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Messages - Hillper

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91
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Heated seat wiring
« on: 04 September 2006, 16:28:08 »
It's a good job those wires weren't connected to an unused ejector seat!

Bear with me.

92
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Heated seat wiring
« on: 03 September 2006, 21:23:43 »
Sounds promissing.

I'll have to check my 'documentation' tomorrow.

93
This is actually a common problem.

Check and remake all the aerial connections from the headunit plug, any connectors along the way including the amplifier to the heated window.

94
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Unlocking Blaupunkt CDC
« on: 04 September 2006, 16:25:50 »
Is that locked out forever mode?  If so, it's a dealer job.  It's about £25 I think.

95
OK.  How about this?  Put it in the den.



Control the entire house from the comfort of your fully adjustable chair.  Comes with radio casette player apparently!

96
That's two votes for option 1!

97
I wrestled with this for a while.  I didn't want to lose the standard looks.

Jay's solution, though not the simplest was well carried out.

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1153396039/0

You'll be able to fit speakers with mounting depth up to 63mm if mem. serves.  That's most  good quality ones such as these.

http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=3020&cadid=136305922e8ae11c460dd1dc6bb8099b

Be careful of magnet diameter though or you'll be attacking the aperture in the door skin with a hammer!



The other way is to use the speaker wires to drive high level inputs to an amp.  (Most amps have them).

Option 1- Small amp and sub or active sub.  Original speakers high passed, running off headunit.  Very effective upgrade.

Option 2- Four channel amp. Two channels running fronts (components or standards) and two channels bridged to run 10" sub.  'Normal' setup.

Option 3- Two amps.  (Like Jay).  One running components.  One running bigger subs.



A lot depends on preference, pain tolerance (It's awkward and fiddly fitting this stuff) and budget.

How much is Mrs Markiec prepared to spend?

I can recommend option 1.  My freind has a 100Wrms amp and 10" sub in his Passat estate and it sounds very good.  A good compromise of cost, effectiveness and ease of fit.

Bear in mind that using high level speaker inputs to the amp, you're going to lose some quality, but I'd be surprised if you could tell under normal conditions.


98
Possibly.  You could do a dummy run with a bulb with wires soldered on, connected across one of the brake light terminals.

I doubt if the system would register a blown bulb if two were in parallel.

But if you used LEDs, it would probably be unaffected.

99
'No More Nails'!

But seriously, I think they are glued on aren't they?  Mrs Hillper's is.

It's drilling a hole for the wire that would worry me.  Connecting up the wires wouldn't be a problem.

100
Yes, the next step is to check for power at the connectors.

If there's no power, you'll have to work back towards the switches and fuse box.

101
In Summer, it can be difficult to tell if they're on, but you should be able to feel them with posterior in-situ.
Check fuse (14).
If that's OK, disconnect the connector and check for voltage.  But it's unlikely that you have the same problem on both sides unless the wiring is different on the new seats.



Grey connector, I believe.


102
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: ICE on a budget......
« on: 25 August 2006, 09:19:46 »
I did mine in stages.  It took nearly 18 months in total.  

I'd have either of the Alpines.  Both seem good.  But not sure how well the glidetouch bar works on the '53.
Which is better looking is a personal thing.  Bit too flashy for me!

Phil.  You're right, high end Sony stuff is as good as normal Kenwood, Pioneer or Alpine gear!  ;)
Actually, ten years ago, high end Sony gear was amonst the best you could buy.  But I'm talking about £1000 or more units.
They may make a comeback.  Some of their latest gear seems good on quality.

Can you tell me more about that Dellinger amp?

I've never heard of them!

And I agree about speakers.  They are the point in the system which can make the biggest difference in sound.  
Luckily, standard Omega speakers are very good.  Especially when amped.

103
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: ICE on a budget......
« on: 23 August 2006, 21:01:45 »
If you're on a budget, forget the adaptors!

Start with a good MP3 headunit and later add four channel amp driving all speakers, finally, use the rear amp channels, bridged, to power a sub instead of the rear speakers.

For good opinions on current kit, go here.

http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/vbb/

It's a great site.

Edit.  Headunits.  At around £200, I'd go for Alpine or Pioneer.




104
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: ICE on a budget......
« on: 20 August 2006, 10:26:09 »
What is your budget?

For a decent new unit, you really need to pay around £150-£200.

Otherwise, as suggested, Ebay is the place.

105
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Facelift ICE options
« on: 23 August 2006, 20:24:10 »
Good job!

To set the gains, you have to start at the headunit and work along the signal path.

The idea is to turn up the headunit until it starts to distort, then turn it down slightly to produce a distortion free input to the amps.  About 3/4 on the volume knob.

Then you slowly increase the gain on each amp in turn until the required output is found for each, making sure not to overdo it and produce distortion.  The two amps should be done separately.

But first, turn the gains on the amps down to about 1/3 or lower.  Set the sub amp filters to low pass (any frequency around 80Hz).  Set the speaker amp filters to around the same.  

With headunit tone controls flat, and the sub out level at 1/2 (can you control that?), turn up the headunit volume until you can just hear the speakers distorting.  

It's all a matter of trial and error and finding the right balance.

Having two amps complicates things and if there are signal processors in the path, it gets even worse!

It sounds like you're overdriving the amp to make it cut out.  Start again with the gains down and work up.  It'll take quite a lot of experimentation to get it right.

The filter settings are trial and error too.  As lond as the sub is low passed and the speakers high passed, you'll be fine.


Happy fiddling!


Edit.  The pro's do it with an oscilliscope!  More neighbour freindly.

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