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Messages - zl600a1

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1
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: CCRT 700 Manual please
« on: 16 December 2008, 20:31:08 »
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i have one matey :y
::) ::)

Thanks...I have got one now from another member...

2
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: CCRT 700 Manual please
« on: 13 December 2008, 20:31:42 »
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I'm guessing its a 1999 model (last letter of VIN = X) ;)

I don't think that manual is available in pdf.  To be honest, I never read my manual for my ccrt700 - its pretty self explanatory...

The VIN number is: W0LD0VBM69X 1010779

The registration date is: 22/10/1998

What year would this make my Omega?

Thanks

Dave
1999 - last letter of VIN=X ;)

(thats 1999 Model Year)


Isn't that bizarre?

Car reg'd in 1998 but is a 1999 model...or is it a marketing ploy? Sell you next years model this year?

Cheers

Dave
That normal, the new model year tends to come in in the autumn, though dependent on what old stock the dealer and manufacturer has

Shows you how many times I have bought a new car!

3
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: CCRT 700 Manual please
« on: 13 December 2008, 20:16:39 »
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I'm guessing its a 1999 model (last letter of VIN = X) ;)

I don't think that manual is available in pdf.  To be honest, I never read my manual for my ccrt700 - its pretty self explanatory...

The VIN number is: W0LD0VBM69X 1010779

The registration date is: 22/10/1998

What year would this make my Omega?

Thanks

Dave
1999 - last letter of VIN=X ;)

(thats 1999 Model Year)


Isn't that bizarre?

Car reg'd in 1998 but is a 1999 model...or is it a marketing ploy? Sell you next years model this year?

Cheers

Dave

4
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: CCRT 700 Manual please
« on: 13 December 2008, 17:13:11 »
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I'm guessing its a 1999 model (last letter of VIN = X) ;)

I don't think that manual is available in pdf.  To be honest, I never read my manual for my ccrt700 - its pretty self explanatory...

The VIN number is: W0LD0VBM69X 1010779

The registration date is: 22/10/1998

What year would this make my Omega?

Thanks

Dave

5
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / CCRT 700 Manual please
« on: 13 December 2008, 14:27:38 »
I bought a second hand 1998 Omega 2.0 CDX but it did not come with the manual for the CCRT 700. Does anybody know where I can download one from?

Thanks

Dave

6
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you can get to the outside of the tube from behind the n/s front wheel, looks like a flattened black duck beak (bad description) just prise that open and scoop out the crud  :y

Thanks

I'll give it a go!

Dave

7
Ok so I found the scuttle drain but darned if I could unblock the plug. Here are the pictures of my scuttle drain on the passengers side:





I could not reach the plug properly but tried pushing a stiff plastic tube through it but got scared to put too much effort into it in case I busted something! How much force can I use?

Cheers

Dave

8
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My 1999 pre-faclift 2.0 CDX heater fan would not come on this morning. And given it was -7 degress C I do not blame it! Anyway I kept hitting the auto buttom on the climate control and then the fan speed and once it tried to fire up but coughed and died! So I looked at the fuse #33 and all was ok. So for some unknown reason I lifted the bonnet and then the fan started! So I shut it down and the fan has been fine since. I have driven the car 3 tiimes since today without any trouble at all.


Is this a symptom of further problems to come? Possibly a loose connection?

Any reasonable suggestions  ::) gratefully received!

Cheers

Dave
Has the scuttle drain over flowed into the cabin at any point that you know of? any signs of water damage in the passenger foot well or musty smell? When the drain blocks it tends to poor water over the fan motor, which cant be good for it. cant help any more than that I'm afraid, others will be along no doubt :-/


That all sounds too familiar for my liking!!!

Yes all of that. Sounds like the exact problem too me!!!

I found the technical help for clearing the scuttle drain here on this forum but where exactly is it? I can't quite work it out!

Cheers

Dave

It's the vented bits below the windscreen. You can get inside it by lifting the bonnet looking to the right (Passenger side ) and lifting the access panel. This is where all the crap gathers and blocks the drain hole.

HTH

Paul  :y


Paul,

Thanks for that!

Cheers

Dave

9
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My 1999 pre-faclift 2.0 CDX heater fan would not come on this morning. And given it was -7 degress C I do not blame it! Anyway I kept hitting the auto buttom on the climate control and then the fan speed and once it tried to fire up but coughed and died! So I looked at the fuse #33 and all was ok. So for some unknown reason I lifted the bonnet and then the fan started! So I shut it down and the fan has been fine since. I have driven the car 3 tiimes since today without any trouble at all.


Is this a symptom of further problems to come? Possibly a loose connection?

Any reasonable suggestions  ::) gratefully received!

Cheers

Dave
Has the scuttle drain over flowed into the cabin at any point that you know of? any signs of water damage in the passenger foot well or musty smell? When the drain blocks it tends to poor water over the fan motor, which cant be good for it. cant help any more than that I'm afraid, others will be along no doubt :-/

I know this forum is for Omegas but...

My wife has a Rover 214si which suffers from water in the passenger footwell, could this be the same cause?

Cheers

Dave

10
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My 1999 pre-faclift 2.0 CDX heater fan would not come on this morning. And given it was -7 degress C I do not blame it! Anyway I kept hitting the auto buttom on the climate control and then the fan speed and once it tried to fire up but coughed and died! So I looked at the fuse #33 and all was ok. So for some unknown reason I lifted the bonnet and then the fan started! So I shut it down and the fan has been fine since. I have driven the car 3 tiimes since today without any trouble at all.


Is this a symptom of further problems to come? Possibly a loose connection?

Any reasonable suggestions  ::) gratefully received!

Cheers

Dave
Has the scuttle drain over flowed into the cabin at any point that you know of? any signs of water damage in the passenger foot well or musty smell? When the drain blocks it tends to poor water over the fan motor, which cant be good for it. cant help any more than that I'm afraid, others will be along no doubt :-/


That all sounds too familiar for my liking!!!

Yes all of that. Sounds like the exact problem too me!!!

I found the technical help for clearing the scuttle drain here on this forum but where exactly is it? I can't quite work it out!

Cheers

Dave

11
Omega General Help / Heater temperamental! Typical in this weather!
« on: 10 January 2009, 16:47:59 »
My 1999 pre-faclift 2.0 CDX heater fan would not come on this morning. And given it was -7 degress C I do not blame it! Anyway I kept hitting the auto buttom on the climate control and then the fan speed and once it tried to fire up but coughed and died! So I looked at the fuse #33 and all was ok. So for some unknown reason I lifted the bonnet and then the fan started! So I shut it down and the fan has been fine since. I have driven the car 3 tiimes since today without any trouble at all.

Is this a symptom of further problems to come? Possibly a loose connection?

Any reasonable suggestions  ::) gratefully received!

Cheers

Dave

12
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you're in east sussex, and i'm on the sussex/surrey border... perhaps we can see a plan forming...  :y

Thanks but I'll give it a go this summer...I like a DIY challenge!

13
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vauxhalls do small cans of colour match with the laquer. about 12 i think they were

I have those, but do they "blend" in ok?


There's no reason why they shouldn't, are they aerosol cans?

the biggest challenge anyone faces even when in a proper sprayshop is knowing how much product was put on as standard, you see, the more you put on the darker it gets!

As a rule go for  2 coats of base coat (the silver) followed by 2 coats of clearcoat (laquer)

Also befoer you begin, it might be worth checking what colour primer is used, as the colour of the silver will be affected by this.

So, you got your primer / basecoat silver / clearcoat ;

Using dry sanding and a mask, rub back the rust spot till you get back to the bare metal.

Apply some form of rust treatment - if you can get it, etch primer, its like an acid that eats into the surface of the metal like a galvaniser.

By now it's all going to look a bit ropey, and more than likely it's about 3 inches bigger than the original blister, but don't worry!




Now for the fun part - ish!

Apply two coats of primer, filler primer is best as it has volume.

Be mindfull to use a sanding block throughout, and let the abrasive on the paper take the filler off, not the weight and strength in your arms.

Get a can of cheap black spray, and give the surface a quick dust - litterally just darken it, no more!  This is called a guide coat.
The guide coat helps you see what is a high spot and what is a low spot.
If it's a high spot, it will rub away, it it's low, it will stay until the surface has been smoothed to that level.

if you have some deep dents, get some body filler, ideally 'topstop gold' and spread a tiny amount on to the area you have the dip in. This is because your rubbing would have affected how flat this all is, and you need to bring the area back to flat before you can spray - or else everytime you look at it, you'll swear that there's a dent there!
Re-apply guidecoat, and rub.

When all guidecoat is gone, your surface is flat.


This will take time, and even in pro-bodyshops they might do this several times over before they're happy.

Now for the fun bit!!  ;D

Mask off the car so that you have a frame around 6- 12" (yes 6- 12) around the little area you need to spray., mask panels either side and also the area above, and side window.

The rubbing will have probably made this around 4" diameter anyway!

going from left to right (never do the up and down thing) apply two coats of silver.

Give this about ten minutes to flash off, then apply two coats of laquer.

All the while, you don't want to spray to the edges of your mask, or you'll get a hard edge.

if you go too fast, you'll get dusting, and if you go too slow you'll get runs.  practice on a peice of scrap wood or metal first, in fact it's probably worth practicing the whole procedure on something small first.

After this, it's time to admire your handywork, and leave overnight.

The final step is this:

Polishing -
using a 2000grit paper wet and dry, gently dull the surface, till even, and where you have overspray lightly dull this as well.  Don't go too hard or you'll bust through the laquer.

Get a cutting compound like farecla G3 and cut the dulled areas till they are lovely and shiney again.  if you really wanted to, you could then use a G10 as a fine compound.

Cover in your favourite wax - and job's jobbed  :y

It seems like a lot of work, but once you practice, you'll find that it's more methodical than anything else.

Any other questions just ask.   :y


Excellent, thanks...

Now I know what I am doing this summer!!!

14
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vauxhalls do small cans of colour match with the laquer. about 12 i think they were

I have those, but do they "blend" in ok?

15
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Looking at your picture I'd say the rust is very easy to remove, I would suggest you spray the whole door panel and make sure you have a correct match on the paint.

This link was posted on here last month and is very informative.


http://www.carsprays.co.uk/

Thanks for that...

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