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Messages - dallasdoer

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1
Newbie Welcome Area / Re: water in the crankcase after overheating
« on: 17 November 2011, 17:34:00 »
Thanks to all for the friendly welcome
The other responses for general help were reasoned and helpful
I have always been fond of natives of the English Isles as I am a descendant and well,
you just seem to have that joy of life that the French cannot touch and we Yanks
seem too busy and stressed to appreciate.
 Hale Britania and
 long live the Rolling Stones

2
Omega General Help / coolant in the crankcase after overheating
« on: 16 November 2011, 00:46:16 »
What defective seals/gaskets [besides the obvious head gasket(s)] could cause steam [super-heated water entering via normal channels (i.e., via the coolant reservoir) when the engine is not operating] to infiltrate the heads and/or settle in the crankcase?
                                                  Objective

To avoid now needless repair time and costs or to cause other unnecessary repairs.

Givens (set of facts):

2000 Cadillac Catera engine is dual overhead cams. It has a cast iron block with heads of aluminum/alloy and was been relatively problem-free since bought with 7,000 miles [lil’ old lady lease-return]. It just turned 90,000 miles. Dealer says they replaced the timing belt and tensioner around 20k; also repairing an oil cooler leak under the intake plenum [car developed a minor leak worsening and later found to be heater control].

Driving at highway speed on a very hot Dallas day [over 100 degrees] engine stopped without notice or any notice by the driver. (It appears that the radiator sprung a leak and emptied coolant sufficient to overheat the engine).

When the engine shut-down the driver attempted to restart it, while coasting in neutral on the highway. The starter motor turned but the engine would not restart. 

After coasting to a stop, the engine compartment was smoking. The driver [hoping to cool it to avoid melting rubber seals] added regular tap water to the reservoir, which produced a significant amount of steam and whistling noise when entering the engine.

After the engine cooled, driver tried to start the car - finding the starter motor turned very fast, apparently not engaging the flywheel [or suggesting a broken timing belt.]

Driver had the car towed home. The next day he added water to the reservoir which infiltrated the crankcase [suggesting busted gaskets somewhere]. He then left the car in that same state, in his garage [for few months while driving another car].

Upon recent disassembly and inspection of the timing belt, it is found in good condition i.e., it is not broken or frayed [the teeth are NOT spun down or missing at the crank balance pulley gear/sprocket]. Also, prior to releasing belt tension, it was near impossible to manually/hand-turn the crank (after draining the crankcase). However,
On removal of the intake manifold, rust on the underside of the intake valves on both sides of the engine is apparent. Obviously, water or steam entered those areas.

From these facts, it appears the car reached a sufficient temperature to cause the ECM to shut down operation [however, the starter motor turned (as if unimpeded by resistance suggesting the solenoid was not engaging the flywheel [by failsafe engineering].



3
Newbie Welcome Area / water in the crankcase after overheating
« on: 16 November 2011, 00:42:43 »
       Question:
 What defective seals/gaskets [besides the obvious head gasket(s)] could cause steam [super-heated water entering via normal channels (i.e., via the coolant reservoir) when the engine is not operating] to infiltrate the heads and/or settle in the crankcase?
       Objective
To avoid now needless repair time and costs or to cause other unnecessary repairs.
        Givens (set of facts):
2000 Cadillac Catera engine is dual overhead cams. It has a cast iron block with heads of aluminum/alloy and was been relatively problem-free since bought with 7,000 miles [lil’ old lady lease-return]. It just turned 90,000 miles. Dealer says they replaced the timing belt and tensioner around 20k; also repairing an oil cooler leak under the intake plenum [car developed a minor leak worsening and later found to be heater control].

Driving at highway speed on a very hot Dallas day [over 100 degrees] engine stopped without notice or any notice by the driver. (It appears that the radiator sprung a leak and emptied coolant sufficient to overheat the engine).

When the engine shut-down the driver attempted to restart it, while coasting in neutral on the highway. The starter motor turned but the engine would not restart. 

After coasting to a stop, the engine compartment was smoking. The driver [hoping to cool it to avoid melting rubber seals] added regular tap water to the reservoir, which produced a significant amount of steam and whistling noise when entering the engine.

After the engine cooled, driver tried to start the car - finding the starter motor turned very fast, apparently not engaging the flywheel [or suggesting a broken timing belt.]

Driver had the car towed home. The next day he added water to the reservoir which infiltrated the crankcase [suggesting busted gaskets somewhere]. He then left the car in that same state, in his garage [for few months while driving another car].

Upon recent disassembly and inspection of the timing belt, it is found in good condition i.e., it is not broken or frayed [the teeth are NOT spun down or missing at the crank balance pulley gear/sprocket]. Also, prior to releasing belt tension, it was near impossible to manually/hand-turn the crank (after draining the crankcase). However,
On removal of the intake manifold, rust on the underside of the intake valves on both sides of the engine is apparent. Obviously, water or steam entered those areas.

From these facts, it appears the car reached a sufficient temperature to cause the ECM to shut down operation [however, the starter motor turned (as if unimpeded by resistance suggesting the solenoid was not engaging the flywheel [by failsafe engineering].

I am hoping that the engine oil cooler/heater in the center of the engine just under the intake manifold has cracked or busted some fins so that the oil and water have mixed, as opposed to a cracked block, bad heads or gaskets.

Any good opinions are welcome.



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