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Shoot me down in flames if I'm wrong, but isn't the Saab based on a Vectra floorpan and mechanicals?I think that's only the 9-3. The old 9000 only had a few GM bits, like the auto tranny where the o/d would eat through the end of the casing and come out the n/s wheel well. :-?
To be honest, the Omega is well enough balanced so that the LSD does very litle unless its mega slippy...And that's when I wouldn't want one! I don't miss it.
The question is your price range. For the price of a cheap Omega, you are not going to get a reliable turbo sedan. They can be death by a thousand paper cuts more than even a bad Omega. All of the rubber hoses go brittle due to the higher engine bay temps, manifolds crack, exhaust studs go, and on and on. However, there are several options; Sierra, Audi, Volvo, etc.
Hi TBAFAIK the ignition needs to be on for all Tech2 type work.
Question :
Would tech2 when used to test gearbox ecu, provide suffcient power to energise the solonoids. Or does it provide a switching voltage, which it then tracks.
Or
The ignition needs to be on, and or the engine running. Your reply would save the trawl of the book of lies.
Hi again guys - thanks so much for all the replies.Dealer gave me the wrong one first time. PITA. My advice, take the current sensor out ASAP and get a ride to the stealers. Keeps you from driving the car, and makes sure that you get the right one!
Confirmed by paperclip test - code 19 = Crank Sensor.
Didn't realise it was such a bugger to get to so will check which type I have over weekend and get her all fixed up early next week. Dealer recommends the square type with the pins all the way up to the shrouding but worth checking one suspects.
Now, to get home from work safely - you're quite right there is no warning at all when she goes, I do consider myself extremely lucky so far!
Thanks again all
PS> How handy is the paperclip test! -Cheers
Can someone please tell me if the levelling servo on facelift model is the same as a pre-facelift model?I've been told that they are not.
Cheers
Both pads and it's the piston, although possibly the other caliper. One pad it's the sliding pins.QuoteQuoteWas the caliper free to slide from side to side?QuoteQuoteHave you pumped the brake pedal down to get the pistons fully against the pads? Were the sliding pins OK, not seized?QuoteYup, file a 45 degree angle on leading edge
They were filed........or machine cut by the looks of it......on leading and trailing edges.........or do they need more of a file :-/
Otherwise, probably just need bedding in.
Not quite sure what you mean........undid the 13mm bolt and lifted the caliper up to change the pads.....replaced the bolt as supplied with the pads and tightened to 30nM......
Im a bit of numpty........so dunnoit seemed free to me.........but if youve read my other thread....the pads on drivers side were down to metal on metal.....passenger side only a bit less than 50% worn..... :-/
It might be a sticky caliper :-/
Have you pumped the brake pedal down to get the pistons fully against the pads? Were the sliding pins OK, not seized?QuoteYup, file a 45 degree angle on leading edge
They were filed........or machine cut by the looks of it......on leading and trailing edges.........or do they need more of a file :-/
