91
Omega General Help / Re: Cruise Control Upgrade
« on: 21 July 2006, 14:02:44 »Quote
Its in the actuator box......Alrighty then!!
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92
Omega General Help / Re: Cruise Control Upgrade
« on: 21 July 2006, 13:39:49 »Quote
Slightly off topic - but does cruise control apply the brakes?
I have set mine to the limit in restricted areas, then rolled down a hill and seen it creep up by almost 10mph...
No. I think common sense must prevail in that case!!!
93
Omega General Help / Re: Cruise Control Upgrade
« on: 21 July 2006, 13:35:47 »
It's a seperate box AFAIK, but I'm happy to be proved wrong.
The later models were controlled by the engine ECU, but IIRC, there's another ECU to control the actuator.
The later models were controlled by the engine ECU, but IIRC, there's another ECU to control the actuator.
94
Omega General Help / Re: Cruise Control Upgrade
« on: 21 July 2006, 13:32:31 »Quote
Cruise underbonnet actuator
Cruise indicator stalk
Cruise brake switch
Plus clutch switch if manual
Don't forget the ECU!
I use my cruise all the time. It is invaluable for long stretches of heavily speed restricted roads though!! 8-)
95
Omega General Help / Re: Auto to manual conversion?
« on: 18 July 2006, 14:18:40 »
Just go and buy a manual car in the first place!!!!
JM2PW!
JM2PW!
96
Omega General Help / Re: Trade club
« on: 20 July 2006, 10:30:38 »
Well, some clubs negotiated membership in the tradeclub scheme.
If all the club members use the one account, then it'll show as being used quite frequently I would imagine.
If all the club members use the one account, then it'll show as being used quite frequently I would imagine.
97
Omega General Help / Re: Trade club
« on: 20 July 2006, 10:14:06 »Quote
All that stuff, blah blah... or just ask one of the guys on here who has trade club to get the stuff for you or let you use their card. Much easier.
Here is a new thread coming up. All trade club oiwners.....
I don't think that would be wise on the part of the card holders Fin'. As I posted before, although I wouldn't mind the odd bits and pieces, I'd be hesitant to use it for lots of stuff for 'mates'. I think that could be termed as abuse and my membership may be affected.
Let's face it, £20, (I think it might be £22 actually!), is a small price to pay for the ammount of discount you can get. I saved more than that the first oil change I did.
You don't have to have a 6 cylinder Vx to join ABS, but it helps.
98
Omega General Help / Re: Trade club
« on: 18 July 2006, 14:17:37 »
If promoting other clubs is frowned upon here then please feel free to delete this reply!!
If you have a 6 cylinder Omega, (and judging by your avatar, you have.), then spend £20 and join the Autobahnstormers.
They're not hugely geared up to cater for Omegas they're more enthusiastic about straight six Vx's, but trade club membership is included in the subscription.
You'll redeem the £20 on your first oil change!! 8-)
If you have a 6 cylinder Omega, (and judging by your avatar, you have.), then spend £20 and join the Autobahnstormers.
They're not hugely geared up to cater for Omegas they're more enthusiastic about straight six Vx's, but trade club membership is included in the subscription.
You'll redeem the £20 on your first oil change!! 8-)
99
Omega General Help / Re: Spongy brakes.
« on: 19 July 2006, 23:21:41 »
Don't know what to say Sounds2K.
I wouldn't have thought having the engine running while bleeding the brakes would've made no difference TBH. If there's an airlock, it's there servo assistance or not.
So do you think my best bet is to find someone with a tech1 and get them to run the ABS pump while I'm bleeding the brakes?
Is there no way I can frig it to do that without the requirement for tech1?
I wouldn't have thought having the engine running while bleeding the brakes would've made no difference TBH. If there's an airlock, it's there servo assistance or not.
So do you think my best bet is to find someone with a tech1 and get them to run the ABS pump while I'm bleeding the brakes?
Is there no way I can frig it to do that without the requirement for tech1?
100
Omega General Help / Re: Spongy brakes.
« on: 19 July 2006, 22:44:13 »Quote
not a servo problem?
So far as I can make out, no.
I've done the 'start the car with your foot on the brake test and it seems to work just dandy! The wierd and frustrating thing is that the pedals' absolutely rock hard when the engine's not running.
101
Omega General Help / Re: Spongy brakes.
« on: 19 July 2006, 20:23:22 »Quote
probably beyond the average back-street emporium?
And remarkably enough, me too!!
The fact that the pedal goes so far, stops briefly then sinks a bit further bemuses me. I always thought that air in the system caused the pedal to be springy. Or am I way off the mark?
102
Omega General Help / Re: Spongy brakes.
« on: 19 July 2006, 18:57:26 »Quote
Running fluid through doesn't guarantee no air, it just tells you that fluid is getting from the res to the bleed nipple....
OK, I'll see if I can get time to try out the more thorough method tonight.
Cheers,
Rod.
103
Omega General Help / Re: Spongy brakes.
« on: 19 July 2006, 17:01:22 »
I did think on the flexi pipes Mark 'cos the symptoms are like one of them's ballooning, but I got my mate to stand on the brake pedal while I inspected them and there was no bulging or anything like that on any of them.
I'm 99.9% certain that there's absolutely no air in the system whatsoever. I've probably run about 4 - 5 litres through the sod!! Costing me a fortune it is!!
I'm 99.9% certain that there's absolutely no air in the system whatsoever. I've probably run about 4 - 5 litres through the sod!! Costing me a fortune it is!!
104
Omega General Help / Spongy brakes.
« on: 19 July 2006, 16:46:29 »
Right guys, I'm really desperate!! (I know I posted this elsewhere, but I haven't fixed the problem yet.)
Sorry for the long post, but Iwanted to post as much info as poss'.
I have an 'L' plate 2.0 16vCD saloon that I intend to travel to Naples in at the end of September on the Staples2Naples banger rally. Anyway, enough about that.
Amongst the jobs that needed doing for MOT and otherwise, was a bright idea I had to 'upgrade' the front brakes to Senator 24v spec'. TBH, while the disks were slightly bigger, I doubt it'd have made much improvement, but the brakes that were on it were past their best anyway, so seeing as I had a brand new set of Senny calipers/rotors/pads lying in my garage, I thought it'd be a good idea to kill two birds with one stone.
Anyway, after replacing the brakes, the pedal was spongy. It would go so far down then sink another inch or so. My friendly local grease monkey tells me that they're not good enough for MOT.
So I set about trying to diagnose the problem and started by bleeding the brakes. I tried an ezibleed and when that didn't work I tried the conventional method and when that didn't work, I tried clamping the flexi hoses and doing each one individually and then I did it again with the engine running. That didn't work either.
So I tried changing the master cylinder then going through the rigmarole of bleeding the brakes again and there was still no change.
I then clamped the front brakes off and the pedal was as hard as a rock, so I deduced that the problem lay with the Senator brakes that I fitted. I surmised that the Omega master cylinder wasn't up to the job of operating the bigger Senator pistons. So I made the executive decision to buy new rotors and pads and give the old calipers a bit of a service and that should rectify the problem.
So I did that last night. Nice new set of rotors and pads and I ensured the calipers were moving freely.
I thought it was slightly better, but grease monkey says they're still substandard!!
So I'm stuck and in a hurry to fix it.
Help!!
S2N is only eight weeks away and I want to use the car to prove it's at least a bit reliable!!
Sorry for the long post, but Iwanted to post as much info as poss'.
I have an 'L' plate 2.0 16vCD saloon that I intend to travel to Naples in at the end of September on the Staples2Naples banger rally. Anyway, enough about that.
Amongst the jobs that needed doing for MOT and otherwise, was a bright idea I had to 'upgrade' the front brakes to Senator 24v spec'. TBH, while the disks were slightly bigger, I doubt it'd have made much improvement, but the brakes that were on it were past their best anyway, so seeing as I had a brand new set of Senny calipers/rotors/pads lying in my garage, I thought it'd be a good idea to kill two birds with one stone.
Anyway, after replacing the brakes, the pedal was spongy. It would go so far down then sink another inch or so. My friendly local grease monkey tells me that they're not good enough for MOT.
So I set about trying to diagnose the problem and started by bleeding the brakes. I tried an ezibleed and when that didn't work I tried the conventional method and when that didn't work, I tried clamping the flexi hoses and doing each one individually and then I did it again with the engine running. That didn't work either.
So I tried changing the master cylinder then going through the rigmarole of bleeding the brakes again and there was still no change.
I then clamped the front brakes off and the pedal was as hard as a rock, so I deduced that the problem lay with the Senator brakes that I fitted. I surmised that the Omega master cylinder wasn't up to the job of operating the bigger Senator pistons. So I made the executive decision to buy new rotors and pads and give the old calipers a bit of a service and that should rectify the problem.
So I did that last night. Nice new set of rotors and pads and I ensured the calipers were moving freely.
I thought it was slightly better, but grease monkey says they're still substandard!!
So I'm stuck and in a hurry to fix it.
Help!!
S2N is only eight weeks away and I want to use the car to prove it's at least a bit reliable!!
105
Newbie Welcome Area / Re: From America Land
« on: 23 February 2007, 09:32:33 »
Hi Newbee!!
So that would be a good way of lowering the compression to stick a blower of some description on it then would it?
Quote
They are lower compression so lower output....think they fitted 2.5 heads on the 3.0.....
So that would be a good way of lowering the compression to stick a blower of some description on it then would it?