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Messages - minilandrover

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LATEST  :(   it gets worse...I have rebuilt the original keyfob  :y ( the battery connections died one the other fob so i had to change bits over) ok original fob working Ir transmitted, back to the original cpu and ir decoder in the car, If we remove fuse 20 the car starts  :o but now we have no dashboard ign lights..no fuel speedo or rev counter etc  :o but the engine starts.. :P
and still the fob refuses to work with fuse 20 back in and still no dashboard instruments or ign light   :'( :'( :'(

2
Hi yes i would appreciate some help, i have tried two main cpu's together with their matching keyfob and decoder box ( behind the glovebox). all to no avail, the car is still fully immobilized so that was two complete systems and that included changing the ir receiver with the spare one as well.
Each time we turn on the ign to position one as position 2 is to crank the engine in my book, then we put the fob right up to the ir receiver and press and keep pressed so it gives the lock / unlock code then followed by the close the windows signal ( rapid flashing) still no reactin from the car. we have tried a data cable to a laptop OBD2 and it fails to be able to connect and read the cpu ( the cable and software work with a renault but fails on the omega b ) also tried two different softwares.
...NEWS FLASH while writing this my son removed fuse 20 and started the car!!! we then stopped the engine replaced the fuse and the car was dead again, removed the fuse again but this time had to remove and replace 6 times to TRICK a relay that can be heard inside the dash and she started again, This is with the original cpu and box behind the clove box to im going to rebuild the fob using the original circuit board and try locking and unlocking the car. How can fuse 20's removal be responsible ?? and why not every time.  Is there a relay inside the dash giving us all this grief?? Colin

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HI I had the car towed home ( Jesus the steering is heavy without the engine running) anyway we tried replacine the infra red fob with a spare from my old car i broke up, matching it with the old cpu and the old key code box behind the glovebox, and i also trie the other ir receiver :-\ :-\ :-\ in the roof. nothing worked, ign on and holding the fob up to the sensor and pressing the fob. zilch ... only once when the battery was almost flat did the warning red led on the allarm button on the dash flashed did the engine try and start but the battery was out, so we recharged the battery and tried again but to no avail. something seems to be telling the car not to re-mobilize i must admit im baffeled. all fused have been checked and the battery disconnected twice and all elements replaced with the spare set cpu under bonnet, comande box behind glove box, ir receiver, and keyfob. ( batterys new)  :'( :'( :'(

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Excellent tip opening the boot and charging the battery via the boot light,  i actually had the reverse   i removed the inner plastic valance from the boot while cabling up my amateur radio fittings and forgot to replace the plastic valance and the battery went dead after three days...the boot light stayed on because the valance was not there to push in the boot light switch... :-[

5
Hi i have a spare bonnet for a 94 omega in grey, only trouble is im in france!! but it is perfect, not even got any chips in it. I would gladly bring it over on my bike traylor when i come over but i do not know when that will be as im waiting to sell a classic motorcycle first... where do you live?  Colin

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hi yes i would be interested in anything that will get me running again. i tried the old keyfob from a dismantled omega same model i swapped main cpu under bonnet, the central locking box behind the glove box and the ir receiver and still no luck both fobs work code sent visible on my mobile phone cam . we have checked all the fuses too . i am thinking it's a wiring/ connector fault somewhere  colin

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my cruise control buttons have always been dodgy and at one time impossible to get working at night with the lights on, me thought an earth problem perhaps, but then sometimes it did work at night.  I will have to remove the switch and clean the old grease out i think, as its annoying for it not to work all the time.

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Omega Electrical and Audio Help / no responce from key fob
« on: 26 June 2012, 23:00:40 »
My car (omega b 2.5 tdi 1994 model) stopped receiving commands from the IR key fob, i have controlled the fob and it's sending an IR burst every time pressed and a series when held (command to close the windows) Also i have replaced and tested the IR receiver. and tried the reset...ign on, key up aginst the ir receiver and press ...nothing happens, No interior light flashes and no start!
I am getting the car towed home tomorrow, If i replace the main cpu ( i have a spare) will the spare only work with it's keyfob or will it accept my key fob by doing the reset procedure.  or is there another procedure for initialing a new or replacement cpu?  Hers hoping some one can come up with some useful info    colin

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Omega General Help / Re: THROW OUT THE CAT
« on: 26 June 2012, 22:48:08 »
Hi Guys  im the cat man and back to let you guys know if it hurt the car....NO it didn't... it's still going like a bat out of hell, and im loving it... saving fuel, though to be fair it did cost me a tire, cos coming out of my drive i booted it ( again) and went squealing down the road and tore off a strip of rubber from my tire. Im wondering if the omega has a limited slip diff cos even in the snow or mud i never get one wheel spin,and loose drive, i always get drive to both wheels or enough to pull my self out of the mud. Anyway im diverging or something, the cat mod works just fine, turbo power is on tap at 2000 rpm, and the power available from 2000 to 4250 is usually enough to leave everyone else behind, no need to go screaming up to 5000+   the turbo limits it's self to 2 bars? the pressure guage sweeps up to full power in a couple of seconds then gives a little negative kick as the limiter valve pop's open but the pressure stays up there. then it's time to back off or find another gear to play with.   So have any of you guys tried it yet?  I do however have a big problem with the car today. it would not let me in. i had to unlock the door by key and the infra red key and transmitter are working but i am unable to do a reset or get the reciever ( i popped in a spare one i had) to talk to the cpu and let me drive home.

So i posted a question, if i swap the cpu unit for my spare one will it accept my key ( doing the reset manouver) or will it expect and demand the old key code? I have the old infra red transmitter but have stripped the board for the buttons and battery spring, I can rebuild it but would preferre sticking with my repaired keyfob. the key is working as ive tested it with my phone and i can see the ir pulses. can anyone help? mt topic is posted earlier today

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Omega General Help / key fob lockout cpu replacemt required?
« on: 26 June 2012, 17:20:28 »
 :-[hello everyone, my 94 2.5tdi omega diesel has decided it does not want me to drive it anymore. The keyfob refused to let me in, and after getting in by key, refused to un immobilize the car. I did the usual reset , ign on and keyfob next to receiver and tried resetting but nothing, The key fob works ( tested the ir signal output ok) and replaced the ir receiver with a spare unit. I have the four wires to the receiver 1, 12v  2, signal out to cpu 3.6v  3, earth/ ground,  4 12v when ign on.
I have also dis and re connected the cpu and the same with the battery. Has my cpu failed?   I have a spare cpu from another 2.5 omega i dismantled, if i change cpu's will it reprogram to my key? by doind the ign on and key fob next to he receiver trick?  or will i have to rebuild my old key robbed for battery contacts and switch,? and try again..
at the moment my car is at the local post office so i might have to get it towed home....colin :'(

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hello there, i bought a set of blue 100 h1's from china, cost about 8 euros delivered to france, they are fine but one  went dark after a few weeks. just bad luck, the problem with higher wattage bulbs though is that they will draw more current, ok we all have got a big alternator so no worry, but the wiring has to handle twice the amperage, and if you get a voltage drop on any bulb the light will be dimmer. :-/ in fact a 100w bulb that only gets 11.6v will be dimmer that a 50w bulb getting 13.6v. so measure the voltage and if the drop is worying then fit a decent relay to each buld, powered by very thick cable straight from the battery. result is very bright instantly lighting lights.  8-) mine are great, oh and t cut your lenzes if they are dirty, helps too. :y
colin

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Omega General Help / Re: THROW OUT THE CAT
« on: 27 June 2011, 19:27:20 »
Well i am just wondering how many other omega owners have done the mod. and has anyone had the power at the rear wheels measured before and after? There is a nice woods near where i live and a nice long straight. i might just film a run then try and calculate the 0-60 0-100 time and check it against known figures for the standard car, bearing in mind mine has done 330,000 km's  but for a car that weighs 1.5ton's it's going like a bat out of hell, im not bothered how fast  it goes, just how fast it gets going . can anybody time their tired 2.5 diesel 0-60 and 0-100mph? and post some figures.  ;)  so no cheating spare wheel in the boot and a tank of fuel. ok?  :y

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Omega General Help / THROW OUT THE CAT
« on: 27 June 2011, 00:04:21 »
Hello All you guys with a 1994-1996 omega diesel 2.5, is you engine still kicking out 130bhp?  need a power boost ? want some fun???
Well after repairing my injector pump that started leaking (see my other posting) i fixed the pump, and made good use of the fact the front of the car was off the ground. i had allready opened up a spare front exhaust Cat pipe and done the cat mod. it takes about 1 hour to modify the pipe and one hour or less to swap pipes or remove and refit a modded pipe. So what's the big deal? Well removing the catalyser or cat for short from it's housing and welding it up again means the engine is no longer wasting loads of energy trying to push exhaust gasses through millions of pinholes in the cat block. Take a look at my photobucket albums and look at the picture  editorial that shown how to de-cat your diesel omega 6 cyl engine. (legal in france as it's not compulsory until 1996 to have a cat on a diesel and mine is a 1994.)
What difference does it make? well forget chipping the car this gave mine a 40bhp boost, faster spin up of the turbo, better acceleration, loads more oomph and cleaner, no puff of smoke when i let go a load of g-g'ees as the old cat would try and clear it's throat.
40bhp is just a guess, but it's like i had been towing another car behind for ever and suddenly the tow rope broke!!! wow i have trouble keeping her to the speed limit's as with the throttle just cracked open she is doing 90kph (60mph) and just a tickle whips her up to 130kph in no time. i shall have to do some timed runs and post them on youtube... anyway have a look at how easy it is and have a think about it, and the cat block removed is done so keeping it intact so you can sell it for re-cycling, they are worth 50 quid.. :y   here is the link..
http://s595.photobucket.com/home/minilandrover
now a mod that can pay for it's self straight away most be a first...

14
Well here is the link for the pictures on the cat removal.
http://s595.photobucket.com/albums/tt33/minilandrover/omega%20cat%20removal/#!cpZZ1QQtppZZ16
Take a look and have a squint at my other albums
thanks for your help. i will do another posting under cat removal   colin :y

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Hello again, Yes the power difference is amazing. i must have at least another 40bhp! and so responsive, it's like i had been towing another car for the last year, and the tow rope has just broken... :D i took it for a run up our local dual carriageway and when i came off at the double roundabouts under the main road i was able to drift the car, 2nd gear blazing away tires squealing and nearly full opposite lock.. it never did that before!!! :o. so i guess it is running just as well as it can. i don't think re chipping could do that. the gaskets came from a company called ouest injection, there in Nantes, chateaubriant and a few other towns. the seals are just case gaskets that fit into a groove, ribbed to stop them falling out when you turn over the cover to bolt it on. I could not get the three sided bolt undone (tried a socket ) so i used my dremmel and a one of those brown disks and cut a nice slot 2.5mm deep across the middle of the bolt head. Then i used a shock screwdriver ( the ones you hit with a hammer ) to crack the bolt loose. did it up tight by hand afterward. The new seals were sitting proud of the seal groove where as the old ones were squashed flush. If you cannot get them in England then send me an email and i will get them for you. The cat came out easily. I had a spare exhaust (spare complete car but sold off most of it now) and cut the stainless steel cat can either side of the last rib on the top side of the can, then along one side just above the lip at the side. then opened it like a lid. the catalyser sits in a wire mesh wrap that protects it from damage when the exhaust hits road bumps etc, it can be levered out gently and kept intact for selling to a re-cycling dealer, they are worth 50 quid!!! once removed the can is closed down and welded around the cut. grind any bad weld and re weld so that there is  no gas escaping when you re fit the exhaust. Use a mig if you have one as the stainless steel is fairly thin, or use thin 2mm rods in an arc welder. The leaking diesel has actually soaked the rear bolts of the front exhaust section,and they came out easily. the front nuts with the springs were a bit stiffer but came off ok. unbelievably they were nylock nuts, on an exhaust!!!  [smiley=lolk.gif] anyway they went back on and i will keep an eye on them as they just compress against the spring, do not over tighten, the spring should be compressed but not to the maximum. Fitting a second lock nut would be better than nylock nuts. When i started the engine after bleeding the pump, i took the car outside and gave it a big rev and shot off down my driveway with a massive cloud of crap from both the exhaust and the driveway (dirt) i could hardly see behind. the engine blew all the soot out that the cat had been responsible for accumulating in the silencers. once blown clean no more smoke. the exhaust note is only slightly louder but clearer no longer a mmeuhh   more a grrrrrrrr ;D have a look on my photobucket albums, i will post one called cat removal on "minilandrover" so send the missus off to the shops and get the car up on the ramps. :y i will do a fuel test (driving normally and post the results) i was getting up to 38 mpg recently so it will be interesting to see if it gets any better. the worst i got from the car was 30mpg when towing and driving hard and around town a lot.
keep you all posted on this thread. let's have your comments... :y

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