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Messages - midlands al

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1
I disconnected the battery earth and left it for a few minutes, went back connected it..it runs.

Took me about 30 seconds to do and she runs great.

 :y :y :y :y :y :y :y :y :y

Thanks to all for the advice

2
 :-/. I don't know if i did. I think this morning i was a bit  >:( with the car and blagged a lift off a workmate instead of just sitting down and thinking..don't do enough of that.

I'll give your suggestion a try aswell. cheers

3
Progress...sort of.

I boosted (Used a power pack pack not hijacked) the car last night and drove it to halfords.

The battery I bought was smaller in size but bigger in oomph, the original battery was only 300CCA this new one is 520CCA and with a trade card it was only £52..bargain.

Replaced the battery, started it and...it ran no problems. :y

Went to the car this morning, started it and...nothing. All of the dash lights came on as usual but no starter click.  :(

At the moment i'm not to  >:( as when i got home i was playing with the remote key fob half hearted so i think :-/ i may need to program it properly.

4
Thanks for everyone's input so far.

Progress..

I attached a battery boost to the car yesterday, started it..and she started up and ran well. ;D

Left the car idling whilst i disconnected the battery boost and it ticked over with no problems. All the warning lights and MIL lamp went out. ;D

Keyed off, keyed on and...click..nothing. :(

I checked the engine earth  and it was secure. I had a good resistance and continuity to the battery negative. ;D

For info the engine earth is on the front of the block, bottom passenger side (RHD) just behind a pulley (Can't remember if it's aircon or PAS) on my 2.5 v6

I repeated the battery boost test several times and it was fine all times. I think i'm going to get a new battery..

I don't know if the starter motor was faulty because apparently these you can't bench test and the replacement showed the same symptoms.

Moral is check the battery before the long tedious and arduous task of changing the starter motor.

5
I did the paperclip test this morning and the only code was

31   No Engine RPM Signal (Engine wasn't running so not concerned)

I'm pleased by that at least. :)

I've got a current clamp from work so i can put that on the car tonite and when i come back from my holiday i'll rip the starter motor out and have a look...again.. ::)

The other problem to sort out is my leaking CAM covers that are spraying oil over my engine bay.. :(

That i can have a look at as well. I'm not as  >:( with the old car now.. she needs tlc.


6
Hi Dave,

I've tried with the jumper lead to the battery negative to engine block, tried it and made no difference.

I've spun the engine through 360 deg with a spanner, tried it and made no difference.

Ahhhhhh >:(

7
I've been looking at the paperclip test for my car and i've found conflicting info.

I have the 16 Way Diagnostic connector in the fusebox under the steering column and one document says short out pins 4 & 6 on the connector and another says 5 & 6.

It is definitely the 4 & 6 isn't it with the 2 digit codes?

Thanks for everybodies assistance in this so far.

8
My MIL lamp comes straight on and doesn't change condition until i key off. When attempting to crank it just sits there, glowing and teasing.

I did a couple of simple checks yesterday -
 
I have continuity between the body of the starter motor and the battery negative.

I have battery voltage at the battery terminal on the starter motor.

I have a voltage at the starter motor solenoid terminal when I go into crank position.

I'll go through tonite / tomorrow and double check them and check the alternator battery terminals.

I'm going to try the 'paperclip' test tonite / tomorrow and see what or if anything flags.

9
I'm away on holiday for a week from friday :) and get back late the following Saturday. I've then got to get something sorted for Monday  :(

 :y For the offer so i'll take you up on that. I've got a strange feeling it's going to be something really silly and simple, something connected with the immobilizer.

What does the engine symbol with the lightening flash mean? It's not the MIL is it?

10
Thanks for the responses.

I swapped over the starter motor at the weekend (I spent something like 15 hours replacing it) and tried again and i got 'click'.

I connected a jump lead from the starter body to the battery negative and tried again and i got 'click'.

Whilst 'fannying about' swapping the starter motor i had the battery on charge and tried it again with the replacement starter motor, this time the battery was at 13.8 volts and again 'click'.

I borrowed an OBD scan tool from work and plugged it into the port. Put ignition on the scantool said it couldn't even see the car let alone read it.

Oh the other thing i did was replace the battery in the keyfob (2 button type). I put it in the ignition for and after 30 seconds (as the manual says) tried the central locking whilst in and it worked.

I'm located in Rugby and thanks for the offer.


11
Goor Morning Folks,

I'm hoping to pick some of the vast wealth of knowledge you have from your brains on my car. The story so far..

I drove home from work the other day and the car was fine. :)

Nipped indoors to pick up some cash and came back to the car, went to start it and got 'click' from the starter motor solenoid and that was it. >:(

I was literally gone a couple of minutes.

When I turn the key into 'Ignition Position' i get an engine symbol with an electrical flash through it with the usual warning lights. This stays on continuously and does not go off until key off.

The car does not make any attempt to crank or anything. When i go to 'Crank Position' the warning lights go very dim but no attempt to crank.

Does anybody have any ideas so far..any help would be much appreciated as i'm blagging lifts at the moment.

Cheers

12
Omega General Help / Hello from a new boy.
« on: 28 August 2009, 08:42:58 »
Morning Folks,

I'm a new boy and thought I'd come and say hello, just bought a 98 'R' reg 2.5 V6 auto saloon, which I think is great.

Now down to business..
I recently lost all power steering, it was fine and then just went.
I now seem to have overheating, my temperature gauge doesn't take long to reach 95 deg and my coolant seems to disappear.
My cooling fans seem very sporadic in when they come on.
My HRW which used to work now doesn't.
My 'Recirc' which used to work now doesn't.

It looks like the fun is about to start. When you read through the haynes book it looks like you have to remove half the engine bay to get to stuff. :'(

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