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766

Omega General Help / Re: Front crank oil seal change or not?

« on: 26 April 2017, 21:27:17 »

It's not hard to do once you've undone the crank bolt and drawn the timing belt pulley off.


But if it isn't leaking(and it will be obvious if it is) leave it alone.

Very tempting since belt is coming off mind you but I'll have a look at it as I am getting oil stains all over the sump and guard underneath, although this maybe the sump.

767

Omega General Help / Front crank oil seal change or not?

« on: 26 April 2017, 21:13:54 »

While I'm doing my Timing Belt I was going to change the front crank oil seal. firstly, I take it this is pretty much as easy (ish) as most other cars - barring a stuck pulley - when is the crank oil seal usually due for a change in most peoples opinion, or are they quite hardy?

I'm at 80k and it's a 2.6 v6.

Cheers

G

768

Omega Gallery / Re: Omega 24v Work in Progress

« on: 23 April 2017, 20:09:55 »

Now that I can see in the belt area it looks like it's due a change as there is a lot of rubber "powder" sitting atop the timing belt bolt mount in between the 2 cam sprockets. Nice little confirmation tell tale for a belt change if you ask me, except of course for the more dramatic option of a snapped belt!


The broken sensor at the top and back of the plenum chamber thingy


The other bit of the broken sensor floating about at the back RH side of bay

I don't think the belt ever fails - it is always a tensioner that lets go and lets the belt fall off the sprockets

You need a replacement vacuum solenoid. The one you have broken controls a flap at the rear of the intake manifold that will have a noticeable effect on the engines tractability.

I had another look at it, there is bits of belt rubber all over the top of the water pump recesses and all over the back of the cover, not just dust, but bits of rubber too. The teeth look quite thin on the skin.

769

Omega Gallery / Re: Omega 24v Work in Progress

« on: 23 April 2017, 20:08:17 »

Today was alignment day and everything on the face of it seemed ok, the only adjustment was toe needed set. Camber was within limits. The techy had to heat the adjusters though. He left it to cool off before actually setting the toe. You could actually see the setting change as it was heated and then left to cool off. He did say is this got sport suspension as it looked low at the front. And was it the one with adjustable rear shocks, said not afaik, think it is elite one that has those.

Glad that's that out of the way. I'll keep an eye on the tyre wear as I have been doing anyway. It's looked ok since I got the tyres a couple of months ago at the same time bushes were replaced on arms.

Did you get a print out? The 'limits' generally used by the trade allow too much camber & hence result in excessive wear on the inside edge of the front tyres.

No, I forgot to ask damn! Actually thinking on it I think he might have used an omega 4 pot setting. I remember watching him scroll through the options and seen this as the last thing on the screen, he kept asking what model it was. Tbh I wasn't convinced it was done correctly as it seemed like he was too quick to say everything else is in tolerance it's just the toe that's out. He said he'd done one of these a few weeks ago then said no wait it was a carlton. The only way I would be sure is to do it myself!

770

Omega Gallery / Re: Omega 24v Work in Progress

« on: 23 April 2017, 18:46:13 »

Today I started stripping the gubbins off to get at the Timing belt. Everything went pretty much ok apart from a slightly seized on power steering pump pulley, a bit of fannying about to get the top cover off, in the midst's of which I decided to break a little sensor at the top right hand corner whilst removing it.

Now that I can see in the belt area it looks like it's due a change as there is a lot of rubber "powder" sitting atop the timing belt bolt mount in between the 2 cam sprockets. Nice little confirmation tell tale for a belt change if you ask me, except of course for the more dramatic option of a snapped belt!

As you can see McDonalds napkins do have other uses besides mopping up ketchup off your crotch!


The broken sensor at the top and back of the plenum chamber thingy


The other bit of the broken sensor floating about at the back RH side of bay


Air pipes off


Timing cover off



Straying slightly from subject, this was the rusty fuel pick up, although no signs of leaks. I did stick my hooter down there and there is a slight smell of petrol, got my lighter out to look for more leaks but no dice!

771

Omega General Help / Re: Stain on fuel tank

« on: 18 April 2017, 22:11:01 »

Oh how we laughed

For the sake of lifting the carpet and undoing four screws, can you afford not to

I'll give it a butchers and see what's happening in there

772

Omega General Help / Re: Stain on fuel tank

« on: 18 April 2017, 21:47:10 »

Remove the plate in the boot and find out

Scared to look, might be trolls in there!

773

Omega General Help / Re: Stain on fuel tank

« on: 18 April 2017, 21:46:33 »

Why would a petrol tank smell of gas?

Short for gas-o-line!

774

General Car Chat / Re: The chancellors wheels

« on: 18 April 2017, 20:26:55 »

I see on eBay, one satin red 2.6 elite sighted as carrying Gordon Brown, not sure if that increases the £1300 asking price or should lower it?

In the boot perhaps?

775

Omega General Help / Stain on fuel tank

« on: 18 April 2017, 19:42:58 »

Hi

Noticed a stain on the bottom of tank as if slightly leaking, hard to be accurate about where is coming from but looks like from top down the back of hanger and then staining around about bottom of where hanger strap is, or from down the front of tank and blown back by wind.



Actually no smell of gas (unless I drop one!). It might be when engine is running and car moving perhaps, then dries up by time it has been sitting.

If I remember rightly is there a common fault with the pick up pipe rusting on omegas?

776

General Car Chat / Re: Senator head bolts torque

« on: 17 April 2017, 20:35:28 »

Does anyone happen to know what this valve is:



It sits at front of engine, on top, just behind thermostat housing, and secures with 2 allen bolts onto a plate?

I appear to have broken the plastic collar on one or two of the vac pipes on it. Not sure if it was a push in bit to the pipe that broke or a bit on the actual valve itself. This can be seen in the pic below

777

General Car Chat / Re: Senator A2.

« on: 16 April 2017, 22:41:00 »

As Chris said,
Splined size 12 for the head bolts and 8 for the cam.

Thanks Mark-I'll give it a tap when putting it back on. Very busy for the next week or so , so hope to have it up and running the week after next and then off for an MOT. MOT history looks very good so hopeful nothing major here.

I'm going to use the three stage torque method-It's easy to check if you've missed a bolt-I couldn't check using the angle method and "may" not have tightened them all equally.
 Cleaned up the head and no obvious fault apart from lots of sealant.

Steve

The 3 stage torque method?

778

General Car Chat / MG Door won't unlock/open

« on: 11 April 2017, 22:30:14 »

I was helping my neighbour with his MG, the drivers door key wouldn't unlock the door so we took the door top trim off and I fashioned an old copper pipe flat, pushed it down the gap in door and window and pushed the little latch down and it opened (honest officer, I wasn't jimmying it open); turns out the little plastic collar between lock rod and latch from key barrel was loose and had slid down the rod, so I pushed it back up and in to the hole in barrel latch meaning could open with key again.

Trouble is there doesn't seem to be any mechanical latch on the passenger side, when the electric key fob thing is operated you can hear a click from drivers door but nothing happens. I'm assuming that both key movement on drivers door and the fob should kick both doors locks up, driven from the drivers side master solenoid. There is no mechanical key lock on the passenger side.

Any other way of opening the passenger door? I'm wondering if the key fob is knackered as he has to pull the cover off it and press the little buttons on the circuit board to make it work, however as I mentioned if the movement of key is not activating master solenoid then it's bloomin well stuck shut.

779

General Car Chat / Re: Senator head bolts torque

« on: 09 April 2017, 13:27:26 »

Bit of a confusing one with the head bolts. The original head bolts were Allen key type but the new ones were T55 Torx. However originally I had ordered a "ribe" socket set. I think the description was misleading as it said torx otherwise I wouldn't have bought them.

Strangely enough one of the ribe sockets slots nicely in to the T55 torx bolt. So away I went tightening the bolts down. Luckily the ribe I was using was too long to get into the back left hand bolt on the head. I could get it on - just - but any serious torque was not viable on the ratchet anyway and I was not willing to risk rounding the new bolt internals until I got the smaller length socket.

Anyways I popped into my local hardware store and he did have lots of torxs but not the ribe socket. Stupidly I had taken the socket not the bolt. I went back home, looked at the bolt very carefully and realised it was actually a torx. I was also in halfords and the guy showed me the socket set they had, this was when I discovered it was called a ribe socket set.

So back to my local hardware store with the bolt this time and tried a T55 torx, which fitted snugly. I had to buy a full socket set as they were the only ones that were small enough to go under the bulkhead, the loose T55 torx was long socket. The ribe socket looks exactly like the pattern of a torx except that the points are square rather than rounded. On some of the bolts the ribe square edges had slightly nipped the inside of the torx hole so I had to push them in with a little force, with some wiggling, to get past the "slag" from the ribe making it's mark.

After that I gingerly tightened the back bolts down and that was that. Here's pics of some of work done, head now tightened and manifolds/water pump on etc.

Primered chassis leg


Painted chassis leg


Water pump on - just after this I put on that tight elbow pipe from pump to stat housing


Water pump/casing view


Inlet manifold and injector rail stripped & cleaned


Both manifolds and new exhaust shield on

780

General Car Chat / Re: Senator A2.

« on: 07 April 2017, 22:19:32 »

on all the early engines they were not torx bolts.they are 12 point spline.size 12 for headbolts and 8 for cam sprocket bolts.6mm allen for front of head.if yours are torx type then 10 will be the size if thats what it says though a t10 torx does look a lot smaller than a no12 spline. best take a bolt to tool shop with you to be sure

T10 looks tiny on ebay, will take bolt to halfords see if I can get a bit.

Well zoom in then

Looks proportionally bigger, but still "small"