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Messages - RallyArde

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1
General Car Chat / Re: Cam belt query.
« on: 22 August 2025, 17:54:11 »
Actually there are two version from 1.6 litre pinto, Cortina had with "16" block and later Sierras had "165" block also known as an emax engine, which didnīt bent valves if the cam belt would snap off. Iīve used to own 3 Mk1 Sierras before moving to Omegas as there were no reasonable (enough cheap) RWD option that Ford could offer in the 2000s ;D

EDIT: BTW I had in one my Sierras an engine that had 205 bottom end (from 2.0 litre) and cylinder head from older 1.6 pinto, but I had adjust spark advance a bit later to avoid detonation under accleration... Also got a burton BF134 cam and hard pad followers on the that engine.

2
Breaking the silence with my daily driver... ;)

https://youtu.be/fBh8cTYh_EM

Few more minor things left to be done anymore :)

3
Iīm not completely sure which one your arguments you are actually standing for?

What are the alignment settings?

The steering shouldn't feel overly light, but there's always a very slight dead spot straight ahead... This is a normal side effect of a steering box when compared to a rack, but weird is never a positive description. :-\

=allignment was incorrect.

Whilst still shit, one brand of cheap tyres will perform unpredictably under certain conditions when compared to another.

If everything is playing free at the back and you haven't changed anything then I don't see how it can be an alignment issue  :-\

To properly check the diff/rear subframe mounts, support but DO NOT lift the diff with a jack. Then undo one of the mount carriers. If the frame falls off, then the mount is done. Refit and repeat the other side.

You won't get any noise when these fail, but it will allow the weight at the back of the car to move in ways that you can't predict.

=allignment is ok, but subframe is loose (despite all round new bushes)

You need better tyres.

The omega isn't particularly tail happy as a rule.

I've lost the rear of a Vectra C estate more times than any rwd car I have owned. Even the S500 which currently has no ABS/Traction Control.

=tyres arenīt good enough.

It's one thing to chirp they tyres pulling out of a junction expeditiously >:D

But if you're trying to slide it at every opportunity, then you'll eventually run out of talent. With luck you'll only damage your ego and the car... :-X

=Iīm a poor driver?


Well... Iīm an amateur thatīs for sure, allthough my point is not to exceed my own or cars limits, that would be stupid and dangerous. But the first three arguments that I quoted are bit against each other :-\ 


4
I wouldn't consider any of those tyres to be good.

Iīm in tight budget ;D

To be honest, I had set Goodyears (225/45R17) in BMW, and they donīt offer endless grip either, rear will break out, but from higher speed, when you pushing it. There is a difference between cheap and expensive tire, but thatīs not the reason of any cars nature.

5
You need better tyres.

The omega isn't particularly tail happy as a rule.

I've lost the rear of a Vectra C estate more times than any rwd car I have owned. Even the S500 which currently has no ABS/Traction Control.

Well.. maybe Iīve had three deceptions of that rule then ;D  All the Omegas that I had, share the same tendency to oversteer. Ofcourse if you turn the wheels too much in the beginning youīll break the frontend traction (as exceeding the slip angle of the front wheels ::)  ), thatīs for sure in every car. But regarding which profiled tyres Iīm using the rear likes to break first not the nose, and thatīs completely fine to me.

Iīve driven different sizes 225/55R16, 215/55R16, 225/45R17, 205/55R16 and from various brands, Kapsen, Nang Kang, Triangle, Ovation, RoadX, Nokia, etc.

Itīs the Omegas natural balance or thatīs how I feel it. Iīve had other RWD cars as well, Mk1 Sierras, 325i E90 and few FWDs. Omega certainly has the most predictable handling of these all ;)

6
Itīs been a busy month for me with my daily drive, so I havenīt been able to bring ny updates here, but first of all.. thanks again from feedback :)





At end of June I took the car to re-alignment. The mechnanic said that cambers at front were okay, but toe-angles were all wrong and the cars actual thrust angle was 0.05 :o  They corrected it and suprise suprise, it was drivable again! 8) On damp conditions itīs very slidy, but managable, you can feel rear and also re-gain traction without that horrible "water on ice"- effect. I would say that rear feels now more like a piece of butter on a hot pan, just like Omega should ;D



Last weekend it was +25 warm in here, so engine temperatures were near 90 and fans were kicking in quite often. And when  comes to driving/cornering on dry conditions, itīs obviously bit more snappy, cause traction breaks more violently, but again (at least for me) more managable and pretty easy to catch.

7
Ok, thanks for the information, maybe I use sealant as well in my installation :)

BTW Did you had a special tool to insert the hub back in without damaging the wheel bearing itself?

8
Some progress for this one :)

https://youtu.be/QpYjz1XK_zA

Canīt wait till next week... :D

9
I read through this topic, and it left me wondering, what was the outcome with O-ring/seal behind backing plate? Did you order an original one or used a generic O-ring?

I will be changing both backing plates (and wheel bearings) as well within next weeks to my daily driver :)

10
I think the GM documentation says you have to replace the bolt.  I do recall its a bugger of a bolt to remove, and you will have to find some way of locking the crank, as the bolt is proper tight!

Actually there should be a locking tool for the crank, KM 911, it sets to the fly wheel teeth and holds the cranks still while un-doing or tightening the bolt :)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/655687185

 

11
Omega General Help / Re: Omega 2.5 V6 TC light on
« on: 24 February 2025, 16:02:18 »
Is there chance to read error memory with vauxcom or some other proper diagnostic tool?

12
Omega General Help / Re: Which oil for V6?
« on: 24 February 2025, 16:00:50 »
Iīve used always 5w40 in my Omegas (2.2 and 3.0) with GM-LL-A-025, GM-LL-B-025 specifications or then Dexos 2. Numbers behind the oil can are as much important as the numbers in front ;)

13
Omega General Help / Re: Y26SE - starting then dying
« on: 11 February 2025, 08:06:56 »

14
Newbie Welcome Area / Re: P0136 O2 SENSOR FAULT
« on: 03 February 2025, 12:15:31 »
Might be a faulty connector or something in wiring loom of that particular sensor. If the error code is absolutely correct.

15
Minor update to this one and some future plans:



I bought new stainless steel exhaust.

In the spring Iīm going to replace fuel filter and make a better connector for the battery, weld some sheet metal to right side sill, and defiantely do re-alignment. The car doesnīt handle in the corners/when losing grip normally, there are new bushes all around so everythig is tip top and the only negative variable is the allignment, the equipment was wrehter calibrated wrong or the rear toe angles are causing these issues. The problem isnīt that "subframe is about to come off"- feel, the problem is that I donīt feel the rearend grip like Iīve done before with this in summer 2023 (despite having old crappy bushes in that time) and like feel other Omegas and every car Iīve driven by this far. Omega shouldnīt be hard to catch, thatīs just the case.

I still have the manual gearbox conversion back in my head, but maybe nor for this year...?

Aircon-system needs re-filling by the way ;D

Hopefully more driving and less repairing in this summer :)

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