1
Omega General Help / Re: Belt Kit & Antifreeze question.
« on: 21 October 2025, 16:52:06 »
Aaaah la Chouffe elle fait mal aux cheveux 
Sorry I had to
Sorry I had to
- 03 November 2025, 03:17:46
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2
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Omega B1 "best" headunit?
« on: 20 October 2025, 09:10:58 »
Regardless the head unit, if you have the CD Changer you can unpin the R-L-Gnd from it and pin a 3.5 jack instead. You need to keep one CD in the changer for it to run and allow the R-L lines to stay activated.
Works fine and you have the best sound quality that is possible to get. Cassette adapter is really poor quality.
I personally plugged the jack to a bluetooth receiver so there is no wire running through the dashboard
Then, if you plan to install the Bose amp, you will need to find or recreate the wire harness, change all the speakers to 2ohms from Bose, and find the specific head unit to work with. And - imho - you will loose trunk space because of the amp tray.
Works fine and you have the best sound quality that is possible to get. Cassette adapter is really poor quality.
I personally plugged the jack to a bluetooth receiver so there is no wire running through the dashboard
Then, if you plan to install the Bose amp, you will need to find or recreate the wire harness, change all the speakers to 2ohms from Bose, and find the specific head unit to work with. And - imho - you will loose trunk space because of the amp tray.
3
Omega General Help / Re: Nonstarter
« on: 08 October 2025, 12:32:20 »
If you are sure there is no fuel coming out of the injectors, then it looks like there is something wrong with the injector's loom. Forgot to replug the connector near the coil at the back of the engine ?
4
Omega General Help / Re: Oil in radiator header tank.
« on: 30 September 2025, 09:40:23 »
The one removed from my 96 is aluminium
5
Omega General Help / Re: Oil in radiator header tank.
« on: 30 September 2025, 08:57:26 »
Of course, but Graham's Omega is a later one, assumed with a stainless steel one, and if it's broken it means any other later one can do the same because the part has maybe some weakness from its thin design.
Regarding the amount of work to change it, better to change it by a model made with a strong thick tube, and don't come back to it in 5 years
Regarding the amount of work to change it, better to change it by a model made with a strong thick tube, and don't come back to it in 5 years
6
Omega General Help / Re: Oil in radiator header tank.
« on: 29 September 2025, 17:20:54 »
The original one is flat
If you look on the 3rd picture on ACS website, the shape is a bit square for the cooler to fit correctly in the block
You can take a look at my topic here https://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=151703.msg2058124#msg2058124 but it seems the pictures are gone
If you look on the 3rd picture on ACS website, the shape is a bit square for the cooler to fit correctly in the block
You can take a look at my topic here https://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=151703.msg2058124#msg2058124 but it seems the pictures are gone
7
Omega General Help / Re: Oil in radiator header tank.
« on: 29 September 2025, 16:40:17 »
Hi mate,
I don't really know about the troubleshooting of this particular case. But I can give you some info about the oil cooler.
I replaced mine (preventive move) by a stainless steel one from ACS (Advanced Cooling System), which is Ukrainian supplier for a lot of Opel/Vauxhall parts.
https://acsparts.biz/en/maslookholodzhuvach-90412391-opel-saab.-nerzhaviiucha-stal/
The part is 113€, costs near 150€ after all customs and taxes.
It comes with both new o-rings. Then you need 4 new bi-material rings and 4 new metal rings for the 4 banjo bolts of the cooler itself and the cooling bridge.
My genuine one is still like new but it's the aluminum one, so I don't want to propose it to you
it could fail at anytime
I don't really know about the troubleshooting of this particular case. But I can give you some info about the oil cooler.
I replaced mine (preventive move) by a stainless steel one from ACS (Advanced Cooling System), which is Ukrainian supplier for a lot of Opel/Vauxhall parts.
https://acsparts.biz/en/maslookholodzhuvach-90412391-opel-saab.-nerzhaviiucha-stal/
The part is 113€, costs near 150€ after all customs and taxes.
It comes with both new o-rings. Then you need 4 new bi-material rings and 4 new metal rings for the 4 banjo bolts of the cooler itself and the cooling bridge.
My genuine one is still like new but it's the aluminum one, so I don't want to propose it to you
it could fail at anytime
8
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Add steering wheel controls to a 96' MV6
« on: 29 September 2025, 14:41:37 »
Hi everyone !
Some news about this little retrofit. I found a 98' steering wheel last week, the thing arrived two days ago, I already cleaned refurbished it with ColorLock repair kit
But the interesting part is to come. I removed the original steering wheel from my car, to verify the GM code on the rotative connector or "SRS ring". The one on the car is 90507512 : it's indeed the one with 4 wires (2 yellow and yellow/white for the airbag, and 2 brown and brown white for the horn's buttons)
Then made some research about the one wired for radio control, it's 90507514 which has 6 wires.
BUT
The car's loom that's plugged at the back of my 90507512 SRS ring has 6 wires. And all those wires colors match with the later model Omega.
You can see :
pin 1 = Brown (ground)
pin 2 = Brown/White (horn)
pin 3 = Red/White (radio control+ ?)
pin 4 = Blue/Red (radio control- ?)
pin 7 = Yellow/White (airbag to unit control)
pin 8 = Yellow (airbag to unit control)
It's as described on the Later Models diagram
And not corresponding the Early Models diagram, as there are only 4 wires coming out of the U20 (U20 is the SRS ring on both diagrams):
Now I must check where the two Red/White and Blue/Red go, should be at the back of the HU but pined to something non attributed on the radio while this HU is not compatible.
Opel already had pre wired car loom for this feature maybe from a certain year and month.
Some news about this little retrofit. I found a 98' steering wheel last week, the thing arrived two days ago, I already cleaned refurbished it with ColorLock repair kit
But the interesting part is to come. I removed the original steering wheel from my car, to verify the GM code on the rotative connector or "SRS ring". The one on the car is 90507512 : it's indeed the one with 4 wires (2 yellow and yellow/white for the airbag, and 2 brown and brown white for the horn's buttons)
Then made some research about the one wired for radio control, it's 90507514 which has 6 wires.
BUT
The car's loom that's plugged at the back of my 90507512 SRS ring has 6 wires. And all those wires colors match with the later model Omega.You can see :
pin 1 = Brown (ground)
pin 2 = Brown/White (horn)
pin 3 = Red/White (radio control+ ?)
pin 4 = Blue/Red (radio control- ?)
pin 7 = Yellow/White (airbag to unit control)
pin 8 = Yellow (airbag to unit control)
It's as described on the Later Models diagram
And not corresponding the Early Models diagram, as there are only 4 wires coming out of the U20 (U20 is the SRS ring on both diagrams):
Now I must check where the two Red/White and Blue/Red go, should be at the back of the HU but pined to something non attributed on the radio while this HU is not compatible.
Opel already had pre wired car loom for this feature maybe from a certain year and month.
9
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Add steering wheel controls to a 96' MV6
« on: 23 September 2025, 16:43:09 »
Ooooh my bad I didn't see the Later Models at the end of the Haynes
Ok it's very helpful, there are only 3 wires, one to the ground, the two others to the radio. The Blaupunkt Skagen is SWC compatible with the analogic system of different resistive variations, I guess that their connector only uses 2 terminals. They say on the user manual :
"The programmable SWC interface on this device includes analog steering wheel presets. The device works with analogue remote controls that controls functions through different resistance values (resistance matrix) at the connector (up to 2 control lines and 1x GND). Some remote controls are directly compatible, others require a SWC interface, like system with CAN for example."
I understood the Omega works with resistance matrix.
Then, the Skagen learns any button you choose in its menu, by activating the button on the wheel. They say : "In the VARIOUS > SWC MENU, with the right knob select the function you wish to program and confirm with the right knob. The unit will now wait for a signal from the streering wheel remote control and display PRESS KEY AT WHEEL CONTROL FOR 1SEC. Press the desired key on the wheel."
Meaning that you can program the << and >> buttons as answer the phone and hang up the phone plus volume up/down, start/pause, change source etc...
Well, I'm looking for a 98 steering wheel now
Ok it's very helpful, there are only 3 wires, one to the ground, the two others to the radio. The Blaupunkt Skagen is SWC compatible with the analogic system of different resistive variations, I guess that their connector only uses 2 terminals. They say on the user manual :
"The programmable SWC interface on this device includes analog steering wheel presets. The device works with analogue remote controls that controls functions through different resistance values (resistance matrix) at the connector (up to 2 control lines and 1x GND). Some remote controls are directly compatible, others require a SWC interface, like system with CAN for example."
I understood the Omega works with resistance matrix.
Then, the Skagen learns any button you choose in its menu, by activating the button on the wheel. They say : "In the VARIOUS > SWC MENU, with the right knob select the function you wish to program and confirm with the right knob. The unit will now wait for a signal from the streering wheel remote control and display PRESS KEY AT WHEEL CONTROL FOR 1SEC. Press the desired key on the wheel."
Meaning that you can program the << and >> buttons as answer the phone and hang up the phone
plus volume up/down, start/pause, change source etc...Well, I'm looking for a 98 steering wheel now
10
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Add steering wheel controls to a 96' MV6
« on: 23 September 2025, 16:03:20 »
I can't find anything about SWC in the Haynes. Should be at diagram 1000 to 1099 but I guess the L to T registration (94 to 99 models) doesn't mention any SWC as they use early diagrams
By the way, I apology because I found several topics talking about that in the forum. My first research didn't got any info but I might made a mistake in the spelling
The User Manual for the Skagen 400 DAB do mention the way it learns the commands : different resistive values for each button. But Blaupunkt doesn't give any info about how to connect the car loom to their SWC connector
By the way, I apology because I found several topics talking about that in the forum. My first research didn't got any info but I might made a mistake in the spelling
The User Manual for the Skagen 400 DAB do mention the way it learns the commands : different resistive values for each button. But Blaupunkt doesn't give any info about how to connect the car loom to their SWC connector
11
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Add steering wheel controls to a 96' MV6
« on: 23 September 2025, 13:45:06 »
Hi everybody,
I use the Omega for long journeys and even if I already managed to trick the HU to wire a jack on the CD changer channels, I'm still searching for a better user experience when it comes to "manipulate" the sound or receive phone calls. The sound is really very good for a non amplified system, an enhanced system with small amplifier and sub would complete the experience perfectly.
The car has the genuine Philips SC804 fitted. This HU has a rotative knob for the volume and it works with an "absolute orientation". I mean, the knob has a total stroke with a physical min and a physical max. Means that it cannot be used with steering wheel controls.
Now, 3 points :
- is the 96 MV6 wired ready for the steering wheel controls? If not, is it feasible to recreate the loom and retrofit a wheel ?
- the controls work with other genuine HU than the Philips SC804, I won't use a genuine HU anymore.
- the targeted HU is the Blaupunkt Skagen 400 DAB, which is ready for steering wheel controls. How can it be controlled ? Do the wheel buttons act over the MID to speak with the HU ? Do I need the 2nd gen MID ?
At the end... Is it feasible without Tech1/2 or is it a complete mess to work out ?
I use the Omega for long journeys and even if I already managed to trick the HU to wire a jack on the CD changer channels, I'm still searching for a better user experience when it comes to "manipulate" the sound or receive phone calls. The sound is really very good for a non amplified system, an enhanced system with small amplifier and sub would complete the experience perfectly.
The car has the genuine Philips SC804 fitted. This HU has a rotative knob for the volume and it works with an "absolute orientation". I mean, the knob has a total stroke with a physical min and a physical max. Means that it cannot be used with steering wheel controls.
Now, 3 points :
- is the 96 MV6 wired ready for the steering wheel controls? If not, is it feasible to recreate the loom and retrofit a wheel ?
- the controls work with other genuine HU than the Philips SC804, I won't use a genuine HU anymore.
- the targeted HU is the Blaupunkt Skagen 400 DAB, which is ready for steering wheel controls. How can it be controlled ? Do the wheel buttons act over the MID to speak with the HU ? Do I need the 2nd gen MID ?
At the end... Is it feasible without Tech1/2 or is it a complete mess to work out ?
12
Omega General Help / Re: Fuel level tank
« on: 08 September 2025, 14:48:39 »
The fuel gauge reads full
13
Omega General Help / Fuel level tank
« on: 01 September 2025, 15:37:57 »
Hi everybody,
I don't know if it's the car normal behavior but I find the level gauge a bit pessimistic. Over the total 75 liters, when the dash lights on and the board computer says less than 100km left, I only refill 55 to 62 liters every time. You can drive way more than 100km with 15 to 20 liters
It seems difficult to know if it's the gauge and light that is out of range, the level sensor in the tank, or the tank vapors that blocks the fuel gun
Have you already seen this kind of gap when you refill ?
I don't know if it's the car normal behavior but I find the level gauge a bit pessimistic. Over the total 75 liters, when the dash lights on and the board computer says less than 100km left, I only refill 55 to 62 liters every time. You can drive way more than 100km with 15 to 20 liters
It seems difficult to know if it's the gauge and light that is out of range, the level sensor in the tank, or the tank vapors that blocks the fuel gun
Have you already seen this kind of gap when you refill ?
14
Omega Gallery / Re: Polar Blue '96 3.0 MV6
« on: 30 August 2025, 11:47:25 »
Thanks for all the messages
I recently received all the parts needed to :
- Change front discs and pads
- z20let injectors to convert the X30XE to ethanol
- Replace spark plugs + ignition cables
- Replace both came cover gaskets (Loctite 5923 sealed )
- Replace front discs and pads
- Replace the oil cooler with specific stainless steel custom parts from ACS
- Replace the thermostat + double o-ring from the pipe
- Replace both complete tie rods + eye alignment with this very helpful guide https://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=103468.0 (will need a better setting of course but it's so much better than before just with this little tips)
- Replace the blinker's stalk
They were stuck, a good heat gun focused on the out cylinder of the disc and a good hammer + WD-40 eventually had them
Grease on the lip only (M539 Restorations best advice), brand new ATE discs and Brembo pads.
I replaced the complete tie rods because it was impossible to move the previous ones, even with WD-40, heat, vice grips... Easy task, and this is Moog parts
The ACS stainless steel oil cooler received from Ukraine, the part is 113€
, with 40€ shipping 
, and 30€ custom fees 
But it fits perfectly and is lifetime guarantee
After some hours to remove all the intake assembly, here we are. I must admit that I was not prepared for such a painful journey. Regardless the oil cooler, just to replace the ignition cables for example, it's clear that the engine and cable management was made for factory assembly, but absolutely not for maintenance ! This engine is way more difficult to work on compared to the same V6 in a Calibra / Cavalier The left bank cables can witness, they were from factory, never changed. They were inside the original gutter, clipsed to a plate, impossible to see, that I by magic managed to unclip just by the feeling of the pliers. On the right bank, one was from factory too. And the fact that the whole engine wiring running on the right bank must go out of the gutter to be able to change 3 spark plugs is insane. That car is unbelievably good but this particular case asks the question : Dr Indra Fritz (who made the c20xe) was the guy behind the x30xe, but it's clear he was not in charge of the peripheral elements Who is the person in charge of this back in the days? He deserves a medal of chocolate...
New oil cooler ready
For the washers, Opel cannot provide them anymore. I took the original ones that were torn (bi-material) and went to a truck hydraulics specialist. He gave me something from Iveco that was quite the same. Every bolt and washer from the coolant bridge and the oil cooler has been secured with Loctite 5923 on the contact faces. I didn't want to undo all that work for a leak
Came cover gaskets replacement
z20let injectors (I didn't take specific photos of that part)
New thermostat
The car now runs under ethanol and consumption is about 13.7L/100km with city and very dynamic drives (10.3L at the board computer). Yesterday I drove 1h30 on the highway, board computer says 8.3L. Then I will calculate at the next refill
I recently received all the parts needed to :
- Change front discs and pads
- z20let injectors to convert the X30XE to ethanol
- Replace spark plugs + ignition cables
- Replace both came cover gaskets (Loctite 5923 sealed
)- Replace front discs and pads
- Replace the oil cooler with specific stainless steel custom parts from ACS
- Replace the thermostat + double o-ring from the pipe
- Replace both complete tie rods + eye alignment with this very helpful guide https://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=103468.0 (will need a better setting of course but it's so much better than before just with this little tips)
- Replace the blinker's stalk
They were stuck, a good heat gun focused on the out cylinder of the disc and a good hammer + WD-40 eventually had them
Grease on the lip only (M539 Restorations best advice), brand new ATE discs and Brembo pads.
I replaced the complete tie rods because it was impossible to move the previous ones, even with WD-40, heat, vice grips... Easy task, and this is Moog parts
The ACS stainless steel oil cooler received from Ukraine, the part is 113€
, with 40€ shipping , and 30€ custom fees But it fits perfectly and is lifetime guarantee
After some hours to remove all the intake assembly, here we are. I must admit that I was not prepared for such a painful journey. Regardless the oil cooler, just to replace the ignition cables for example, it's clear that the engine and cable management was made for factory assembly, but absolutely not for maintenance ! This engine is way more difficult to work on compared to the same V6 in a Calibra / Cavalier
The left bank cables can witness, they were from factory, never changed. They were inside the original gutter, clipsed to a plate, impossible to see, that I by magic managed to unclip just by the feeling of the pliers. On the right bank, one was from factory too. And the fact that the whole engine wiring running on the right bank must go out of the gutter to be able to change 3 spark plugs is insane. That car is unbelievably good but this particular case asks the question : Dr Indra Fritz (who made the c20xe) was the guy behind the x30xe, but it's clear he was not in charge of the peripheral elements Who is the person in charge of this back in the days? He deserves a medal of chocolate...New oil cooler ready
For the washers, Opel cannot provide them anymore. I took the original ones that were torn (bi-material) and went to a truck hydraulics specialist. He gave me something from Iveco that was quite the same. Every bolt and washer from the coolant bridge and the oil cooler has been secured with Loctite 5923 on the contact faces. I didn't want to undo all that work for a leak
Came cover gaskets replacement
z20let injectors (I didn't take specific photos of that part)
New thermostat
The car now runs under ethanol and consumption is about 13.7L/100km with city and very dynamic drives (10.3L at the board computer). Yesterday I drove 1h30 on the highway, board computer says 8.3L. Then I will calculate at the next refill
15
Omega Gallery / Re: Polar Blue '96 3.0 MV6
« on: 01 August 2025, 12:12:07 »
To be honest I was absolutely not familiar with the Omega. It was clearly out of my scope a few months ago. Actually, I was looking for a C5 Hydractive HDi. I make the Nantes - Nice journey once a month, and even if the GTC is very comfortable and has a lot of nice features, I wanted to preserve it from high millage.
But, you're right, I'm familiar with other Opel / Vauxhall and I can admit that the Omega is really in a higher level regarding the quality of fabrication.
Clearly, this car would cost a lot if I would bring it to the service repair. Doing it myself is an unexpected learning experience.
At the end, when the Omega will run on ethanol, it will cost the same as my diesel GTC, with the V6 sound and smoother suspension
But, you're right, I'm familiar with other Opel / Vauxhall
and I can admit that the Omega is really in a higher level regarding the quality of fabrication.Clearly, this car would cost a lot if I would bring it to the service repair. Doing it myself is an unexpected learning experience.
At the end, when the Omega will run on ethanol, it will cost the same as my diesel GTC, with the V6 sound and smoother suspension