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1

Omega General Help / Re: 2L (2.0 Litre) 8 Valve 4 cyl inline X20SE 94 / 95 cam belt (timing belt) change

« on: 12 September 2013, 12:15:58 »

Good idea Tidla but it's now all back under covers.
It seems the folks who have done this job have moved on so I guess I'll just carry on struggling. I'll cut off the lug on the old water pump next time and experiment with how that helps. If it's an improvement I'll then cut the lug off of the new one and fit it that way.

2

Omega General Help / Re: 2L (2.0 Litre) 8 Valve 4 cyl inline X20SE 94 / 95 cam belt (timing belt) change

« on: 07 September 2013, 17:05:57 »

The old belt was the same number of teeth and length. I put the old belt on and I struggled the same with that one. And the one before. There must be someone out there who has done this job. Is it easy or not?

3

Omega General Help / Re: 2L (2.0 Litre) 8 Valve 4 cyl inline X20SE 94 / 95 cam belt (timing belt) change

« on: 30 August 2013, 00:01:11 »

Thanks for all the replys so far. To answer your comments not necessarily in the correct order:-
Believe me it's just not possible to get the belt back on by fitting it and the tensioner at the same time. That idea we dismissed after about 35 minutes of two of us straining our guts out.
Yes it does seem to be a rare combination x20se and Omega estate. It was a BT fleet car.
It is single OHC so not like the V engine or 16 valve twin cam.
If the lug on the water pump is for another engine, by removing it with an angle grinder I can rotate the pump further. This would make it more "Off Cam" and so give more slack as the lug hitting a casting stops you turning it more in favour of giving maximum slack for the belt run. Having got the belt fitted I can then rotate the pump back to where I know it normally sits.
Just to be clear though is anyone else having a swine of a job to get this belt on an X20SE engine? I have rebuilt entire engines before and don't consider myself an amature and tye guy helping me knows his way around the mechanics of a car. If others who have done it think it is straight forward then I will look harder for what I am doing wrong. Very helpful info would be was your water pump lug at about 11.00 o'clock having been rotated anticlockwise until it hit an alloy casting bolted to the front of the block? Cheers folks.

4

Omega General Help / Re: 2L (2.0 Litre) 8 Valve 4 cyl inline X20SE 94 / 95 cam belt (timing belt) change

« on: 25 August 2013, 14:37:08 »

Thanks Henryd. The pump is in the most off cam position. You can't turn it any further as the lug hits parts of an alloy castings bolted onto the front of the block. The previous time I changed the pump I tried it in various positions and settled on the one I used this time as all the others made the belt tighter. It has just struck me that perhaps there is a snug recess in the alloy casting that is not obvious without viewing upwards from beneath the radiator? With the lug in that position it would make the belt travel shorter thus giving more slack. That would explain why I am struggling. Perhaps someone who has change a water pump will confirm this.
Bob.

5

Omega General Help / 2L (2.0 Litre) 8 Valve 4 cyl inline X20SE 94 / 95 cam belt (timing belt) change

« on: 24 August 2013, 11:11:50 »

Does anyone have any advice on how to get a new timing belt on to the sprockets of this engine. I have done this job 3 times now and keep saying the car will die before I do this again so have not fully investigated how to do the job. No matter what I do the belt is always VERY tight despite setting the tensioner "off tension". Haynes ( bless) says mount the belt on the crank shaft sprocket and around the cam sprocket. Ensuring the belt is taught between the two sprockets. Then it say fit the belt on the water pump sprocket and tensioner. This is not possible due to the flange on the front face of the water pump sprocket which is wider in diameter than the tops of the sprocket teeth so you can't slide the belt on to the pump and tensioner from the front given the lack of slack. This means the belt has to be located on the water pump first which makes it a very high angle of attack on the tensioner wheel. Again due to the lack of slack this makes it impossible to do it that way. The picture in the Haynes manual shows this flange. Perhaps the early production pumps did not have these flanges? As usual I wired the tensioner back to it's fully "off tension" position and left its securing bolt loose to give as much freedom of the belt as possible. This time I used a bar in one of the cam sprocket holes, packed a buffer of cork between it and the belt and levered the belt up high enough to push it forward onto the cam shaft sprocket. It make me cringe to think of putting such a load on the belt. I replaced the water pump this time which has a cam action but am sure it was positioned properly as this will effect the belt run length. The lug on the pump is at about 11 o'clock, left of the top bolt looking at the front of the engine, turned as far anticlockwise as possible. Is this lack of belt slack problem typical or am I missing something? Is there a tool which helps to refit the belt? Any advice please.

6

Omega General Help / Re: Reading Fault Codes 2.0 2000

« on: 15 July 2012, 08:32:18 »

I have an M reg 1995 2000 X20SE 8 valve
I've done the paper clip test once so dont consider myself an expert but:
If you look up P 1690 it gives -  "Telltale (Check Light) Voltage High"
That to me could mean the battery is not stabalising the electrical systems voltage.
Changing the battery probably has solved it but:
I know a bit about electrics so:
It is a duff battery as you suspected or
You will get the same result if the connecting terminals to  the battery are not making good contact or are in a bad way. That is they have gone high resistance.
1.) I'd clean until shiny the insides of the connecting clamps. Use emery or sand paper wrapped around a bit of dowel.

If they are clean then with battery disconnected:
2.) check the earthed lead is well connected to the car chassis and has not come lose. Or the point of contact hasn't gone rusty. If so clean it up, greese it and re-connect firmly.
If not that then:
3.) Check for high resistance from the chassis to the battery terminal. It should of course be near to zero ohms. Say 1 ohm or there abouts. If it's high change the lead.
If not that then:
4.) Check for a high resistance from the fuse box to the other battery terminal. Again about 1 ohm max.

I thought if you left the battery disconnected for about 5 mins the fault codes re-set themselves?
If after all this you are still getting the light up I'd re-run the paper clip test and perhaps post the results?
Hope this helps.
Bob.
 

7

Omega General Help / Re: Water leaking into rear near side foot well

« on: 10 July 2012, 19:23:49 »

Just had 2 days of almost non stop rain and the foot well has filled up. Having read all the other posts on this subject I think it has to be down to the windscreen leaking. It does show white marks in the bottom corners.

For the benefit of other sufferers to summarise the list seems to be:-
Scuttle Drain - with water tracking back under front foot well carpet to rear foot well.
Sun roof drains
Rubber bung in rear foot well floor missing
Windscreen leaking - with water tracking back under front foot well carpet to rear foot well.

Not sure if I am going to go to the trouble of refitting the screen. If I do I'll report back.
Cheers
Bob.

8

Omega General Help / Re: 8v 2.0L X20SE Cam cover leak - Could this be oil breather blocked?

« on: 17 June 2012, 19:40:00 »

Thanks to all who replied. Much appreciated.
To start with let me say that the photo from Tunnie is the correct one. That's what my cam cover looks like. I am doing lots of short (4 mile) runs with no long runs so suspect it may be a blockage in the breather. I do about 8K miles a year and change the oil every year so it is well looked after. I can't say I'm keen on taking the sump off to clean the mesh but maybe that's what needs doing. I will use a Vauxhall gasket and black jointing compound. Do you have a brand name for this type of compound? When I have the cover off I'll see what oil passages are accessible.
Again thanks for all your time guys.
Bob24.

9

Omega General Help / 8v 2.0L X20SE Cam cover leak - Could this be oil breather blocked?

« on: 15 June 2012, 14:42:43 »

Hello, I have a considerable amount of oil escaping from the cam cover gasket. I have changed the gasket for a patent (non vauxhall) one recently and the "O" ring in the oil filler cap. It seemed OK for a couple of weeks after changing the gasket but now the leak is worse. I wondered whether it could be the sump breather gummed up? If so how do I get to it? The engine has done 158K miles so there is probably a bit of blow by causing crank case compression. It still pulls OK and still does good MPG. The Haynes Manual (Bless) says the crank case gasses are drawn through a wire mesh into the inlet track. Can this mesh get blocked at high mileage?
I have read on one post that non Vauxhall replacement gaskets are no good so perhaps this is the problem. I did not use a gasket compound either as the original gasket looked to be fitted dry and Haynes said nothing about using a compound. Any help welcome.
Sorry if this issue is already covered but I have spent 3 hours searching the site. 
Regards Bob24.

10

Omega General Help / Re: Water leaking into rear near side foot well

« on: 14 April 2012, 20:53:42 »

Dear Robson,
Thanks for the windscreen suggestion. Well worth a thought.
However we have had 2 really big prolonged down pours and no new water in the foot well so the water ingress would seem to have been solved by clearing the scuttle drain.
Thanks again to all you guys.
I think this post is closed.
Regards
Bob

11

Omega General Help / Re: Water leaking into rear near side foot well

« on: 19 March 2012, 10:55:58 »

Dear Tunnie,
Thanks for the picture. I've just stuck my head under with it on the drive. The pipe guides are really sound it does not look like they are leaking. All three plugs are in place and look OK. I have to move a few things to use the pit but I'll give it a good looking at and use some mastic if there's any sign of a leak. I think my money is still on the front drain as the cause.
Thanks again for your time and trouble.
Cheers
Bob.

12

Omega General Help / Re: Water leaking into rear near side foot well

« on: 18 March 2012, 11:13:36 »

Thanks for your answers guys.
To deal with them one at a time :
- I'm pretty sure I have rodded the sunroof vents out.
- The scuttle drain at the front below the pollen filter was partly blocked with the usual crud so have completely cleared it then flushed with half a gallon of hot soapy water. It gushed out of the bottom of the drain hose, so I'm certain it is now completely clear.
- There is some sign of wet running down the door silll edge of the front NS foot well. That could be a big clue. It supports the idea that the water is getting in at the front and running back to the rear foot well.
- There's small white patches at both bottom out side edges of the front wind screen suggesting leaks starting. It does not look too bad. The cars not worth a new windscreen but some clear mastic might be a solution.
- Can't see any floor plugs / gromits missing but will have a full look when I've got it over the pit. The well fills up with the car parked so I don't think that's it but I'll keep my eye on it.
- The car has no Air Con.

I have dried out the well with an old towel and will now wait to see what happens with the next rain fall.
 I'll update the post when I prove if cleaning the drain has worked or not?
Appreciate your time guys.
Cheers Bob.

13

Omega General Help / Water leaking into rear near side foot well

« on: 15 March 2012, 11:15:28 »

Dear All,
I have water leaking into my rear near side foot well. It is an estate. I have: - changed the door rubber and rodded the four drains from the sunroof with no success. When I rodded the sunroof drains the wire bottomed out at the end. None of the drains let the wire go clear through but they were all the same length so I assumed that was normal? They took about 98% of a 3 meter length of curtain wire. Does anyone know where these drains run, do they go near the rear footwell? My drive slopes about 10 degrees. My car was parked front down when the problem started and I have tried parking it front up with no change. Andy B raised a similar problem in 2007 but the post was inconclusive. There was suspicion of it being the front drain under the bonnet blocked with the water running back under the front well carpet to the back footwell. I have cleaned out this front drain and I don’t think it has helped. Also with my car parked down hill it would surprise me if the water ran up hill but who knows with water? Any help please.

14

Omega General Help / Re: Help with stalling X20SE engine please.

« on: 11 June 2009, 16:23:34 »

Changed the Coolant temp sensor CTS and the motors now going fine apparently. Still getting the engine light up for short periods. Un-hooked the battery to reset the ECU fault codes and checked it again. Still getting;
144, 44, 15, 31 but with an added 38 = Oxygen sensor - Voltage low.
I'm pretty sure the Lambda is knacked so will change that next. Found "cats2go" are selling them for £27 + p&p so not too bad. Only hope the old one isn't welded into the cat and tears the thread out when I unscrew it.
Not sure why the 15 is still showing, now it's got a new cts ?? I'll check the wiring is sound.
More later.....
Bob.

15

Omega General Help / Re: Help with stalling X20SE engine please.

« on: 08 June 2009, 15:08:08 »

Just tried the paper clip test:
144 = No immobiliser signal  received - Faulty unit or fault in wiring.
44  = Oxygen sensor - Air/fuel mixture too weak.
15  = Coolant Temperature sensor (CTS) - Low voltage.
31  = Engine RPM sensor - I had engine stopped.

As you can see no crank sensor fault indicated = 19.
The temperature guage on the dash seems to be indicating correct temperature. I've just read in the haynes that there's 2 sensors one for the guage and one for the engine management. I'll go after the temperature sensor.
Any advice welcome.
Cheers
Bob