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Messages - Omega Steve

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1
Omega General Help / Re: Running Temprature Not Right ?
« on: 09 May 2008, 09:22:07 »
Quote
When the climate control is selected ON the aircon fans at the radiator run continuously, as they also move air through the "normal" radiator this tends to cool it quite a bit.

As you say it takes a long time to warm up, and the temp changes considerably with/without climate on ....  my first and instant thought is a stuck open thermostat

:(

Entwood, yes it takes ages to warm up, i can drive at lest 5 miles before temp starts to register. So possible thermo then hmmmmm i will check it out, thank you

Steve

2
Omega General Help / Running Temprature Not Right ?
« on: 09 May 2008, 09:12:28 »
Hi everyone,

After some major work replacing cylinder head, some main plumbing pipes, cleaning out a blocked HBV i am having some temp issues, when the climate control system is off the temp of the system is spot on (although it takes a long time before the temp begins to rise) but then operates normally, fans cut in and keeps temp around 85/90 etc, when the climate control system is on (AC or regular Heat) the temp just stays just over minimum, I do get heat in the cabin but nothing to jump up and down about.

I was wondering if i have plumbed in my HBV correctly, does anyone have a diagram or desc. of what pies go where, or does this sound like thermostat or matrix issues ?

Thanks
Steve

3
Quote
Could be that the fuel pump is on its' way out.

One way you can test it is to remove the return line back to the tank, extend this with a bit of fuel line into a suitable container and run the engine at idle whilst checking the flow rate. At a guess, you should see around 3 litres per minute or more out of the return line.

If that appears OK I would suspect a faulty fuel pressure regulator or blocked injector(s).

Alternatively, could be an air leak in the induction system causing air to enter the system without passing the MAF.

Don't suppose the air filter is clogged?

Kevin

Cheers Kevin, ive got it working now.....

Right here is the deal, when i put the ECU back in i went to the nearest petrol station (also where i got the jerry cans worth from) and stuck a score in, this is also when i realised i had this fuel starvation problem, anyway to cut a long story short i ran that down to red troubleshooting this new problem, went to Sainsburys and stuck 40 quid in (half a tank) give or take and when i got to a (/) road i opened her up and the problem has now gone, so i can only conclude....

A) The petrol from the nearest garage is tainted or
B) The problem will re occur when the fuel gets to around quarter tank meaning i have a problem with the fuel pick-up.

Im more incline to go with option A but time will tell.

Car is now running like it should except on idle its jumping up and down a bit (it was doing this before my saga began) so ICV off tomorrow for a good clean.

Guys, thanks very much will all your help and suggestions though out my ordeal.  :y

4
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Classic blocked fuel filter symptoms!

Indeed, but not the case for me (asif i would get an easy problem)lol, replaced fuel filter, no change, however, when i turn the key to ignition i can no longer hear the fuel pump priming ? ? or at least that's what i think i used to hear, sounded like it came from drivers side, underneath, but on the other hand if the pump was not working would the car even run ? Its fine running around town, occasionally stalling at junctions, but take it on the (/) and as soon as you put your foot down the car acts up, reduce the revs it seems better and you can build up speed fine (just not in a hurry) lol

5
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Thats the outfit I have used before and they are very good generally.

As for the smoke, do check the obvious.....i.e. airfilter, fuel filter etc.

Almost There.......

Right, the smoke was mainly down to having too much oil in the engine, i removed to the max level (about a litre) and that seems to have stopped.

As for the lack of power, well, losing the excess oil has helped but it has identified that I'm not losing compression or electrical power but i seem to be losing fuel feed, just going to get a fuel filter and start from there.

It is running ok but if you put your foot down lets say on a nice long straight you can keep your foot down and the engine will stop revving for a about 3/4 secs and then carry on, and then repeat, asif its running out of fuel and then not, its not that noticeable at low speeds.

I would not be surprised if the filter is partially blocked, with this problem i have ran the tank empty 4/5 times and a month ago it had two treatments of Redex.

Will report back..

PS: The ECU repair place is not far from you Mark, it cost me £129.00 for a rebuild of my own ECU, but i did have a few administration issues , first of all i called to see if they had received my ECU and the quote i was originally given was upped to 180+vat which i took as maybe i had not heard them right in the first place, but when it came to paying it was in fact £108+£8 shipping+vat and for some reason they forgot to dispatch my ECU and that caused 2 days delay but apart from all that i was happy with the service especially the price and it has a 2 year warranty and the main thing is they have actually repaired it.

6
Quote
I have decided to send of my ECU to a company called ECUtesting.com based in Nottingham to be honest they were the first people i called who quoted me 100.00 + vat for a rebuild of my ECU, I then phoned a store not that far from me who laughed and said he would not do it for that, thought i was having him on so i will see if they deliver the goods, so far they have been very professional and competent.

To be honest when i looked at the BBA website i thought they were in the business of selling new ECUs so i started looking around.

I will let you know the outcome... thanks everyone, especially Kevin and Mark for staying with me on this.

Cheers
Steve

Right........................

Got the ECU back today from ECU Testing . com and it has resolved the problem with the injector malfunction, EML is no more..... but before i write a success story i do have a new problem which at first glance seems quite serious but i need to look into it further.

Basically, engine is running on all 4 now and ticking over nicely, when i went out for a spin i noticed a minor lack in power when the car gets to around 50 mph, then a major lack of power followed by a load of thick (i think it was blueish) smoke from the rear exhaust which returns to normal when power is reduced and car is driven at low speeds ?

Im off to borrow a compression test to check that but im worried there may be some issues with the oil rings but im not concluding that just yet.

Its a shame because i have done a lot of work in one go which doesnt help, i now have a second hand cylinder head which i dont know the history of and perhaps (although i checked all the valves) might be causing some issues.

7
I have decided to send of my ECU to a company called ECUtesting.com based in Nottingham to be honest they were the first people i called who quoted me 100.00 + vat for a rebuild of my ECU, I then phoned a store not that far from me who laughed and said he would not do it for that, thought i was having him on so i will see if they deliver the goods, so far they have been very professional and competent.

To be honest when i looked at the BBA website i thought they were in the business of selling new ECUs so i started looking around.

I will let you know the outcome... thanks everyone, especially Kevin and Mark for staying with me on this.

Cheers
Steve

8
Quote
So the output is shorted in the ECU.....

Thanks Mark, yes it looks that way,  :'( at least i know what's wrong now.

Do you think its possible to repair this on the circuit board, would this be like a resistor, solder joint or would it most likely be a chip in there.

I think i might have to send the unit away for repair, do you think that would be the best way to fix it as i will keep the codes etc on my unit.

Steve

9
Sorry Kevin, yes, i did mean open circuit


Right, when i disconnect the ECU, Injector one + side returns to normal (open circuit)


10
Ok, that was very Interesting, i think.

Measured the Ohms on all 4 and number 1 is what i think the term is called grounded.

results were

Injector 1 +  00.6
Injector 1 -   01.2

Injector 2 +  0
Injector 2 -   01.2

Injector 3 +  0
Injector 3 -   01.2

Injector 4 +  0
Injector 4 -   01.2

So i guess Injector 1 should not be giving a reading on the + side, also i get a closed circuit between that and 0V unlike the other 3 injectors which are open circuit.

Hmmmmmm

11
Quote


Correct, the chassis is all 0V but, is not earth. Unless you have driven a bloody great spike into the ground and connected the car body work to it![/quote]


LMAO : Ok i get it, (but maybe that will help my injector to work) lol only j/k

I will let you know what results i get from the Ohms test, thx Mark.

12
[/quote]
The engine/chassis is all 0v.  There is no earth on a car (unless you have the earth straps that rub on road).  Its technically incorrect to call the chassis earth, but many people do.[/quote]

ah, I see what you mean.....

13
Ok, this might sound crazy but how do i do that ?

I have measured the resistance of the actual injectors and they were 14.5 Ohms

Where do i get a 0V from ? and i will go check them all now, (you do mean all 8 connectors off the loom that plugs onto the injectors right) ?

I always thought the chassis of the car was all 0V earth ?

Thx

14
Sorry Mark, I don't think so, what do you mean exactly ?

Negative of each plug to earth of car ?

Im treading water a little here with the electronics but im confident i will get to the bottom of it, lol, i hope.


15
Interesting...... I will check it all out.....

Cheers Guys...... will let you know how it goes....

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