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61

Omega General Help / 2,0 stumbles

« on: 26 September 2019, 23:01:21 »

Coming home from work tonight the normally very reliable 97 2,0 16v estate had problems. Fired up as normal an ran good the first 3-4 km then it stopped pulling completely and just jerked whenever i applied throttle. Had to be very gentle on the throttle to avoid it stalling. Would barely keep 80 km/h. Also stalled in an intersection when clutch applied. After 10 km of just barely being able to move the eml came on. Just made it home. Paperclipped it and got 0340 camshaft sensor incorrect signal. Would this indicate a bad camshaft sensor or could the code be caused by all tve jerking and stumbling from the engine and the fault might be something else?

62

Omega General Help / Re: Airbag

« on: 11 August 2019, 20:25:27 »

I thought airbags had a "useable life" and after that they were deemed not viable.I would imagine most omegas on original Air Bags had reached that point ...and begs the question would they even deploy if needed ?

In the early days of airbags 70s/80s to early 90s dealer inspection of airbags and even replacement of airbags was recomended after a number of years. Since then experience has showed that airbags are extremely reliable and work as they should even in 25+ year old vehicles. I dont think any manufacturer has a replacement regime for airbags anymore. If the airbag light comes on with ignition and then goes out as it should i would feel very confident that the Omegas original airbags would deploy as they should if ever needed.

63

Omega General Help / Re: Omega A 3.0 24v loses power as 4200RPM :'(

« on: 22 July 2019, 17:16:52 »

On the straight six the dual ram valve should open about 4000 rpm. Easy to check if it works. Just rev the engine from under the bonnet. Should also be obvious when driving. When the car passes 4000 rpm and the valve opens it will pull noticeable better and the engine sound changes to a more «throaty/rougher» sound. Much more noticeable than on the more sophisticated multiram setup on the v6. At least that was the case on the 2,6 straight six Omega A i once owned. (same intake/dual ram setup as the 3,0 24v.)

64

Omega General Help / Re: Key stuck in ignition.

« on: 21 July 2019, 21:12:38 »

Better it got stuck in that position than in the zero position. I would not try to get it back to zero/ignition off. You should be able to dismantle the lock and clean/fix it when the key is turned to ignition on. If it sticks in ignition off position then you hav a problem:p

65

Omega General Help / Re: Car wont start after sitting for 3 years

« on: 07 July 2019, 21:31:15 »

I have to admit i was wrong earlier. I saw you had an ir remote and was shure none of those had chips. But i see you have that. I have a 94 and an early 95 Omega and neither of those have the chip or the black box under the ignition barrel.

66

Omega General Help / Re: Car wont start after sitting for 3 years

« on: 01 July 2019, 20:26:47 »

He will have an immobilizer but he wont have a chip in the key or a ring/box around the ignition switch. He has an infrared system and immobilizer functioneality is handled by the central locking ecu. Immobilizer on the 94-95 infrared cars can only be switched of by the infrared signal from the fob. Immobilizer is activated by locking car with the fob OR by locking the car with the key in the door lock. Only unlocking with the fob will release the immobilizer though. However if the immobilizer on these early cars are active and preventing engine starting the little red light in the running man button should Flash. What dont make sense to me is that you have immobilizer codes but the engine still cranks. Immobilizer should prevent the engine from cranking.

67

Omega General Help / Re: Car wont start after sitting for 3 years

« on: 01 July 2019, 10:05:06 »

If the car has the old type ir remote that you have to aim at the little dome in the roof with a Max range of 1-2metres it wont have any chip or magical box around the ignition barrel. If it has the newer type radio control remote it will have chip and little box of tricks.

68

Omega General Help / Re: Car wont start after sitting for 3 years

« on: 24 June 2019, 12:46:20 »

being the early Omega
does it have the fuel pump relay with the diode and 2 coils (as per omega A) ?
that takes a negative pulse from crank sensor to trigger firing
so if you have a duff one, you could loose spark and fuel IIRC

BUT

still think you need to resolve this non working remote fob / immobilizer

With the omega if you weren't using the fob to lock it you couldn't use your car with just the key?

when you last had it running , did you use the remote to open it ?

is there an ID40 chip in the key ?
when trying to sync, do you hold the fob next to the key when cranking ?(is there a transponder chip in the fob ?)

lock car,remove battery for 10 mins, unlock car ,key in position 2, aim fob at  sensor for 10 seconds, put fob by key and crank ?

I really don't think the 1994-96 cars had a transponder chip. They didn't have the collar round the ignition switch that talks to the transponder chip in later cars.

Thats right. No chip, no collar around ignition switch on ir cars. Immobilizer is operated with the ir remote together with alarm and central locking.

69

Omega General Help / Re: Car wont start after sitting for 3 years

« on: 23 June 2019, 13:45:29 »

Resync procedure for the old type ir remote is:
-separate remote from key
-turn key in ignotion (cant remember if its to position 1 or 2, try both)
-hold the remote maximum 5 cm away from the little dome sensor in the roof and press button on remote.
If resync is succesfull interior light will flash on/off a couple of times as confirmation.

70

Omega General Help / Re: Pic of turret

« on: 20 June 2019, 20:08:28 »

Had worse on one of our Omegas. Girlfriend came Home and complained that the car was making noise and a big thing was moving up and down in the boot. Shure enough the shock had broken through the top of the tower and was now moving freely in the boot. Paid a breaker around 40£ for a new tower top cut from a wreck. Paid a bodyshop 150£ for cutting out the old and welding in the «new». Car is still running great and i guess that was about two years ago.

71

Omega General Help / Re: are Driver and passenger window winder motors the same for all years?

« on: 16 June 2019, 06:42:18 »

Different connector on 94/95 cars. Slightly oval connector on both window motor and central lock. More square connector from 96 and up. That said the pin layout for the connectors are the same. A 94/95 car can use both type og central locks and electric window motors because the older style oval connector slides in nicely in the newer window motor or central lock. Connector wont «lock» properly but ive done this many times and never had one fall apart.

So:
-older door loom can handle both old and new type central lock/window motor
-newer door loom can only use new type central lock and window motor.

72

Omega General Help / Re: Rear brake shield replacement

« on: 06 June 2019, 12:38:47 »

Thanks a lot for the information. I have already ordered the eBay one to see how it will work. Did use Paypal:) there is certainly not enough healthy material in the old one for an easy fix. That whole area is crumbling to pieces.

73

Omega General Help / Rear brake shield replacement

« on: 06 June 2019, 09:56:35 »

I’ve got a 94 omega 2,0 where the rear right brake shield is beyond help. The holes where the handbrake shoe pins go through are now roughly a centimeter in diameter due to rust. Also the whole area around there is falling apart. Looked on german eBay and found what seems to be aftermarket shields. Looks the same except the ring where the handbrake shoes rest against seems to be missing on the eBay ones. Are the brake shields two parts, or am i missing something? Car has the old type handbrake where the pins have crossheaded heads and the tip attaches to the back plate. Link to the eBay ones:
https://www.ebay.de/itm/Ankerblech-hinten-rechts-NEU-fur-Opel-Omega-B-Ankerplatte-Bremsblech-Blech/113131643124?fits=Model%3AOmega+B+Caravan%7CMake%3AOpel&hash=item1a572be0f4:g:--YAAOSwJqNbFWoj

74

Omega General Help / Re: Corrosion in Boot Where Shocks are installed

« on: 30 May 2019, 09:22:56 »

It happened on a 2.5 saloon I owned. After advice I scrapped the car. I believe saloons are more prone to this problem that estates.

Thats my impression too. Have seen this on two saloons. Meanwhile one of my estates was so rusty underneath that you couldnt keep the spare wheel in its well because most of it was gone. Both rear wheels could be seen from inside the load area and one of the chassi rails was rusted so it had broken in two. Shocks was still fine:p

75

Omega General Help / Re: Corrosion in Boot Where Shocks are installed

« on: 29 May 2019, 18:57:37 »

Had this on a 94 saloon. One of the rear shock suddenly ripped through the top of the «tower» and moved freely inside the boot. Solution was to cut out the tower from a car on the scrapyard and weld that in. That was a couple of years ago and car is still in daily use.