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Messages - GG

Pages: [1] 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 ... 26
1
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There is more than one version of Bluetooth protocol. If you have an iPhone or late model Nokia, most of the "pre 2009" Bluetooth Car Stereos will not pair with them.

 ;)

For nokia, their is software for the phone that can resolve this, a friend of mine who is clever with these things, showed me how a nokia n96 would not pair. Then he did something clever with his computer to the phone and hey presto it paired. I know he downloaded the program off the internet some where, I will try to find out more when I see him

2
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Question about wiring loom
« on: 21 April 2009, 22:32:15 »
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After removing the back seat for some good old hoovering I found underneathh the rubber protective cover two plugs (one male ,one female) with at least 6 wires in each. What are they? could some be for the rear shelf speakers I did have in my pre-facelift CDX but not in my mini face lift (CDX). Any ideas? :question
no

heated seats and self levelling ecu

Checked mine (it's the elite) and he is right as usual (he answered before I could check)  :y >:(

3
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Alarm. Help Please!
« on: 18 April 2009, 21:41:08 »
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I had the same problem seemed to be worse when it rained I changed the power sounder and has been ok since , the batteries are encapsulated in compound and are not easy to get at either plus the batteries are obsolete as far as I can see so the best thing to do with it is bin it really  :y

I run my alarm without a power sounder, it's still got the horn bit which makes plenty of noise  :)

4
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Rear sun blind stuck.
« on: 17 April 2009, 00:04:27 »
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My rear blind is stuck up too :-( From reading around these forums, it tends to be one of three things. It's either just jammed and giving it a helping 'push' my get it to go down. Or, the gears inside the motor have jammed. Or, the circuit board that has the relays on it that is attached to the motor has failed circuit paths.

Like me, you are probably going to have to have the rear seats out and remove it all to find the fault. Follow the excellent guide on here.

Can you link the guide mine stuck down and it is not the runners or stuck so I think it is the board, which TB advised me when I visited him recently, but I can't find the guide   :o :o

5
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To the best of my knowledge, the CCR2006 and CCR2006B as you call them are actually one and the same unit with the exception that Tech2 is used to program the unit for BOSE or standard output.


Unfortunately this isn't true, I bought a ccr 2006 from mutantcav, for my BOSE system in my car.

I then went and visited TB with his tech2, and to his amazement and
Marks DTM Calib (he rang him), it cannot be coded to BOSE as there are two models of the ccr2006 out there.

Something about A and B versions, but if you have the wrong one forget it.

I am now looking for a ccr2006 with BOSE on the flap as although not all those without BOSE on the flap are unable to be changed to BOSE, I want to be sure the next one I get can be.  :y

Any chance of a photo of the label with all the numbers on, as this is something I have never come across either

Definitely will take a photo when I remove it (when I source a new one), they are too much of a pain to remove at a drop of a hat, so you will have to wait till I source a new one  :y

I will definately let you have a photo of the numbers when I remove it  :y

6
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To the best of my knowledge, the CCR2006 and CCR2006B as you call them are actually one and the same unit with the exception that Tech2 is used to program the unit for BOSE or standard output.


Unfortunately this isn't true, I bought a ccr 2006 from mutantcav, for my BOSE system in my car.

I then went and visited TB with his tech2, and to his amazement and
Marks DTM Calib (he rang him), it cannot be coded to BOSE as there are two models of the ccr2006 out there.

Something about A and B versions, but if you have the wrong one forget it.

I am now looking for a ccr2006 with BOSE on the flap as although not all those without BOSE on the flap are unable to be changed to BOSE, I want to be sure the next one I get can be.  :y

7
They also have different part numbers, if this helps

8
when I spoke to vauxhall they said different. But that could be a money thing. It costs £100 more if you buy new for the ccr 2006 b than cdr 2006. If you have an answer to this or know someone who does this would be great. One thing I do know is that I need to change my head unit from cdr 2005.

9
I have become an expert on this recently. The reason for this is I have had head unit change on my car before I bought it. I have the omega elite with BOSE speakers and amp. Unfortunately for me I have the head unit for your car which is the cdr 2005. This does not work great with BOSE. I am desperately looking for a ccr 2006 b which is what you have. Not to be confused with ccr 2006 which would be fine in your car. The ccr 2006 b has a slight diference inside which changes the output so that the BOSE amp can deal with the features that would normally be dealt with in the head unit. The advantage of CDR 2005 is that you lose the manual fade/balance and bass/treble. With CDR 2005 it becomes on screen adjustable which is great, but the outputs are wrong for the BOSE system. Hence my problem. And your problem. The CDR 2005 was an upgrade for the ccr 2006 but unfortunately for me the upgrade does not work great with BOSE. Hope this helps. It has taken hours for me to get to this knowledge point.  :) :)

10
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Bloody speaker
« on: 31 March 2009, 21:50:58 »
My knowledge on audio wiring is not just restricted to cars, I have been doing all audio wiring for house and car for years.

11
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Bloody speaker
« on: 31 March 2009, 21:49:00 »
For wiggling the loom to work you would have to find the exact wire that is the problem and work along it milimeter by milimeter at least 3 inchs each side of the door/kickwell. If you have a fractured or bent wire 85% of the time it will be ok, but those few times when it moves there will be  no sound, and just as quickly it will come back. Bear in mind the movement of the opening and closing is only slight on the wiring and it can take many movements for it to stop/start working, or a bump in the road  :)

12
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Bloody speaker
« on: 31 March 2009, 21:32:55 »
But I think it is in the middle somewhere as door doesn't move, neither does the kickwell, it is the bits in the middle and slightly each side that move, oh and the hinges ;)

13
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Bloody speaker
« on: 31 March 2009, 21:17:59 »
The door change is not a great idea. :( Firstly your car will look crap for a week or 2  :(. Secondly if the wiring error is in the door fine to a point, but if it is in the kickwell then it's a waste of time  :o.

The hardest part of the wiring jump on the loom which I suggested previously is removing the trim from door and kickwell, the rest is easy.  :y

I need to meet with you, hopefully over this weekend, to arrange tech 2 recoding of my ccr 2006, we can look at your speaker problem at the same time if you like  :y

14
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Bloody speaker
« on: 31 March 2009, 16:59:48 »
to me it seems that wire problem must be between the door and kickwell as the door is the only moving part in the equation. so I go back to my earlier suggestion of replacing the wire from the speaker to about 6 inches inside the car,  as the wire moves for 1st 3 or 4 inches inside the car as you open and shut the door.

15
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Bloody speaker
« on: 31 March 2009, 00:06:13 »
so my previous suggestion not so daft  ;D ;D

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