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Messages - polilara

Pages: 1 2 3 4 5 6 [7] 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 ... 64
91
No, not a switch problem I am afraid. Only one wire from switch and DLR. Split in fuse box as earlier discussed. Left side works perfectly.

92
Sure, but this morning failure was back. Starting after night ok, but second start when hot right side not firing. After couple of turns of the light switch it fired. Have to change the ballast connector but I think that is not the cause.

I am wondering how the frame of Xenon light is earthed inside the lamp because the whole lamp is fixed to car with plastic ears. There is one connector having three wires; one thick brown and two thinner ones. Thinner ones are most propably + of main beam and parking beam and this brown one is the minus for every part inside. How many wires are inside the thick ballast wire which goes to Xenon bulb, just one or two? If just one then the earthing from the Xenon frame inside the lamp could be a problem. High beam and park is ok.

93
So, completed also with ballast plug, dissasembled the connectors from the plug, one of them seemed to be a bit loose. I bent it "tight" and put it back. I also sprayed another plug in main light having brown thick wire, perhaps earthing the whole lamp? This morning went to MOT 7.00 and both lights fired when engineer started the engine (DLR). So one year more time to find the root cause if still problematic. Thanks for help, can continue this latest next November...


94
Ok, thanks, both big ones in footwell opened, sprayed with PRF 7-78, connected and opened 5 times each. Now working with ballast plug. How about earthing of the lamp? Where is that point. Might be earthing problem when firing.

95
The X1 plug is the last connection before the plug to the ballast.

I would identify the correct pinout for that yellow wire, then split the plug and take a closer look at both sides of the plugs.

If you have any, a spray of contact cleaner won't hurt whilst you're there.

Next step will be the plug at the ballast itself.

Thanks for comments, I agree; both X1 and ballast plug can be the root cause for this but how are the joints marked with red circles before X1 physically done and where are they? Is it possible that splitting to two is done inside the Female side of X1. Somewhere have to be joint(s) for this splitting?


96
I did not yet continue to right side. I removed fuse box to see if there is something loose behind F31. Seemed Ok. Two Yellow cables were coming from there. Replaced fuse   as it has been there about 22 years. Tried to move it there in and out to polish possible oxidations. Lamp fires every time when cold. I tried 20 times. Strange.

97
So left side kick panel off now, never seen so many wires. Maybe 300pc. There are two very large connectors, Green and blue. Green one is larger. Do you mean that I open it? Everything seems neat clean and dry. Never been there earlier. Fuse 31 was ok. Not oxidized. Is there other interesting plus in the right side?

98
Thanks DG, so LH driven car in Finland and Fuse box is in left side  under steering wheel. So that's drivers side for me.  Let' see what I find, I start from fuses although unlikely and continue to kick panels removal.

99
Found one schema. If X1 (red arrow) is a connector having wires 96, 104 and 108 latest 108 leading to E10 Head Light Dipped Beam-Right. If fuses are ok perhaps this connector have a problem. Any idea where it is located?




100
The original topic is below in bottom.

Then I changed Ballast in Nov 2022. Unfortunately still right side fires or not. In the morning it Fires but after a while when started again it usually does not. Left side 100% ok. Happens when Day Light Relay tries to fire or when I turn the switch. So perhaps something after this 12V is splitting into 2...

Below is what I learned from original topic reply #6 from TB:

"Just looked at the wiring diagrams, and its only one 12v feed from the daytime running "relay", splitting into 2 just before the fuses
F22 and F31."


What plugs should be checked if those fuses contrlos left and right side? Can this be a Fuse problem? Any relays? I do not have diagrams. And MOT next week. Please help.

https://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=147401.msg1957513#msg1957513

101
Job jobbed, thanks for OOF again, found inexpensive (60euro) non original but new spare. And it works.

102
Lamp off, thanks, now new ballast etc.

103
I tried to get some help from internet and was guided to a very nice forum!

https://oldsite.omegaowners.com//forum/YaBB.pl?num=1154966960

104
I always removed the headlight.

On a FL model, remove grill, remove screw holding the trim under headlight (sometimes this screw is a plastic clip), then the 3 hex screws holding the headlight, plus all the electrical connectors.  Granted, bottom screw is a slight faff, but doable.

On PFL/MFL, if it has headlight washers, you have to loosen the bumper to get the headlight washer past the bumper.
This, but I have no idea what grill requires removing...  ;D

Yeah, realized that, as FL just opening bonnet was enough, but cannot get the headlight off, more tips needed:

Removed those three hex bolts and the plastic clip fixing the trim in headlight (radiator side) and removed all the bulps and connectors.

I can move the light one centimeter to front and one centimeter to the radiator direction but cannot ge it out. Do I have to remove the trim under the lamp or bend it somehow? If trim have to be totally removed how it is locked in the wing side, please help. I cannot see down there (too big head).

105
Thanks, that way. I do my best this evening.

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