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61

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Can't get it started..X30XE transplant into Scimitar GTE

« on: 15 September 2012, 13:41:16 »

Just checked - ECU stays lit when cranking...I assume thats not good...

...and if so, will a cheap one (generic ebay) work for a while, or any online sellers who sell the genuine item anyone can point me towards?

62

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Can't get it started..X30XE transplant into Scimitar GTE

« on: 15 September 2012, 13:33:39 »

Just checked - ECU stays lit when cranking...I assume thats not good...

63

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Can't get it started..X30XE transplant into Scimitar GTE

« on: 15 September 2012, 13:17:10 »

Ah...I think the warning light stays lit when cranking....

Not got the Omega tach connected (although might do to prove) and the tacho i have got doesn't move...which does point to the CPS...

64

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Can't get it started..X30XE transplant into Scimitar GTE

« on: 15 September 2012, 11:53:43 »

Surely it wouldnt hurt to force the fuel pump on would it? Any fuel not injected is only sent back to the tank anyway ......... It would help in the elimination process surely?

I did a temporary priming before starting (running for about 10 seconds), the theory being that residual pressure would be enough to make it at least have a go before the pressure subsided?  A quick check of the lines showed fuel was present (and definitely under pressure!)

Is there no way of testing a crank sensor (aside from replacement)?

65

Omega General Help / Re: Gear Change Difficult - 24V-V6-2.5-Manual

« on: 14 September 2012, 15:51:55 »

Is it ok to clean the Fly wheel face with petrol, or could this contaminate the new clutch pad, or can you recomend something else.

cheers

Brake and clutch cleaner - comes in a spray can.

66

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Can't get it started..X30XE transplant into Scimitar GTE

« on: 14 September 2012, 15:44:02 »

OK, hand up time - reason for no immobiliser signal was no earth to the immobiliser unit

With that fixed, I get a solid light to the ECU lamp but the bugger still won't start

Run a quick paperclip test and showed 31 and 144 - 31 sort of is normal for a V6 (correct?) and 144 is a legacy code from the immobiliser issue I think.

Fuel pump - should it have a priming pulse when you turn the ignition on, or does it wait for a signal from the crank sensor to fire it?  Trying to work 3 handed, I didn't see many volts on the wire to the pump (pump works if shoved straight onto a battery live).  Have swapped relays but not managed to get any further.  How susceptible to low battery voltage (I'm currently trying to run it off a set of jump leads) are these?  When cranking, the ignition light is dimming and the ECU light goes out (or very dim) - something tells me this isn't quite right!

67

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Can't get it started..X30XE transplant into Scimitar GTE

« on: 05 September 2012, 17:45:51 »

Well, aside from a little bit of play I managed to get a grand total of nowhere - partly work related so my time at home is currently very limited.

I thought i'd have another go with a known set of ECU, transponder and chip so trot off to ebay and only find a couple of "sets" on there and the ECU looks to be different.  Mine is a "HJ" unit yet the ones on ebay are "AF" - whats the difference, and can I use an AF one where my HJ currently lives?  Tried a google and didn't get very far...

68

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Can't get it started..X30XE transplant into Scimitar GTE

« on: 15 August 2012, 09:09:50 »

The key I have is a non-remote one so chip removal probably tricky (ex-plod).  I assume the key location in the ring isn't that critical then?

69

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Can't get it started..X30XE transplant into Scimitar GTE

« on: 15 August 2012, 08:22:50 »

Yep - barrel mounted transponder (but not the OE Barrel; key currently taped to the transponder).

1 Brown/Red (from Alarm unit?) - Not Connected
2 Brown/Blue - Dash warning lamp (H30 - with ECU fault lamp)
3 N/C
4 Brown - Earth
5 Black - Ignition
6 Blue/Red N/C
7 Blue/Red - to ECU (wire still in one piece as taken from car loom)
8 Brown/White - to Diagnostic Connector (Currently N/C)
9 Red - Battery Live

70

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Can't get it started..X30XE transplant into Scimitar GTE

« on: 14 August 2012, 22:22:07 »

Long time no visit...

I've been busy on the QT transplanting an X30XE into my Scimitar (yes, its been done before) and finally got to the moment this evening of turning the key...and it wasn't all roses

The one thing thats been bugging me is if the Alarm module is needed - the key antenna unit has a blue/red wire direct to the ECU (and another that I can't remember where it came from), key is in the antenna module (is position important) yet all I get is a flashing fault lamp which i'm pretty sure is Immobiliser still active.

Wiring diagrams in the Haynes are a little vague - "early" and "late" but that doesn't help as I don't know the age or VIN of the donor car for the engine and box (ebay special - ex-Plod Estate, apparently).  All I can tell is that its got the early inlet manifold and the later cam pulleys (bought an early cam kit....), and a Motronic ECU.  Battery wasn't in the rudest of health, so thats back on charge.

Any pointers, chaps?

71

Omega General Help / Re: turboing your v6

« on: 06 November 2011, 18:36:58 »

Is the red Ka cheating though?  That looks like a Scimitar chassis to me...

72

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: too much quiescent battery current

« on: 22 March 2009, 19:33:07 »

200mA will be 2.4W - how much do the electric window switch lamps take?  They stay live for a while (or is it just until the door is closed?)

73

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: alternator false warning light

« on: 20 March 2009, 20:02:03 »

Those readings sound about right given a little leeway for a cheap meter...£20 well spent, i reckon.

As for the tensioner, the idler pulley has a bolt head in the middle.  Put a spanner/socket on it and you'll find it moves round on its spring to relieve the tension on the belt...

74

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: alternator false warning light

« on: 20 March 2009, 13:10:16 »

a.13.4
b.12.1
c.11.6
d.11.6

Different from yesterday - in that I just took off the sensor wire from the alternator - warning light goes off of course, but gearbox warning still comes on - would have said something if the gearbox stayed ok, but now it's looking like alternator and gearbox needing attention at same time.   

That explains the low readings - somehow i think you might have readings for c and d about 15-17 volts with it connected....

With no sense wire connected, it won't charge.  Try it again with the wire connected.  If you get anything above 14-15v then the alternator is goosed (or rather the regulator is).  This can ause all sorts of problems - especially the autobox.

75

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Dash lights flashing with left indicator

« on: 01 March 2009, 11:41:35 »

Does point towards an incorrect cluster maybe ?

I'd say so - but what the differences are, i don't know..

The car is a facelift model 2.5 Cd saloon

Glen had the speedo assembly changed recently due to the fuel guage and temp guage not working, He was advided by a local garage to change the whole unit. I noticed from looking at the newly fitted clocks that they are from a minifacelift model because the faces are black not grey