Ahh, OK. Thanks.

I was thinking that the shaft had to be offset at a tangent (not 90 degrees) to the ring IYSWIM.  ::)

Kevin



35103
General Discussion Area / Re: Cheaper V6 Locking Kit..
« on: 12 April 2007, 11:02:56 »
Quote
and that is where I went wrong by buying a combination spanner that was only cranked.  cry  

Forgive me for being dumb but but does anyone have a picture of such a spanner. I'm having problems visualising a cranked, offset spanner. This is to adjust the idler pullies while you have an allen key on the locking bolt, I assume?

Kevin

35104
General Discussion Area / Re: Help Me Out Folks in my search...
« on: 12 April 2007, 10:51:22 »
Maximum weight of an unbraked trailer is 750Kg by law, or as specified by vehicle manufacturer if less IIRC. Above that the trailer needs to be braked.

The max weight of a braked trailer depends on the towing vehicle. Hadn't thought of looking to see if it's placarded on the vehicle itself. It's not mentioned in the manual but around 1600 - 1700 Kg for a V6 Omega from what I've gleaned. The max weights seem to track engine power, suggesting the requirement to pull away safely on a gradient is the limiting factor.

My tow bar is here: http://stores.channeladvisor.com/towbar/Items/314266?

Not desperately cheap but a good bit of kit. Very easy to attach and detach the swan neck and it's little more than it would cost to tax an additional tow car for a year let alone MOT, insure, service, etc.

Fitting was straightforward. Rear bumper has to come off (8 screws) then you need to drill 9 holes for the mounting bolts and 1 for the electrical connection. These were already marked out on the boot floor. Remove sound deadening tar like material from part of the boot floor (hot air paint stripper softens this up nicely) and fit bracing member to boot floor, offer up tow bar to rear of car and bolt the two together then there are 2 bolts between front of bracing member and rear crossmember by the diff. I hammerited all the holes before final fitting to stop rust and gave it all a good spray with waxoyl.

Electrics are easy. There's a connector with all required signals behind the panelling at the rear of the boot and I had to install a jumper to bypass the trailer brake light failure sensor socket, which was a pain to find on my facelift.

Fitting instructions can be downloaded above.

Cheers,

Kevin

35105
General Discussion Area / Re: Help Me Out Folks in my search...
« on: 11 April 2007, 23:38:51 »
Quote
Is the tow car your MV6 Kevin and is the tow bar detachable? I presume its still nice looking  Wink

Mine is Elite Pete's old one. It's a Westfalia removable bar and you wouldn't know it was there unless you really got underneath and had a look.

It does require a little of the return edge of the rear bumper to be cut away but only right at the back edge so it's not visible from the road. I followed EPs recommendation and just cut what was required to access the towbar rather than chopping out the huge section they indicate in the instructions. The only part that's even slightly visible is the connector for the electrics and TBH that could be relocated with little effort. The rest of the towbar that remains on the car is above the level of the bottom of the bumper so not visible.

You also have to put up with the bracing panel on the boot floor which makes the boot floor a little uneven but not really a big issue.

I fitted the tow bar myself and did it easily in an afternoon. That was really taking my time, hammeriting all the holes, cleaning up the muck behind the bumper, applying Waxoyl, connecting up the electrics, etc.

Cheers,

Kevin



35106
General Discussion Area / Re: Help Me Out Folks in my search...
« on: 11 April 2007, 23:07:27 »
Had my first taste of Omega towing yesterday. What a breeze! Load in question was my glider in its' trailer. Got to be the best part of 30 feet long with a single axle. God knows what it weighs but the bloke who built the trailer didn't intend it to fall apart in a hurry!

Took it from Challock in Kent down M20/M26/M25/A3 to Lasham in Hampshire. I'd previously towed it behind a Mk 1 Laguna and it used to give me the odd "moment" when it didn't feel too stable when lorries were passing and the like, and with only 100 BHP the hills and pulling away were not fun!

With the Omega just set the cruise control to 60 and it purred along at a shade over 2000 RPM in fourth, slipping into third for the hills. Absolutely stable. When pulling away from lights it was easy to forget you were towing. Probably accelerated as well as my Laguna did without a trailer!

Fuel consumption for the run was 25 MPG versus 33 unloaded on the outward journey.

I kept wondering how it would like the hill around Guildford on the A3 - until I realised I was half way up it and hadn't noticed!

You're right. These cars do seem to make mincemeat of towing!

Kevin



35107
The other aspect to be taken under consideration is the number of cold starts versus the number of times the oil gets up to full working temperature for a few hours at a time. Every cold start dilutes the oil with fuel, combustion products (acids) and water. The oil needs to get very hot for a period of time to boil off these contaminants. So an engine that's done 5 hours on the motorway is much more healthy than an engine that's done 5 hours of school run!

Cars with service indicators apparently take this sort of thing into consideration - but are still biased to please the fleet manager.

Kevin

35108
Manufacturers recommendations are a toss up between giving the vehicle a reasonable lifetime and keeping fleet managers happy with regard to running costs. Fleet managers and manufacturers don't give a damn what happens to a car after 3 years or so, so you can draw your own conclusions from that.

For the cost of a DIY oil change I'd never leave oil in an engine for 20k. This is the stuff that blocked breathers and leaky cam covers are made of.

When they changed the interval to 20k did they redesign the engine range? No. They just decided to sacrifice some longevity under pressure from fleet managers to reduce servicing cost.

Kevin

35109
General Discussion Area / Re: BMW tow bar-advice requested
« on: 09 April 2007, 00:18:41 »
Having read the thread again I suspect 500 miles might be pushing it but who's to say how far it is "reasonable" to travel to an MOT?

Looks a nice tidy car and getting pretty rare on the road these days. Have fun!

Kevin

35110
General Discussion Area / Re: BMW tow bar-advice requested
« on: 08 April 2007, 20:07:37 »
... Or book an MOT half way between the car and home. You are allowed to drive it to and from a pre-booked MOT after all.  :y

Kevin

35111
General Discussion Area / Re: BMW tow bar-advice requested
« on: 07 April 2007, 22:48:18 »
I think they must be available because if you're towing with one of the newer hitches which stabilises the combination by gripping the ball, the ball is a wear item and the assembly must be replaced when the ball wears below a specified diameter.

As to the cost ....  :-?

I'd check that you're within the max towing weight if you're putting the car on a trailer.

Kevin

35112
General Discussion Area / Re: Project Elite - more progress
« on: 08 April 2007, 23:03:18 »
Quote
When I stripped mine (turns out you can't change just the bearings, and new drum required), I was very, very drunk when I put it all back together. So thats my advice....

I'm on it ;-)

Last time I did one was when I was at university. Got given an old machine with knackered bearings. Didn't have one in our student dive so whacked in some new bearings and job's a good'un. The machine had a bearing carrier at the back of the drum which just unbolted, drift out old bearings, install new, bolt on carrier.

This one's got a nasty plastic outer drum with the bearings drifted into a metal insert moulded into the drum, larger bearing on the inside, so it's never going to happen without removing the drum and splitting the two halves. It'll probably leak like a knackered HBV once it's back together  >:(

Kevin

35113
General Discussion Area / Re: Project Elite - more progress
« on: 08 April 2007, 22:35:19 »
I've just spent 2 hours trying to get to the drum bearings on SWMBOs washing machine... and I've made nowhere near as much progress as James. Looks like a total stripdown and I've got that horrible feeling that it's never going to work again creeping up on me.

That'll either be because I can't remember how it all went together or because sammy sledgehammer is embedded in it!

Kevin

35114
General Discussion Area / Re: Project TB2 - Update 4
« on: 07 April 2007, 23:06:47 »
Quote
Whats your view on my viscous? Donald D'd?

I don't think you'd get the symptoms you are with a bad viscous fan. Once the car is moving you should have plenty of airflow through the radiator to cool the engine. Failure of the fan would give you overheating in traffic only. With the electric fans running there'd be no issue at all.

My Westfield has a radiator from a 1 litre Polo and this cools a tuned 2 litre 16v engine quite happily above an average speed of 30 MPH or so without the fan running.

I reckon you're not getting enough coolant flow for some reason.

However, I take it the bubbles in the expansion tank have been proven not to be exhaust gases?

Kevin


35115
General Discussion Area / Re: Project TB2 - Update 3
« on: 07 April 2007, 00:50:27 »
Regarding fan temperatures the coolant in an engine has a higher boiling point than normal due to the pressure it is under and the antifreeze, which raises the boiling point. It's not unusual for fan switches to be over boiling point. Generally the system needs to reach 110-120 deg c before it'll boil over IME.

Also, thinking about coolant temperature sensors I'm not sure what tractors do during warm up. They don't have throttles, and ingest air at the maximum rate under all load conditions, so the mixture is inherently variable. Put more fuel in and it just runs faster. The coolant temperature sensor probably just controls the duration of the glow plug warm-up, unless the air intake has a choke valve to allow it to enrich the mixture?

Kevin

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