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1

Omega General Help / Re: Simple Code Reader

« on: 17 June 2025, 16:06:47 »

Speaking about code reader, I have this vLinker that I use for my 2012 Astra J with OPL Manager (Polish app made for recent Opel/Vauxhall models).

vLinker on Amazon

Can I use this dongle on the Omega? And is there a preferred application that you can recommend ?

2

Omega General Help / Re: Massive Clattering Noise

« on: 10 June 2025, 09:50:38 »

My advice is simple:


the marks on the timing belt are a distraction, and aren't helpful even to position the belt initially.


Use a timing tool kit, and keep turning the engine through and adjusting the belt until all the marks on the tools line up every time.


Torque all of the relevant fasteners, and turn the engine through one more time.

Agree with this advice. But the fact that white marks are located in a place that will never match the teeth, makes me think the belt is mounted the wrong way. Check the writings references if they point to the right side (clockwise). I did this mistake the first time . Or those marks are only for the pre-98 timing scheme and in this case forget what I just said before

3

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Refurbish speakers for 15£

« on: 23 April 2025, 14:47:00 »

Hello everyone,

Last week I removed the door cards to check the speakers because they sounded like totally destroyed, and they were.

I ordered a set of 6" rubber suspensions and rubber glue on Amazon.

Prepare the speakers for the new suspension : remove the old suspension and gently degrease the surfaces. The Amazon suspensions were larger than the original speaker, and you have to remove the edge/lip all around to make a flat surface. To do this in a very easy way, just saw the edge every inch / 15mm, then with a pliers just bend the sections and they will break effortlessly. Then grind a little bit with 240 paper and degrease the surface.

Apply the glue on both the suspension and speaker, wait 10/15 minutes, and assemble in contact both parts. Firmly press the contact surfaces, and gentle adjust to have the suspension concentrical to the speaker. Always verify the cone is not touching the bore in the magnet by pushing the center with the finger. If it touches, adjust again the suspension in the way to free the cone. Speaker always on a flat horizontal surface, periodically check that the cone moves without touching. I say that because I didn't check enough, and the paper cone was quite deformed, result is the cone is slightly touching inside and on some piano frequencies we can hear it.

4

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Philips SC804

« on: 23 April 2025, 13:46:37 »

Ok I finally got the changer to load CD's and try to read them. It struggles a lot to find tracks and to stay on them, jumping every time the car drives over a small road irregularity.

BUT, plugged the jack to the L/R/GND lines and now it works just fine ! Until the changer's death

The jack is plugged to a Bluetooth receiver hidden in the glovebox

5

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: No brake lights, cruise control doesn't disengage while braking

« on: 22 April 2025, 09:46:00 »

Hello everyone !

Finally received the new switch, needed to be 2 persons to remove the old one without destroying it > press the brake the most you can, slide the red cylinder out to the maximum, disengage the 2 side hooks and it's free.

The new switch works perfectly, the brake lights and CRC finally react as they should.

I tried to understand why the old one was faulty, and I think it's pretty simple. When new, the switch rod (grey) is fully extracted. When the pedal pushes the rod the first time on uplift position, it slides in and set the uplift position by default. Inside there are several "clic" positions and each of them is a starting point for the internal actuator to switch on and off. I guess it's to be compatible with several pedal positions on the different cars it's fitted. On the old one, this starting point was broken inside, but there is no way to see it from outside. Thus, the pedal needed to be pressed very hard for the switch to eventually work on another starting point.

Here is a picture of the original part

6

Omega General Help / Re: Door card handle 3d model

« on: 18 April 2025, 09:57:00 »

I think he talks about the grab handle because it's shaped like a banana on the pre-facelift. I have the same issue as I needed to remove the door cards, I had to remove this banana handle to reach one screw, and it disintegrated into pieces (sort of flexible rubber that becomes sticky and looses its flexibility over the years).

The shape of this part is very difficult to replicate in 3D because it's an "organic" shape without real reference faces. It's like a thick rubber skin that goes around the plastic handle clipped in the door card. I know there is one person on Instagram that sells them new but I don't know if it's 3D printed or old stock.

7

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Sampler fan's bearing is shot

« on: 15 April 2025, 14:59:29 »

I cleaned all the dust on the PCB and the black cover too.

Then applied a drop of bicycle chain lubricant on the axle, didn't make the noise disappear. Another drop on the side where the magnetic face sits near the coil, then the noise was gone !







Excellent video support from that guy also :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W_-Q7ITIPvU&ab_channel=RCstagramJason%28Jinpyo%29

Great! Next issue now >>

8

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Sampler fan's bearing is shot

« on: 15 April 2025, 13:15:28 »

Ok sorry I post twice but I just found out this is the same thing on a lot of BMW.

Found this guy having the same issue of noisy fan, the part number is the same except the last number (Opel/Vauxhall 9341704 051, BMW 9341704 050).

http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/204985

Well, I'll try one drop of bike chain oil in the center bearing and make a feedback here, maybe also make a full maintenance guide

9

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Sampler fan's bearing is shot

« on: 15 April 2025, 11:09:56 »

Hello everyone,

Since I bought the car 2 weeks ago, it makes a buzz sound inside the climate control unit panel, where the sampler fan is located.

The fan is activated all the time from the moment you turn ignition ON, and it's quite loud.

Yesterday I removed the center dash panel to access the fan and eventually change the 5 bulbs.

When I turn the fan with the hand it makes a tic tic sound that clearly shows the bearing is dead. What can I do to fix this? The thing is completely soldered and I cannot find any spare parts even on RS components website. If I can save it I would prefer, because it works. I will clean the whole PCB and then, is it possible to lubricate without damaging the circuits ?



I searched here if someone had the same issue, and I found some information :
- It's possible to replace the fan by another similar, but you need to solder the supply wire in another place of the PCB. I didn't find where? Maybe 2 of the 4 pins of the small PCB on which one the fan is located? How to remove the old one without damage ?

10

Omega General Help / Re: Vibration noise few seconds after starting the car

« on: 10 April 2025, 15:33:53 »

Thanks a lot for the extra information

11

Omega General Help / Vibration noise few seconds after starting the car

« on: 10 April 2025, 14:57:25 »

Hello everyone,

As the car is new for me, maybe I don't get all the small particularities of it.

When I start the car, I can hear a noise like a vibration, and we can feel that vibration in the steering wheel. It lasts for a few seconds, maybe 20 or 30 seconds and then it disappears.

It sounds like a small pump or something running very high rpm, maybe totally normal, as I didn't find any post about that on the forum.

Can anyone tell me what it is just for peace of mind 

It's on 96' MV6

12

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: No brake lights, cruise control doesn't disengage while braking

« on: 07 April 2025, 11:22:50 »

- The dash harness currently on the car is a 2 wires for the brake switch
- The brake switch on the car has only 2 pins

Is it a manual or auto?

- On the electrical diagram from Haynes, circuit 462, there are only 2 wires (the 4 wires are only for turbo diesel as it's written TD near the S8 switch)

Be aware that CC on those diagrams can also mean Check Control, as well as Cruise Control


If your brake lights aren't coming on then obviously that precludes your safely being able to use the car at all.

Absolutely.

The car is an automatic.

I was aware about CRC and CC on the diagrams. Also, I can confirm another point : the "check" light is ON until we press the brake pedal. Here, it's always ON, until 30 or 40 times I press the brake, when I manage to disengage the CRC, then the "check" light turns OFF. The brake switch is giving the info to both CRC and CC then to the rear lights = that means it's the switch.

13

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Philips SC804

« on: 07 April 2025, 11:15:29 »

The connections from the CD changers are :
- Line in Left
- Line in Right
- Line in Ground
- D2B+
- D2B-

What I understand is that D2B is the protocol and the information travelling through both wires gives the radio unit the right information about the state of the changer. Thus, we should be able to know what is the resistance value there have to be between both wires to indicate the radio unit that the changer is in working state, indefinitely.

I got the service manual from the Philips DC012 but didn't find this value yet.

First I will try to repair the changer which is stuck, then if it works properly I may be able to mesure the value between both wires. Then remove the changer and put a resistance in place.

Or am I totally wrong ?

14

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: No brake lights, cruise control doesn't disengage while braking

« on: 04 April 2025, 10:19:05 »

Sorry guys but, I sum up quicky what I'v said before :

- The EU MV6 has cruise control from factory
- The dash harness currently on the car is a 2 wires for the brake switch
- The brake switch on the car has only 2 pins
- On the electrical diagram from Haynes, circuit 462, there are only 2 wires (the 4 wires are only for turbo diesel as it's written TD near the S8 switch)
- If I insist on braking several times, like 30 or 40 times in a raw, at some point the brake lights switch ON on the back and the cruise control disengage, which means they are on the same circuit

I leave for work travel now but next week I will post some pictures

15

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: No brake lights, cruise control doesn't disengage while braking

« on: 04 April 2025, 08:44:02 »

Thanks for the advice

The switch is from factory, it seats with no play, no tolerances. When the pedal is pressed, the actuator moves as it should.

Has someone already opened a faulty switch too see why they all brake down at some point ?

Maybe I will do if he's actually guilty