4501
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4502
Omega General Help / Re: Front tracking
« on: 16 June 2013, 17:13:51 »
I am struggling. I am not into photobucket. I right clicked the quote by your last photo and got enticing invitations, but I am still not able to post photos. Further help needed! Wife is out, she may know.
4503
Omega General Help / Re: Front tracking
« on: 16 June 2013, 16:43:10 »
Please advise how I attach a photograph
4504
Omega General Help / Re: Front tracking
« on: 16 June 2013, 10:37:20 »So there's a real danger of bending the arm, and incorrect ride height when measuring/setting. If I understand your post correctly...?
I did not say that.
If you think my method dangerous and ineffective, I should not use it.
When you next change a wishbone, you might jack up the wheel and pop an axle stand under it, wheel end, without wood block, and see it it bends.
4505
Omega General Help / Re: Front tracking
« on: 15 June 2013, 22:38:16 »
Let's not have a row about it, but the purpose of the wishbone is to locate the bottom ball joint laterally and fore and aft. Other cars I have had (Minis, Morris 1100s) had separate suspension items to bear those forces. The Mcpherson strut bears the vertical load. The forces on the wishbone are large under braking and when cornering. The wishbone is a strong assembly of pressed steel components, and will come to no harm supported as I described.
4506
Omega General Help / Re: Front tracking
« on: 15 June 2013, 19:23:44 »
Hi Chris,
don't quite understand the question, but I simply jacked up each side in turn, trolley jack plus wood block under the front side jacking point, then lowered it gently on to axle stand plus wood block under wheel end of wishbone. Takes less time to do than describe.
don't quite understand the question, but I simply jacked up each side in turn, trolley jack plus wood block under the front side jacking point, then lowered it gently on to axle stand plus wood block under wheel end of wishbone. Takes less time to do than describe.
4507
Omega General Help / Re: Front tracking
« on: 15 June 2013, 15:18:46 »
Sorry chaps, I have not mastered the quote and editing system
Hi Ex Taxi Al, the pitman arm and the idler arm are two sides of a parallelogram, the other two being the central steering rod and and the chassis. So they should jolly well be parallel.
Hi Chris, obviously the support must be under the wheel end so that the spring bears the load. I think I achieve that the way I support the wishbone.
I did say, you must free both track rods at the outset.
To have the geometry reset at Chesham, I should have to fit new two wishbones, replace or free both front and rear track rods, and the idler arm. Then Chesham man would have to measure and reset front toe in, rear toe in, camber angles both sides and king pin inclinations both sides. I should want to watch him do it, not just accept his computer print out. I have had tyre shops do similar tasks in the past, and all they do is place the front wheels on greased pads, find a track rod that will turn a bit, reset the toe-in and call it a day.
This thread began with OmegaMan2.2 enquiring how he could get his steering wheel straight when the car was going in a straight line. I have told him.
Hi Ex Taxi Al, the pitman arm and the idler arm are two sides of a parallelogram, the other two being the central steering rod and and the chassis. So they should jolly well be parallel.
Hi Chris, obviously the support must be under the wheel end so that the spring bears the load. I think I achieve that the way I support the wishbone.
I did say, you must free both track rods at the outset.
To have the geometry reset at Chesham, I should have to fit new two wishbones, replace or free both front and rear track rods, and the idler arm. Then Chesham man would have to measure and reset front toe in, rear toe in, camber angles both sides and king pin inclinations both sides. I should want to watch him do it, not just accept his computer print out. I have had tyre shops do similar tasks in the past, and all they do is place the front wheels on greased pads, find a track rod that will turn a bit, reset the toe-in and call it a day.
This thread began with OmegaMan2.2 enquiring how he could get his steering wheel straight when the car was going in a straight line. I have told him.
4508
Omega General Help / Re: Front tracking
« on: 15 June 2013, 11:45:59 »
I support the wishbone with an axle stand with a block of top, placed as near the wheel as possible.
I thought the tracks were the same front and back, but if they are not the difference will be trivial compared with the distance front to back.
This is how I used to do it on my motorcycle.
I used to try to adjust new track rods the same length as the old. It did not work. It is extremely critical. The steering is twitchy if is out by half a turn. Adjusting the wheels on the ground does not work because the tyres flex. Doing it jacked up with the suspension hanging down is hopeless. The way I do it works first time, steering is not twitchy, and the steering wheel is central.
I know the power steering is self centring. I presume that unless the steering wheel has been removed and replaced incorrectly with the wheel centred the power steering is also centred.
I thought the tracks were the same front and back, but if they are not the difference will be trivial compared with the distance front to back.
This is how I used to do it on my motorcycle.
I used to try to adjust new track rods the same length as the old. It did not work. It is extremely critical. The steering is twitchy if is out by half a turn. Adjusting the wheels on the ground does not work because the tyres flex. Doing it jacked up with the suspension hanging down is hopeless. The way I do it works first time, steering is not twitchy, and the steering wheel is central.
I know the power steering is self centring. I presume that unless the steering wheel has been removed and replaced incorrectly with the wheel centred the power steering is also centred.
4509
Omega General Help / Re: Front tracking
« on: 15 June 2013, 07:06:31 »
Hi omegaman2.2. I have long suffered wheel not centred after changing track rod ends. I used to adjust toe-in with a home made adjustable length rod but this was not satisfactory. I then found a better way, which has the advantage that it also centres the steering wheel on straight ahead setting. Here it is.
0. Get a long straight plank, as long as the car.
1. Ensure both track rods adjust easily. You may need to take them off the car to do this.
2. Jack front of car up, then place axle stands plus wooden blocks under the ends of the wishbones, lower the front of the car so that is it supported by the axle stands and the front suspension is normally loaded.
3. Set the steering wheel straight.
4. Support a long straight plank so that it touched the rear wheel and front wheels on one side. Adjust that side track rod until it touches both tyres on both sides. Repeat other side of car.
5. Clamp track rod adjusters. Check with plank. When all OK, jack car up, remove axle stands, lower.
6. Take for test drive. Have cuppa. Tell wife how clever you are.
0. Get a long straight plank, as long as the car.
1. Ensure both track rods adjust easily. You may need to take them off the car to do this.
2. Jack front of car up, then place axle stands plus wooden blocks under the ends of the wishbones, lower the front of the car so that is it supported by the axle stands and the front suspension is normally loaded.
3. Set the steering wheel straight.
4. Support a long straight plank so that it touched the rear wheel and front wheels on one side. Adjust that side track rod until it touches both tyres on both sides. Repeat other side of car.
5. Clamp track rod adjusters. Check with plank. When all OK, jack car up, remove axle stands, lower.
6. Take for test drive. Have cuppa. Tell wife how clever you are.
4510
Omega General Help / Re: Outter cv boot
« on: 12 June 2013, 12:51:12 »
There's a drive shaft for sale on e-bay for £11.24 in New Romney, Kent. If you are anywhere near there nip down there and buy it!
4511
Omega General Help / Re: need mechanic
« on: 11 June 2013, 23:05:17 »
Hi Graham, what sympton makes you think you need to change your inlet manifold gasket?
My 2.5 V6 spits a bit on start up and I used to think it was exhaust manifold gasket. But having had two 2 litre Omegas develop cracks in their exhaust manifolds, I fear I have a crack in the right hand exhaust manifold. It seems to be a failing of cast iron exhaust manifolds.
My 2.5 V6 spits a bit on start up and I used to think it was exhaust manifold gasket. But having had two 2 litre Omegas develop cracks in their exhaust manifolds, I fear I have a crack in the right hand exhaust manifold. It seems to be a failing of cast iron exhaust manifolds.
4512
Omega General Help / Re: need mechanic
« on: 11 June 2013, 17:42:31 »
Are you sure you need to change your inlet manifold gasket? I have not changed one in years.
4513
Omega General Help / Re: 3.2 Special Dyno Results
« on: 11 June 2013, 13:12:39 »
My handbook says on p156
"If necessary, a spinning driving wheel is braked. This improves the vehicle's directional control and driving power, particularly on snow and ice as well as on wet or slippery roads."
"If necessary, a spinning driving wheel is braked. This improves the vehicle's directional control and driving power, particularly on snow and ice as well as on wet or slippery roads."
4514
Omega General Help / Re: 3.2 Special Dyno Results
« on: 11 June 2013, 08:38:15 »Do most explods have LSDs? I have had six explod Senators and two explod Omegas and never had an LSD yet. I once had an LSD fitted Peugeot 505 GTI and it was enormous fun on icy roads. I see Omega LSDs sold on e-bay for premium prices. Could it be that certain police forces specified LSDs?LSD diff ratio altering things, what if dyno was setup for standard ratio diff?
We've seen enough ex-plod to know their engines are not modified.
Most have LSD
I was led to believe by my car handbook that traction control would apply rear brakes when wheelspin was detected making LSDs unnecessary, but it does not seem to work that way.
4515
Omega General Help / Re: coolant warning and header tank filling up
« on: 10 June 2013, 08:56:58 »
The level will rise in the header tank as the water expands in the system. When it is cold again it should have fallen to the original level. The level line is labelled KALT.