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1

General Car Chat / Re: Advice on which wheels look best.

« on: 01 May 2017, 11:32:29 »

Aftermarket, based on a recent design

Then opel sells aftermarket wheels on new cars? The wheels came from the boss' wife's car and were swapped for 18" right after it was delivered.

2

General Car Chat / Re: Advice on which wheels look best.

« on: 01 May 2017, 08:26:26 »

These were the ones i had on my caravan

https://goo.gl/photos/PAYH4mf6bsYfQsHD8
https://goo.gl/photos/8zd15JUqirLZexHc8

3

General Car Chat / Re: Advice on which wheels look best.

« on: 30 April 2017, 12:18:43 »

Neither if them. I used to have 17" original opel from a later model(i think they were insignia ones) with 235/45 front and 245/45 rear and they filled up the wheelwell nicely. I just added a 20mm spacer in the back so they came out better in the back. They made the car looking 10y younger. And being original wheels overhere it gave me more in return when i sold my caravan.

4

Omega General Help / Re: MV6 engine light trouble

« on: 17 April 2017, 22:13:34 »

SORTED! It was a faulty knock sensor cable on the 135 bank. I was going thru all the connectors and accidently rubbed against the wire right behind the connector and suddenly the engine like choked and started to run different with more vibrations. So i replaced both sensors and checked the vacuum lines where one line wasnt connected to the vacbox above the interior filter. Also when i took a quick drive to germanys autobhan (german border is only 30km away) the 3way bypass split open with a puff of white smoke . as this one is my second ommi i had my lil toolbox with me where i keep a splitter for a (don't laugh....it works) gardenhose with on each end an inch of hose glued to the splitter. Its the same diameter as the coolant hoses. And on my first ommi it got me thru the week untill the new one arrived from ebay. So after a good 30mins i still got to put the old mv6 to its limits. I got 236km/h. .
Next week my usual daily driver (64 opel rekord A) will have its new drumbrakes and the ommi will be retired and stripped completely to have its parts used for my lil rekord project. Somewhere next year. I got my GMC vandura 4x4 conversion to finish first.

5

Omega General Help / Re: MV6 engine light trouble

« on: 02 April 2017, 22:17:22 »

Still, no one any ideas about the 40°advance on the ignition timing?
What i did notice was that as long as the engine has not been at the
Normal operating temperature the light does not come on. So could it be
That the EGR valve doesn't work as should? Well meaning that its doesnt shut
Down once temp of the engine is nornal.

6

Omega General Help / Re: exhaust modification

« on: 01 April 2017, 05:16:09 »

what i can make up from your story, your trying to find a way to decrease your power and torque with all the welds and cuts. And at some point facing buying a pretty good new exhaust system after cutting it and welding your current one.
reading thru alot of posts about exhausts and personal expiriences in the past, these seem to be thru and tested mods by several forums.

the omega exhaust manifolds are cast iron and prone to cracks, so take the manifold from a cadillac CTS 2003/2004 and modify the flanges to fit.
these manifolds seem to be tube bend and have a larger inner diameter(preferably do a port to manifold match for best result.)

take the frontpipe(part between manifold and cat) from a omega and grind to fit the cadillacs manifold.

now what your cat is concerned you can do 2 things. one is decatting BUT take a piece of tubing to match the inner diameter to your frontpipe. take your cats, and carfully cut next to the weld at the cat side and NOT the flange sides. try to pry out whats left inside the cat's housing so its empty. slide this housing over the piece of tubing and weld it. now cut of the flanges and fit that to the tube so now you have a cat "look" straight pipe and your gasses have no hickup  on the way out. a plus here is also is less suspision as you have 4 new weldspots with no sign of rewelded seams

to prevent your lambda sensor to go bananas by the increased exhaust flow rate and temperature you can get a angled  adapter so the sensor is moved more away from the passing flow and should prevent giving error codes or overheated faulty sensors.

now the muffler part, where you decide if you want it loud antisocial and a magnet to the eyes of the blue elven that hold the law. or be civilised to a certain extend  when your driving relaxed but giving a mean growl when you get into "pedal to the metal' modus, my personal favorite by SO FUNKIN FAR. the flowmaster deltaflow 40 series. these come at arround 150€/piece in different diameters and "in"out" configurations so see what matches best to you stock tubes you will reuse. the biggest benefit is that they will not change sound over time due to not using glasswoll to reduce sound. this muffler uses a "delta" shaped inner room design that by bouncing of the soundwaves to all the delta shaped walls. another benefit as your using LPG is that the condens from the LPG will not be absorbed by the glasswool  dampening what always leads to less dampening and rust forming on the inside.
when using this muffler you dont need a second one, as its a great sound.
you can "tune the sound" a little by either placing it more where your middle mufflers normally are so the sound is a bit deeper, or where your rear silencer should be making it more "in yur face"
and what all those X and H connections are concerned, unless your serious into HP gaining adding 100HP or so, not worth the time spending

7

Omega General Help / Re: Carpets...

« on: 01 April 2017, 01:55:17 »

It reminds me of my new Ford cars in the early to mid 70's.  Then we got off cuts of domestic carpet and cut them to shape to fit over the factory fitted rubber offering

Oh what memories of nice, warm, friendly carpet with that special new smell

You had the "L" version with rubber flooring then. 
my 64 opel rekord A has one big rubber flooring front...
Rubber flooring in the back was a "L" pack option.
and running 6V 
can't even charge my phone as no plug type thingy
works on 6v.

8

Omega General Help / Re: MV6 engine light trouble

« on: 01 April 2017, 01:44:23 »

Update,
today i finally had the time to plug in the scanner.
I did't had any real codes stored. it only gave a
"message" saying that it didn't recieve any revmeter signal
when the car is started. normally with the vertrix scanner at work
if you then highlight the message and press the ok button you then
get a code and more details. But highlighting wasn't available in this case.
so i called the troops in and they suggested replacing camshaft and
crankshaft sensors and see what it does. if not i can just return them to the
partsstore.(benefit of working at a garage  )
So i pretty much gone thru the entire menu of the car,
Then one of the guys suddely said to go a page back, and he pointed to the
ignition advance degree numbers when the car was idling and it gave  a abnormal
reading of 38 to 40 degrees advance 
He guessed that as the ecu regulates this, it could be that 40 is the maximum
possible and therefor it might be the EML lighting up.
what also might cause a high advance is a bad timingbelt change or it has jumped
a tooth on the part responsible for timing.
We shall see next week how the car behaves with the new sensors.

9

Omega General Help / MV6 engine light trouble

« on: 28 March 2017, 23:05:10 »

hi,
After selling my 99 caravan last week i ran into an 96 MV6 for 400€. i was looking for a 3.0 to use as donor for a 1964 opel rekord but thats besides the issue. because the MV6 still has MOT till september and only issue was a leaking coolin hose i decided to see how good it still runs and what parts need attention. even as it has had 10+ owners the car seemed to be pretty good looked after. only minor issues like the rear sunshade, electric passenger seat, alarm and faded headlights, everything works like a charm. The only other issue is that when driving arround relaxed at city speeds the engine light goes on and of almost all the time. when i decelerate it usually goes on and as soon i hit the gas it goes out again. on the highways theres no issue. at first i tought it was maybe a case of bad fuel as i noticed it first when i filled her up but have refueled it from other places and its still the same.
and what puzzles me the most is that the car doesn't act strange at all, no lumpy idle, backfires, heavy fuel consumption(i just done 150km with an average of 8.3l/100km at 140km/h, less then my 2.5) or loss of power it just keeps buzzing like she should.
So far i did not find time to read the ECU but will come tomorrow.
anyone here had the same issue. i did google for it but nothing came up like this.

10

General Car Chat / Re: Pro touring project Opel Rekord A 1964

« on: 26 February 2017, 22:28:45 »

thx for all the interest
what bigger engines is concerned others also suggested to use a v8. lol i even have a spare chevy small block from my Gmc vandura but NO.
the original idea was to use an old straight six chevyblock but it will not fit unless i cut and move the firewall back.
my choice to use an omega is first of all its alot easier if you use a donor from the same manufacturer. you basicly use a more evolved model
then the project car so you will still come across alot of similar basic items AND just as important the way they are mounted onto the car itself.
i also look to weight distribution. if i would fit a v8 it would get noseheavy and for cornering not good.
the shorter 3.0 V6 i have enough room and gives me the advantage of putting the engine more back over the front axle to improve weight distribution
and handling. and if i can add the entire rear suspension from the omega and move back the batterie to the trunk i will get pretty close to a 60/40
or even 55/45 front to back weight making it a really nice road/track car EVEN with the automatic transmission witch i'm keeping btw
and last but not less important the electronics department. as the omega is a pre canbus car i can splice cut and add all wiring needed or not needed
without having to worry about canbus protocols. and also i can use my kenwood radio with usb and built in parrot from my estate that also has the ability
to communicate with the dashboard TID screen and steering wheel buttons to keep the factory look.
the most difficult will be trying to fit the omega interior into the rekord and adapting the climate control system and pipes for the ventilation and airco
metal you can weld wires can be cut but you will always see a wrong cut in a dashboard.
oh speaking of the omega dash, for those who done it i will make it easier to replace the heater core.
i done it on my estate the official way by taking out the dash. even drove arround for a week with all wires hanging out
and even police calling me they tought someone stole my radio airbags and all. then telling them it was ok as i was waiting for an extra part

11

General Car Chat / Pro touring project Opel Rekord A 1964

« on: 26 February 2017, 02:08:17 »

Hello,
Last august i treated myself with a new old daily driver in the form of an unrestored 1964 opel rekord A 1700.   
This model was the last that rolled of the line before GM bought opel BUT the body styling was done by them after
their famous Chevy Nova and Chevelle models. Because of economical reasons they have used the rolling chassis
from the previous models dating back to 1937 and was also the last model using a 6 volt system.
the 1700cc engine has a jawdropping 60HP and a dazzeling topspeed of 85mls/h and 8" drumbrakes all arround with no
booster. it does run great for its age but for daily driving it just comes short for safe highway commuting.
My first idea was to do an engine swap with one of the newer CIH engines used in the sucessor....Untill i got this offered to me
I was able to get hold of a 96 omega MV6 full option with absolutely no rust and entire service history for 400€. it has 240.000 km on de dash
and even a recent MOT. Only the leather driver seat has been replaced by a normal one but still has the full electric base, and the electric shade
in the back is broken but fixable.
First of all i do realise that i will step on some omega fans hearts by saying that i'm going to use this as a donor car for my rekord.
I don't want to do an engine swap and go, my goal is to go as far as possible in using as much as possible, call it recycling an omega into a rekord body
so engine tranny driveline suspension right down to the usable electronics and just disable unused with the "My Naff Code Reader" software.
i think that all of the omegas nom noms put into a rwd car that weighs 600kg less will make a pretty fun rubber burning little monster that not
only goes like hell in a straight line but just as fun going arround a corner and stop on a daim so all safety aspects are met to make a responsible road/track car
and not just some "frankenstein hotrod unsafe tiewrap and ductape hold together thing that barely passes MOT.
the rekords bodyshell will also be strenghtened with aditional sheetmetal on vital places to handle the HP's and torque.
only the front suspension will stay. reason for this is because the bodyshells design is not calculated to impacts from struts but as the rekord was available
also in a (badly cooled) straight six. stiffer springs are available to take the heavier engine without problems.
steering i dont see alot of issues as the basic layout is identical, but i do fancy the omegas independent rear suspension and limited slip so i will try to get it adapted
to get rid of whats now leafsprings and axle
if you have any toughts or ideas i will be happy to hear them
best regards,
ratboy

12

General Car Chat / Re: saying farewell to my omega....or...

« on: 11 October 2016, 11:15:34 »

Like all conversions there will be a way to do it given enough time, resources and knowledge.

My days of swapping engines etc from one model to another are in the past.

I like the idea of the Omega powering the '64 Rekord and hope you get round to doing it.

The dashboard on the Omega sounds like it resembles a 70's disco

Keep up the good work

Well there are quite some similarities even with 40y between them. The steering setup is besides the servo and. Some lenghts identical but the engine bay of the rekord has more then enough room to fit that pump. Same goes for the engine and trannysupport so mainly measuring out an welding new brackets. The rear independent axle wont be used i think cuz the setup on the omega is quite elaborate and do like the old solid axles but will change the leafs for bags and 4-link setup.  I think the axles from like an admiral or similar preferably with the same 5lug would do the job and preferably locking diff and the rear omega disks
Front wheels might need a deeper look at it and might need custom work.
The original swaybar from the rekord will move to the back to help out and the heavier omega will take its place in the front .  the rekord body was never designed to handle 200hp so adding the braces from the convertible might do the trick.  Most stuff i have looked into but will change where needed as we go..
What the omega dash is concerned its not like the entire thing starts to blink it goes. To red as the redlines is reached but for the rest its a grey'ish white lights with only up down buttons in red to go up and blue to go down.
What the display is concerned i just divided it in 4 . so the topline where radio functions are is white and soft blue for the two under it and the light from engine check in the corner has 2red leds that are masked of when that part of the display is blacked out . so when it goes on you get a bright red "check" that will draw your attention right away. Its pretty simple to do and i havent seen anyone do this like i did so no disco on board just warns you when needed. I hate over the top things. But i do have to put my twist on things without looking "tuned"

13

General Car Chat / saying farewell to my omega....or...

« on: 11 October 2016, 02:28:32 »

Hi guys,
I have my omega caravan (100 aniversery) for lil more then a year. And what a year it was. The first half year i had spend my time fixing the common interior issues( doorcards, heating seats, finding a brandnew old model kenwood radio that had bluetooth parrot, usb AND still keeping full integration for steering wheel and display. Kenwood made only 2 models in 2008 and 2009, before converting to canbus protocoll systems.) and an entire custom made led conversion thruout the car. Complete with revdepended colorchange  dashboard and triple color mid display. Anyway....
The next 6m i have spend fixing camcoverleaks, rear wheel bearings, radiator that had a cracked platic end, followed by indeed the HBV and offcourse the heatercore inside that i replaced as it is normally done.(you can actually drive the omega without a dashboard even gotten a call from the police at a festival this summer telling me someone had broken into the car and stole my airbags, radio ,the entire dashbord was missing. So told him i knew as i was working to fix the heating on it. He asked me how i could safely drive it that wat. Uhm bluetooth odb reader and connected smartphone gave me what i needed to know
Sorry for floating of subject.
Now last week i suddenly saw a big wet patch under the back of the engine(2.5 v6 need i say more)
Just as i was going to set it for sale as 85€/month on roadtax alone is getting the better of me(actually its the misses who was always yappin on about it )
I have a few things i can do.
A leave as is and just scrap it and get 65€ for it
B fix the coolant leak, worst case replacing headgasket( a set of elrings and bolts would cost me about 50€ and a few days work and sell it for arround 1000€
Or
C and why i actually started this post
3Weeks ago after a falling out with the ol lady about the omega i agreed on selling and buying a cheaper to drive car on the condition that i would do it MY way.
So this resulted in me buying a 1964 opel rekord A (here woman NO taxes to pay, 1700cc 4 speed that uses about 7liters on 100km and a 20€/monthly insurance for daily use) she has her way and i have a car styled by the same team that designed the impala and nova from GM and looks lovely. I payed 1500€ delivered to my door and spend another 1000€ replacing the entire four drum brakesystem to the last bolt. Safety first horsepower and look later.
So just now i was thinking to strip the omega and sell it in parts, but keeping the engine, tranny ,wiring, brakesystem and parts of the drivetrain for future use in the rekord.
I see what needs fixing on the engine and add some other parts to get it to arround 200hp. That allong with the 4disk system(without ABS)would make it a little sleeper beast
The wiring should be splittable i think as its pre canbus so i can take whatever wires needed and lose the rest.
For now its mainly a brainbubble because the rekord is driving great, but having a whopping 60hp and (a dstoners lightning topspeed of 135km/h in todays traffic its just not enough umph to get allong nicely in situations.
Does anyone here has had done these things maybe ?
A few years back i did help to do an upgrade similar like this to an old volvo 262 bertone, but then we had help from a volvo dealer team. There we took a low mileage volvo 960 and basicly used every part and retrofitted it to the old body INCL airbags abs and all options that the 960 was fitted with. It was specially made for the ceo of the dealership that retired and had the two cars stored at their old location.
So any thoughts ideas suhgestions are welcome.

14

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: ECU information

« on: 06 January 2016, 14:48:29 »

If you google for car HUD you should find something usable. I have a system installed that projects all ODB data i have set on my windshield. You even have systems that also project the gps details (if factory installed navsystem)

15

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: communication issue between my car and china clone software

« on: 06 January 2016, 12:14:26 »

I think you have answered your own question with "china clone interface"

Sorry, but I don`t think the guys on here will let you discuss anything illegal on here   

Okay then, if so they can remove it. Just fyi even as its a china clone i do have a serial number i need to fill in before i can update the software and no patches i need to install or anything. I will have a look at the update website and contact them. I was just wondering if it was anything on the car as the rest works as it should.
Thx anyway