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931

Omega General Help / Re: Front Springs Length Difference

« on: 25 October 2018, 15:04:12 »

The bottom of the strut has a collar on the shock absorber with two bolts which attach to the steering knuckle. You can use this as a fixed reference point. The upper spring seat needs to be reinstated with the same inboard/outboard orientation on the assembled strut that it started with. One of the two holes is an alignment hole. So mark the hole relative to the centre of the knuckle with a paint pen or similar.

If the upper spring seat is not correct then it won't be properly parallel to the bottom seat. The strut can be assembled with the upper mount 180 deg wrong. Some report that the strut assembly then fouls the mounting turret in the car body upon turning. I suppose the spring might also be distorted, can't remember about that.

932

Omega General Help / Re: Heater bypass valve

« on: 25 October 2018, 13:04:10 »

V6 or 2.2 16V?

If it's leaking "again", it might not be the valve itself. Have a look at the coolant hose that connects the rear of the engine to the inlet port of the plastic heater matrix bypass valve. It might be split (or a bad seal due to scale) at the end(s) under the clips.

933

Omega General Help / Re: Front Springs Length Difference

« on: 25 October 2018, 12:15:24 »

Apologies. I originally mentioned the "lower mounting dish" for the spring. I actually meant the upper dish/spring seat. It's item 2 in this drawing. There are pictures in this thread.

In the photo of the "top hat" upper spring seat, there are two similar holes. Mark the hole that's inboard when the assembled strut is mounted on the car. And make sure that your reassembled/rebuilt  strut has the hole in the same position.

934

Omega General Help / Re: Can I Reuse Wishbone Bolts (and nuts)

« on: 22 October 2018, 12:19:58 »

Omega suspension bolts are mated with nuts that have an an oval distorted thread.

The top of the nut is compressed to form a 360° oval-shaped locking zone. Nuts twist freely on a bolt or stud until they make contact with the locking zone. Then they expand to an almost circular shape, creating locking compression.

These nuts are a use once design as in theory used nuts can't be reused as they can't be accurately re-tightened to the required stating torque, prior to any subsequent angle tightening.

So clean undamaged bolts are fine to reuse but in an ideal world you should use new nuts.

935

Omega General Help / Re: Front Springs Length Difference

« on: 19 October 2018, 15:35:56 »

You might find that the end of the springs have paint on them. It's a colour code to indicate the application. I.E left hand drive V6 Saloon etc. If you have new OEM springs then the paint code should match. Aftermarket springs maybe don't have the paint code. And the paint on the old springs might have worn off by now.

When you remove a strut you will see that there are two small holes in the lower mounting dish for the spring. Make sure you note and mark which hole is located inboard as mounted on the car. IE the hole's position relative to the steering knuckle. The strut needs to be reassembled with the hole you marked in the same position.

936

General Car Chat / Re: Free look up of Euro Emissions Standard of your car against Reg Plate

« on: 17 October 2018, 02:27:20 »

Before every later Omega owner starts getting exited, there is only one UK Omega model that is officially Euro 4 compliant...

2003 2.2 16v Petrol Manual.

Good luck finding one

The VCA database says that Model Year 2003 2.2 16V Petrol Auto & Manual are Euro 4. All other MY 2003 Omegas are Euro 3. (A4 = automatic 4 speed gearbox and M5 = manual 5 speed gearbox.) Model Year does not directly map to year of first registration or actual year of manufacture. Some MY2003s may well have been manufactured and registered in 2002.

VAUXHALL Omega, MY 2003   2.2 16v 4 door Saloon From VIN: W0L0VBF6931000001   A4   2198   Petrol   248
VAUXHALL Omega, MY 2003   2.2 16v 5 door Estate From VIN: W0L0VBF3531000001   A4   2198   Petrol   252
VAUXHALL Omega, MY 2003   2.2 16v 4 door Saloon From VIN: W0L0VBF6931000001   M5   2198   Petrol   231
VAUXHALL Omega, MY 2003   2.2 16v 5 door Estate From VIN: W0L0VBF3531000001   M5   2198   Petrol   236
 

937

Omega General Help / Re: Cat back exhaust on v6 2.5

« on: 17 October 2018, 00:42:37 »

The exhausts are the same except that 3.0 has twin tail pipes on the back box and 2.5 has just the one. GM factory originals with the nice pipe are no longer available. And all of the after market ones have a plain pipe. You can get after-market tail pipe embellishments if you feel the need.

The seller linked to earlier that had the 3.0 version doesn't seem to have a 2.5 single pipe kit for a 2.5 saloon, they do for the estate. However they do sell all the parts separately including the 2.5 back box.

I got a one of these complete 2.5 V6 exhaust from a German seller a couple of years ago. It was fine. Thicker metal than I expected and it fitted perfectly. Made an offer and got it for £80 delivered. Took about a week to get here. This current seller seems to be Polish so not the seller I used, but the exhaust seems to be the same.

Of slight concern is that since then there is a lot less choice on ebay. And the price has gone up.

938

General Car Chat / Re: Free look up of Euro Emissions Standard of your car against Reg Plate

« on: 15 October 2018, 02:41:25 »

Found this hidden away in the World Wide Wait, its a Free Emissions Tool below to check the Euro Emissions Standard of your car against the Vehicles Reg Number, which will be handy for all the Up and Coming Emission Tax Charging currently being rolled out or planned in Cities around the UK and the Planet.

Its actually an APi Plug In but works as a stand alone if you use the My Link, handy on the Phone, save as Favorite or Add link to Home Screen from the Browser. 

https://hpicheck.com/api/euro-status#

The lookup is not accurate. I suspect it's simply checking the date of first registration against the date that each standard became mandatory.

So a petrol Omega registered before Jan 2000 reports as Euro 2 when most if not all petrol models are Euro 3. Similarly an Omega registered between Jan 2000 and Jan 2005 reports as Euro 3 when some are Euro 4.

The VCA database available here is much more accurate, albeit it only goes back to 2001. It also factors in model year as well as date of first reg.

939

Omega General Help / Re: Bolts for front shocks

« on: 14 October 2018, 03:12:12 »

The bolts, if undamaged and clean, can be reused. Ideally the lock-nuts should be renewed if disturbed.

The lock-nuts are of the all metal thread distorting type where the top of the nut is deliberately deformed. In theory, once used such nuts can't be reliably re-tightened to the required torque prior to any further angle tightening. They are a use once component, in practice they are re-used.

That said if you disturb the struts you'll have to get the suspension geometry checked and reset. That might well require loosening and re-tightening to correct the camber. So if you do plan on replacing the nuts (and/or bolts) you could reuse your originals and ask the alignment shop to install the new.

940

Omega General Help / Re: 1995 omega remote fob

« on: 11 October 2018, 11:52:27 »

BTW, that one in the link is **WAY** too expensive for a 2nd hand unit.

Not to mention the included Eunicell battery. Expect the battery to last about a week.

941

General Discussion Area / Re: Broadband extension

« on: 08 October 2018, 23:00:14 »

The Powerline and similar mains adapters work well when both ends are on the same ring-main but performance drops off if the circuit crosses an MCB. Even worse if crossing an RCD or RCBO. Noisy appliances on the ring will also cause interference and a performance drop.

A point to point Ethernet cable will give the best performance.

942

Omega General Help / Re: 1995 omega remote fob

« on: 08 October 2018, 16:30:23 »

The Autovaux picture looks like the fobs I used to have. Trying phoning Autovaux to ask will it suit a '95 Omega?

943

Omega General Help / Re: Auxilliary belt confusion

« on: 29 September 2018, 14:17:24 »

Are the numbers still visible to suggest 2030mm? (Seems unlikely unless it's very new.)

2020mm is correct for a 2.5 V6 with aircon.

2030mm doesn't seem to be correct for any Omega or Cadillac V6. Which is not to say that the tensioner can't take up the excess slack.

2260mm was used with a secondary guide roller that was apparently installed on some early V6s, I suspect not European market models. Probably only Japan. And in any event was superceded by 2020mm by omitting the extra guide roller. So not relevant to you.

I would be inclined to replace the belt if it is suspect, if only to reduce the chance of the car breaking down due to loss of alternator, power steering assist and water pump if the belt were to break. Any reputable make like Contitech should be fine.

944

Omega General Help / Suitable glue for bonnet rubber

« on: 17 September 2018, 17:27:18 »

What sort of glue do I need to stick these spongy bonnet rubbers into place?

945

Omega General Help / Re: V6 cylinder number confusion

« on: 12 September 2018, 00:42:34 »

Thanks. I guess it's just a few clips / screws and one pipe connection. What threw me was I had oil round the plugs in the 135 side. Did the pedal test and got an 0306 code. I cleaned the 135 side about a month ago and this morning the plug wells are bone dry. I'll have a go at the other side tomorrow.

Oil in the plug wells means that the cam cover seals have failed. Usually because of old age and/or blocked oil breathers. The problem won't go away simply by cleaning up the oil and changing the plugs. Renew the seals on both banks asap.