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946

Omega General Help / Re: 3.2 exhaust advice.

« on: 09 September 2018, 15:38:49 »

If the cats are working then I suggest you leave them alone. If necessary drill out the screws that join to the exhaust centre sections and replace with the nuts and bolts usually supplied with the exhaust parts.

947

Omega General Help / Re: Can belt urgent help please

« on: 06 September 2018, 12:07:46 »

I agree, your belt seems to be the wrong way round. There should be an arrow on the belt indicating the direction of rotation. which is clockwise viewed from the front.

What make is your belt kit?

948

Omega General Help / Re: Creaking steering column bearing

« on: 04 September 2018, 13:13:00 »

and the steering lock stops if on full lock can creak bad

Common on Carltons and Senators. Dab of grease on the steering stops cured it.

949

Omega General Help / Re: How does air get into the fuel tank?

« on: 04 September 2018, 11:17:10 »

Don't these these carbon canister systems typically (maybe all) have built-in air filter as well as a non-return valve. Air is drawn into the canister as described by Kevin Wood above. I suppose it's entirely possible that the filter and/or the valve gets blocked over time.

950

Omega General Help / Re: Omega Overheating and Hesitance issue! Need Help!

« on: 02 September 2018, 19:17:35 »

How did the mechanic fix it? Looks like he cut the pre-cat out with an acetylene torch. But did he weld in a new pre-cat or just weld in a piece of pipe to bridge the gap? Or did he install a new down-pipe and cat from the manifold?

AIUI the pre-cat is part of the Euro 4 emissions compliance. Most Omegas are Euro 3, however 2.2 16V MY2003s are Euro 4. Not entirely sure how it works but the intent is to light-up the main cat(s) faster. Presumably by the pre-cat heating up quickly (due to proximity to the exhaust manifold) and burning off excess hydrocarbons in the rich(er) cold start mixture, such that the downstream exhaust gas is hotter.

Certainly my 2003 2.2 heats up significantly quicker than the 2.5 V6 with (working) secondary air injection into the exhaust manifolds.

For the purposes of any official testing my guess is that it won't matter if the pre-cat is missing so long as the engine and exhaust is warmed up before the test. Not sure about the UK however?

Anyway glad to hear it's working.

951

Omega General Help / Re: Can belt urgent help please

« on: 02 September 2018, 13:47:21 »

While you're waiting you could consider replacing the water pump. Unless it's been done before it's at least 15 years old.

Before you give up and condemn the locking kit that you have!

The crank end of the tool has two flats on the round recess on the backside. The flats should fit snugly on the corresponding flats on the crankshaft boss. The round recess in the tool should be sitting squarely on the boss. The side flats provide the tool alignment when the crank timing mark is at 6 o'clock. The purpose of the knurled screw is to keep the tool square onto the boss and stop it rocking, not to prevent side to side movement as that's done by the flats.

Is the hole for the knurled screw threaded? If so, back off the screw so that none of it protrudes from the back. The hole should be lining up with the tapped hole in the crank boss. The screw should pick up the threads in the boss when you tighten it whilst keeping pressure on the base of the tool to keep it square to the boss. If some of the knurled screw was protruding then the tool won't be flat on the boss when you start. And you end up with a gap, which might cause tool misalignment with the pump.

As I understand you the holes don't line up properly and if that's the case it's never going to be right. Or perhaps the hole is drilled off-square. But first I would double check that there's no crud on the crank boss or it's flats that might prevent the tool from sitting squarely onto the boss. It wouldn't take much as it's meant to be a tight fit.

952

Omega General Help / Re: Can belt urgent help please

« on: 31 August 2018, 22:17:17 »

Nobody will have modified the hole.
Are you sure that the crank timing mark is at 6 'clock? Or maybe there's crap jammed behind somewhere?
There's a video here of a guy using the crank/water pump locking tool on a Cadillac CTS. At minute 9:00 and later at 38:30 it shows how the tool should fit.

If the tensioner and roller adjustments are out then the cam sprocket timing marks will be out.

953

Omega General Help / Re: Can belt urgent help please

« on: 31 August 2018, 18:13:15 »

Are you saying that the semi-circular cut-out doesn't sit properly on the boss of the pump?
And is the new belt fitted yet? But you can't adjust it?

954

Omega General Help / Re: Removing final drive front hanger (damping unit)

« on: 31 August 2018, 17:46:51 »

Crow foot spanner / wrench head? Mine are open jaw but I believe that ring types are available as well. That will attach to a torque wrench or a breaker bar,

955

Omega General Help / Re: Do independent garages replace strectch bolts?

« on: 30 August 2018, 21:01:26 »

It's worth adding that some or maybe most of the Omega suspension bolts are mated with elliptically distorted thread nuts. If the bolt & nut assembly is corroded then it's more difficult to disassemble and the process of doing so can potentially damages the threads. If you then reuse the bolts and nuts then it might be difficult to re-torque them accurately.

It's a judgement and experience call. My experience is that the bolts are usually in a better condition than the nuts. So I reuse the bolts if they're undamaged and renew the nuts where I have some available.

956

Omega General Help / Re: Air leak tracing

« on: 19 August 2018, 13:00:05 »

The tapping for the securing screw isn't open to any of the intake ports. So sealed or not shouldn't matter? However there's plenty of stuff at the rear of the plenum. Perhaps something there is displaced or not sitting on it's bracket and is fouling and preventing the plenum from sitting evenly on the six o-rings?

957

Omega General Help / Re: Air leak tracing

« on: 19 August 2018, 11:26:54 »

If the top hat seal isn't damaged then it can be reused. New ones seem to be only available in the USA, none to be had in UK ur Germany. (And another used one might not be any better than the one you have.)
 
As I recall the only other seals are the two small o-rings between the front spigots on the breather bridge and the throttle body. I'd replace those if there's any sign of damage or hardness. I don't think there is a seal for the securing screw. Might it be that one of the four tubes that connect to the rear has split, or isn't connected at the other end?

I'm not trying to get you to redo work already done, but if pressing on the plenum cured the hiss then might it be that one of the six big o-rings on the air intake underneath got displaced during re-assembly?

958

Omega General Help / Re: Air leak tracing

« on: 18 August 2018, 15:36:53 »

I mentioned such in his other thread, but Terry didn't respond. Since the cam covers were removed to fix the seals he likely removed the throttle linkage? Might it be that the clip that adjusts the slack was put back in the wrong place and now the butterflies can't fully close. There should be quite a lot of slack when closed but the butterflies should be fully open just before the pedal reaches the floor.

And one of the notorious oil breathers exits in front of the butterflies as I recall. This can deposit a nice layer of carbon on the butterflies and the throttle body surface which can let air leak past. Carb cleaner and an old toothbrush?

Check the butterflies in the throttle close absolutely completely, and are clean and free.

Sometimes, mongrels adjust them in order to adjust the idle, because they don't understand anything newer than carbs.

959

Omega General Help / Re: 2.5 petrol manual estate misfiring

« on: 15 August 2018, 20:11:45 »

Is the code 19 still present?
On the earlier V6 if you read the codes with the ignition on but engine off then it will always report code 19. It should clear when the engine is running. Else the sensor is foobar or the connector still has an issue.

Cobblers

A 19 is always a corrupted signal. And is 99.9% of the time the sensor, with that 0.1% being a faulty flywheel or ECU.

With engine not running, you get a 30 (No RPM signal) on a pre 2001 V6

Hmmm 30? Did you mean 31?

Apologies. Looks like I had that the wrong way round. I must have been thinking of 31 = no RPM signal as opposed to 19 = incorrect RPM signal. Anyway it isn't confirmed whether code 19 is still a problem, since the sensor connector was fixed. So it might all be irrelevant.

Concerning the misfire, not all failed coil packs have splits or cracks or melted bits. I have an original here, somewhere, that looks fine but misfires under load.

960

Omega General Help / Re: Engine dying

« on: 13 August 2018, 15:58:03 »

If the issue has gone away due to filling the tank then I'd first replace the fuel filter. There might be crud that moves about and blocks, when you go round a bend. Also the filter is not routinely replaced,  usually only when somebody suspects a blockage, so yours might be as old as the car. You'll need some clamps to block the pipes before you replace the filter else you'll be covered in petrol.

Cutting out as you approach and stop at traffic lights, roundabouts and the like is more in the style of a failing crank sensor. But your opening post implies going round a corner or a bend only. You didn't mention stopping?

Also I wouldn't rely on the fuel gauge on the dash. Omegas seem to be woefully inaccurate. Carltons and Senators were better.