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Messages - cristina

Pages: [1] 2
1
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Battery Voltage
« on: 25 July 2011, 09:42:08 »
No probs, mine is running well and according to the other half she is now called 'Goldie'! Can't think why though....must be my age :D
Sounds very much like the battery was just not getting enough charge back into it cos the leccys on these do whack a great deal out of them on short runs. Just do as advised and you will probably find thats its ok. Buy yourself an emergency starter pack, they are cheapish and you can hook that up if you decide to take the battery off to trickle charge it overnight. Just remember to hook it up in tandem (parralel ie + to +) before you disconnect the main battery and it will then retain the settings. Do the same when you put the main battery back. Or do as I do and use a small 12v bike battery. Both ideas do work though.
Might even get to visit sometime again.....you never know...... :D ;) Pillock I bought it from still hasn't sent the other bits though so frig keeping him posted as to what I am doing with it. :o :y

2
Omega General Help / Re: PlenumBreather pipe mix up
« on: 16 April 2010, 17:47:34 »
Thank you Kevin. I read the one from bionic and followed the guide he pointed me to and by drawing the diagram then redrawing it in mirror view it came to what you have described. Silly really to have a picture from the bottom view that only serves to confuse those it is meant to help.
It looks to be a badly designed part anyway when the pipes go to opposite directions from their plenum places. Waht sort of idiot thought of doing that I wonder. Some designer with his mind not on the job and never actually had to work on one?
Thank you all
cristina

3
Omega General Help / PlenumBreather pipe mix up
« on: 16 April 2010, 17:01:25 »
Hi friends,
Omega V6 petrol 2.5
I think I have made a booboo because I had taken the 4 pipes off the back of the plenum top rear, the breather system pipes, and I have not noted where they came from. The 2 outer ones were easy but the 2 thinner inside ones have moved a bit.
Looking from the front of the car am I right in saying that the outer left and right big ones goes via a tee to the engine breather box, the left thin one to the pre-throttle breather and the right thin one to the small pipe on the engine breather box carbon canister thingy (alongside the thick one from the tee).
Does it make any difference where the thin ones go?
I will mark them next time! :D

4
Omega General Help / Re: valeting question
« on: 21 January 2010, 16:11:16 »
The hard seatbacks in mine are black (leather seats) and I use a trim polish. I use it on the lighter grey trim too and as the product is a neutral colour it does not change the original colour.
The initial clean is done with an all surface kitchen cleaner (non-bleach) (ASDA's best).
We ladies are cleanaholics!
Byeeee

5
Omega General Help / Re: Respray costs
« on: 21 January 2010, 16:02:31 »
Hiya,
I have been quoted for mine for a quick preparation and then topcoat and laquer (Diamond Black) for 800 notes.
They said if I was prepared to do the rubbing down myself (wet and dry), do any filling required, take off as much trim as I could and mask it as much as possible they would do it for 600 inclusive. Roll on good weather and it will go there.
Other places have floored cme with between 300 (must be a cac job) to near 2 grand!
Best bet is to look around in your own area and explain what you are prepared to do youyrself. Don't forget to ask previous customers though - if the sprayshop is genuine they should not refuse you a few names. Some even have a before and after album.
Regards
Cris

6
Omega General Help / Re: oil in plug wells
« on: 21 January 2010, 16:05:57 »
Don't forget that the genuine VX cancover joint kit fits like a glove and don't leak if installed correctly. The aftermarket ones (clones) are pretty much crap fitting and tend to leak again.
Byeee

7
Omega General Help / Re: V6 Coolant Radiator part number anyone????
« on: 21 January 2010, 10:03:53 »
Hi,
Tunnie can't be that bad can he?
Might not be a common fault but the rip off prat who replaced my leaking (he said) aircon condenser must have lifted them both out by using the tophose connection as leverage. It was fine until he got his hands on it. Anyway it has a hairline crack running round it now, he won't admit liability, and it steams like a kettle. Worse than that the aircon condenser was not the problem at all it was the aircon pump itself that is leaking!
I am going to have a go myself so be prepared everyone for many requests for advice.
Byeeeee
Cris

8
Omega General Help / V6 Coolant Radiator part number anyone????
« on: 21 January 2010, 09:02:58 »
Can anyone tell me the part number of the coolant radiator for a  1998 (R) 2.5 V6 auto with aircon?
Is there a difference between those with aircon and without because I thought that the aircon condenser was a totally different thing and they were not pipework connected, just mounted piggyback?
What sort of job is it?
Byeee

9
Funny thing is that it never, ever overheats! The temp gauge has never reached 95, its been on tickover now for 2 hours, no electric fan on at any time and even if left to run on tickover for many hours the electric fan does not cut in even then. The electric fan does work and the temperature switch for it is new and fully working. All that has already been looked at. The wiring circuit was tested and that is fine too.
I am going to leave it running on tickover now until it does show some signs of something.
Sods law, it must be.
cristina

10
Thanx,
I will add that to my list of to-do's for tomorrow. At least the weather will let us get on with it now.

Just had a thought  ::), (don't go there, we ladies sometimes do have them) but I might try to get the system to get really hot, quite how I will have to figure out (maybe disconnect the electric rad fan temporarily) and then allow the pressure to build up while we look for any traces at all of 'pinhole' leaks. Surely that will show them then?
Pity there is not an electronic sniffer like CSI!
cristina

11
OK, the hose clip idea won't be used.  That was a last resort thought because all of the o rings where disturbed ( all transfer pipes) have been replaced with VX new ones.
I am going to put some more paper down tonight and see if there is any signs of a leak at all. I will also take off, or he will, the plenum and scuttle too so everything will be easier to see. Its bugging me cos if you lift the bonnet with the engine hot there is not a sign of any steam or water discolouration stains anywhere. He keeps the underbonnet clean all the time cos he says that the car should be as clean under there as the rest of it. Makes sense I suppose cos working on it is a lot kinder to your hands (do not go there, heard it all before).
I do know for an absolute certainty that the inside of the car is totally bone dry though.
Don't tell me to use Radweld though, lost a motor through that s**t before.
If all else fails I will just have to get a stronger in car smelly or two!
cristina

12
Was ajoke, no way would I go near there without a gasmask on  :D

13
Quote
Thank you all for the suggestions but they have all been tried and there are no visible leaks at all as I said.
The scuttle is totally clean because it was taken off to do the HBV. Everything that could be cleaned was.
The car does not steam up inside at all, only when we get in with wet clothes and that soon clears. The carpets, as said, are totally dry right down to the metal floor itself. We use rubber well mats in wet weather and dry any water off them with tissue straight away. The carpets are totally dry under them. In summer (?) we use fabric, not rubber, over mats as a grit protection for the original carpets.
The only other thing I can think of doing is to replace the heater hose's matrix ends, the plastic self locking thingys, with jubilee clips to make certain that the joints are secure.
I have just had another looky underneath and cannot see any evidence of leaks even though I put down some lengths of wallpaper so I could see it better when I had been out for a paper this morning and got the engine hot. The engine temp rarely goes over 85-90.
Haha, come on lads, go on say it, its just being like a 'she' - temperamental.
Might it be worth bypassing the heater matrix completely with a simple joint and see if that stops the smell?
Joking aside, its issing me off and I am constantly biting my mans bum about it. Have some pity on him.
cristina

14
Thank you all for the suggestions but they have all been tried and there are no visible leaks at all as I said.
The scuttle is totally clean because it was taken off to do the HBV. Everything that could be cleaned was.
The car does not steam up inside at all, only when we get in with wet clothes and that soon clears. The carpets, as said, are totally dry right down to the metal floor itself. We use rubber well mats in wet weather and dry any water off them with tissue straight away. The carpets are totally dry under them. In summer (?) we use fabric, not rubber, over mats as a grit protection for the original carpets.
The only other thing I can think of doing is to replace the heater hose's matrix ends, the plastic self locking thingys, with jubilee clips to make certain that the joints are secure.
I have just had another looky underneath and cannot see any evidence of leaks even though I put down some lengths of wallpaper so I could see it better when I had been out for a paper this morning and got the engine hot. The engine temp rarely goes over 85-90.
Haha, come on lads, go on say it, its just being like a 'she' - temperamental.
Joking aside, its issing me off and I am constantly biting my mans bum about it. Have some pity on him.
cristina

15
Can anyone tell me why there is a smell of hot water inside the car? The inside of the car is bone dry and I cannot see any leaks at all from the outside. I have had my hubby look at it from underneath too. The Auxillary belt, Cam cover joints, HBV and thermostat were changed for VX ones because I was told that the VX parts were the best, I will always use VX parts in future for any repairs. The heater core and the rest of the system was pressure flushed out both ways as well until the water ran clean and clear. It has been fully antifreezed. The water circulates as it should, no bubbling in the tank and there are no funny noises. The oil is clean and the filler neck has a tiny amount of very light white film inside it for about an inch. The top up tank is also clean inside. The automatic choke works as it should too, it disengages in a few minutes.
My hubby took the plenum off so he could see better and when I looked there was nothing to see. We did all this with the enginge hot and then cold to see if that made any difference. It didn't!
What can we try next?
cristina

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