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Messages - ScaniaV8

Pages: [1] 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 ... 11
1
Omega Gallery / Re: New wheels at last
« on: 12 May 2012, 16:31:08 »
 Yes.... the wheels look very nice indeed as does the whole car ! However I still prefer the Ronal Irmscher 17" wheels fitted to early PFL MV6 models with the 10 spokes...

2
I am with ENTWOOD.......check the expansion tank neck around the cap area to see whether there are numerous small cracks appearing... I had similar scenario to what you are experiencing and replaced the Expansion header tank bottle (new VX to me was £24.00) and bingo.......problem all solved and overheating sympton cured !!!  :-)

3
Omega General Help / Re: Omega mechanic in Sweden?
« on: 03 April 2012, 16:39:54 »
Although my location shows Luton bedfordshire UK, I actually live and work in Sweden (work for Scania and live in Sodertalje). I get back to the Uk once per month and my Omega is UK based. I normally get Darth Loo Knee to do all my big Omega jobs but I have attempted some mechanical work on the Omega 2.5V6 and replacing the HBV was one task successfully completed in about 2 hours and a few scraped knuckles and appropriate swear box donations. There is a really good guide in the maintenance guides and is easily done, although removing the scuttle does provide more room for getting to the hoses and HBV etc., Do you use only a genuine Vx replacement HBV as the cheaper pattern ones are crap!
I had issues with coolant leakage and pressure tested to see where the culprit locations were occurring.

Also look for cracks around the Expansion tank..this can loose fluid regularly and also cause pressurisation problems and overheating problems. Coolant bridge below Plenum cover is also a target area for leaks.

You can E-MAil or post a message for any further information.....willing to give advice if required.  Good luck in the meantime.

 

4
Omega General Help / Re: Crank Sensor??
« on: 27 March 2012, 15:50:42 »
Yes...code 19 is the Crank shaft ensor for sure...I suggest you follow the excellent guide and makesure 2 things are followed
1. Only use genuine VX part (check the connector ends are the correct one bought, oval or square). It's false economy to buy other cheapos from factors etc. With my VX employee partners discount, my new sensor was £46.00
2). Make sure the new sensor cable is routed correctly away from heat sources such as manifold and exhaust pipes otherwise premature failure.

It took me, (non mechanic !"), about 1.5 hours to do, but only because I couldn't free the lower connection easily(torx nut) until I had WD40'd and then wiggled the plug about with a small set of mole grips and then pulled it out.

The difference was immediate, and fixed the problem. The code 19 disappeared automatically after several good starts.

Good luck

5
May be of interest and worth considering....I had the same problems a few months back and the root cause of the problem was a knackered steering Idler. Too much play and when braking from high to low speed was very noticeable pull left and judder.  Discs and Brake pads were all relatively new and nicely bedded in so these were not source of problem.
Replaced with genuine VX steering Idler and bingo......perfect steering and braking!... with Harry Potter no where in sight !!

Check out the condition of your steering Idler and vertical play etc etc.

6
Omega General Help / Re: Mayo
« on: 01 February 2012, 12:38:45 »
Bayonet twist action ?? Is that like a bayonet Light bulb treplacement ?..i.e push down first and then twist and view whether the lug is clear of the ' bolt' and then pull tube upwards ??  Hope this makes sense?

cheers,

7
Omega General Help / Re: Mayo & Oil Filler neck/Cap
« on: 01 February 2012, 12:28:08 »
  How easy is it to remove the Oil filler neck to help avoid the Mayo build up (especially if alot of short journeys are regularly taken) ? Is there a guide? Is it difficult (access and any bolts, clips etc) ?

thanks

8

As I am sure many others will confirm also....Darth Loo Knee (Darren) from Stoke is absolute gold dust (not pink colou!r).

100% recommendation for an excellent, fair price job and willing to share his knowledge as well. A top bloke !


9
Omega General Help / Re: Engine Protection/Oil Drip tray
« on: 11 January 2012, 13:54:04 »
Appreciate if someone could post a picture of one of these trays in situ so I can see what this tray looks like and also how is it attached (bolts /screws/ brackets ( etc etc).

thanks in advance.

10
Omega General Help / Re: where is my crankshaft sensor?
« on: 11 January 2012, 13:47:21 »
oops...apologies, the information I posted was in relation to 2.5 engine and not your 2.0 engine.

11
Omega General Help / Re: where is my crankshaft sensor?
« on: 11 January 2012, 13:45:41 »
There is an excellent guide in the Maintenance section covering Cranshaft sensor replacement.

Just make sure yiou use a genuine VX part as replacement (the cheaper OEM alternative parts are subject to premature failure !). Make sure you route the cabling away from heat sources and hot pipes.

Also do make sure you get the right part (electrical connector head is different as some are rectangular and some are more oval rounded edge shaped).

Good luck.

12
Omega General Help / Engine Protection/Oil Drip tray
« on: 11 January 2012, 10:14:45 »

Could anyone please advise whether this tray was a standard fitment to early Omega B models or just fitted to certain model specifications. I have seen reference to it into various maintenance manuals etc., but my current Omega does not seem to have one fitted. Not sure whether it has been removed by previous owners(s).

thanks   

13
Omega General Help / Re: Couple of niggling problems
« on: 10 January 2012, 15:49:59 »
I should of course have added..... it shouldn't make a terrible racket but obviously does whirr a bit ! :y

14
Omega General Help / Re: Couple of niggling problems
« on: 10 January 2012, 15:48:21 »
 Can only answer on  point 2 -  this is normal operation, nothing to worry about really. Fan should cut out anywhere between 10-30 secs depending on how high temperature has been .

15
Omega General Help / Re: OOFers Expertise..
« on: 10 January 2012, 12:03:16 »
I believe the fluid spec should definitely be Dexron 111 specification for the ATF .
With a Dry autobox, it specifies 9 litres of Dexron 111 needed, but when dropping both front & rear sumps, filter and gasket changes then you can only get about 6 litres of fluid in initially. (unless you can drain all the fluid still in the cooler pipes as well).

I had my autobox ATF changed recently and then  checked again after a further 500 miles of usgae  and managed to get another 1.5 litres in.

I must admit I have noticed such a differenece since the ATF fluid has been changed...all nice smooth auto gear changes and gearbox much quieter. :-)

good luck.

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