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1

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Rev counter and speedo not working - Omega 2.6 CDX Auto

« on: 07 December 2021, 17:57:29 »

Interesting... I'll have to chase up this HUD device just in case the old girl suffers a relapse (only done just over 186,000 miles so should be plenty left in her) in the near future. From the comments above, battery voltage level would appear to be something to keep an eye on generally. I'll report back should anything change. Many thanks for your input. Cheers for now.

2

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Rev counter and speedo not working - Omega 2.6 CDX Auto

« on: 04 December 2021, 20:41:55 »

There is some history of this problem in the forum going back a number of years. A fair bit of discussion but no definitive answer. About four months ago my otherwise reliable Omega began to suffer with this. On most start-ups the rev counter and speedo worked fine. Stop the car and switch off after a few miles then restart resulted in no rev counter or speedo function. This habit continued for a month or so then both instruments decided to cease working at all. This did not bode well as an otherwise perfectly good - and lovely driving - car was scrapyard bound as no speedo is illegal to say the least. Shortly after this total failure and when taking her indoors to a hospital appointment, the old girl (ie the Omega, not her indoors) failed to start. Battery quite knackered as only got about half a rev off the starter. Odd how modern batteries are apparently quite fine one day then fall off a cliff and die with no indication. Anyway off to local tyre and battery place for a new one. Fitted without problem. Started OK and to my astonishment, both rev counter and speedo were fine, working perfectly. This has been the case for the past few months. From this I draw the following conclusions:
1) Pure coincidence. Whatever the fault was has rectified itself.
2) Disconnecting and reconnecting the battery has prompted some sort of 'system reset' such that the instruments function OK.
3) Fitting a fully-charged battery provides full-bodied voltage that perhaps was lacking with the old and dying one. The instrument systems then 'woke up' with this higher voltage and all was OK.

Personally I favour option (3) but I leave to readers to make up their own minds. In any event, if your Omega is suffering this problem, the above is a relatively quick test. It just might work...

3

Omega General Help / Outer sill trims

« on: 10 January 2015, 14:51:37 »

Hello there,

MOT due up again this month. The last advises included the statement 'unable to check sills for corrosion as covered by trim' Is there a potential problem in this area or is there a way to remove the trims prior to the test and have a look? I cannot find any reference to this in the maintenance guides so am led to think there is not a problem??

4

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Power sounder - reconnecting battery

« on: 16 June 2014, 18:21:56 »

Good afternoon all,

I've just completed a cam belt, water pump and alternator replacement courtesy of the OOF dvd and assistance from several of you more experienced hands out there. One situation remains; each time I try to reconnect the battery, the damn' power sounder goes off. It stays blasting its head off regardless of what I do. The only way to stop it is to disconnect the battery again. It does not seem to matter whether I reconnect the positive first or the negative first, whether the ignition key is in or out. It just keeps on going. I tried the engine and it started OK but the racket continued. I have read a lot in the forum about power sounders and their vagaries but I should say that up to now it has been fine. The main battery has been out of the vehicle for several days so could the internal batteries in the power sounder be flat and if so could this be the cause?? Any ideas welcome - having just spent a couple of arduous days replacing all the bits and rebuilding the front of the engine, I don't wish to be stymied by a ******* alarm!

Grahamff

5

Omega General Help / Re: Cam belt

« on: 14 June 2014, 22:59:26 »

Hi,
Not too sure if this is the right way to enter a post but I'm quite unfamiliar with the routine. In any event I am in the process of changing the cam belt on my 2003 2.6 following alternator failure and a trip home courtesy of the AA. Having already decided to change the belt (129,000 miles and no idea when or if the belt has been changed before), I purchased the OOF dvd on the subject some while ago (an excellent and down-to-earth treatise of the procedure complete with domestic noises off and occasional low-flying aircraft) and also a cambelt kit as recommended. Now, this was purchased online from an outfit purporting to deal exclusively in Vauxhall parts, so despite the fact that the cambelt kit was manufactured by SKF (a name usually commensurate with quality) and that all the component parts appeared to be identical with those described in the dvd, I was not unduly concerned. The new tensioner base plate was identically marked ('6B') as the original. All went well until it came to the actual fitting of the belt. New alternator, water pump and tensioner fitted OK although I felt that a course in gynaecology would be appropriate where fitting the alternator top bolt is concerned. The belt was marked as per the dvd so I started to thread it (cams locked as described using the same Laser kit) ensuring that the double line was lined up with marks on the crankshaft. Fine. Following the dvd and threading the belt over the left hand side was successful with the marks lining up with the TDC indicators on the cams. Then woe. There is no way. I repeat, no way that the marks on the belt will now line up with the TDC marks on cams 3 & 4. They are about an inch short. No matter what I do, I cannot improve on this. I have checked the belt length against the original and it matches. As far as I can see, the marks on the original belt appear to be further apart than on the new one. Also, the new belt appear to be slightly thinner and less robust than the original. It looks like I either have the wrong belt or something is wrong with the markings. I can make the belt fit but am reluctant to do so owing to the importance of getting the tensions right. By the way, neither my original nor new lower idler rollers have a tension adjustment, unlike that in the dvd. Am I missing something here or should I cut my losses and obtain a new belt?

With appreciation for any sympathy or abuse as appropriate,

Grahamff

6

Newbie Welcome Area / Hello and good evening

« on: 16 December 2012, 20:41:08 »

Just joined up. Not too familiar with these forum things so bear with me in case it all goes awry... I have two Omega B's; a 2001 2.5 CD and a 2003 2.6 CDX. Both in star silver with identical interiors. The reason for two is long-winded but suffice to say came about owing to a misleading (?) fault, the estimated cost of repairs being considerable and the advice of the garage was to buy another car. Since we were in the middle of moving house, there was no time to arrange expensive repairs so I took the garage's advice and purchased another car. Since you get a helluva lot of bang for your buck with Omegas (or any other large-capacity engined high-end spec vehicle), along came Omega B number two. Now that things have settled down a bit, I can take the time to join with other owners and get to know the car a little better. I look forward to a pleasant and fruitful association.

Regards

grahamff