1
Omega General Help / Re: Minimum thickness of discs
« on: 06 April 2011, 17:44:31 »
Haynes say all cars from 98:
front new = 28mm min = 25mm
rear new = 12mm min = 10mm.
front new = 28mm min = 25mm
rear new = 12mm min = 10mm.
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2
Omega General Help / Re: Removing Viscous Fan trouble!? Need Help today
« on: 24 March 2011, 15:16:39 »
Only way I could get mine off was to invest in a Sealey VS095 - Viscous Fan Holding Tool. It latches on to the water pump pulley & stops it turning.
3
Omega General Help / Re: 2.5TD Thermostat change, anyone done the job?
« on: 16 February 2011, 11:02:02 »
You might be lucky with just a spanner but I needed a tool to stop the fan rotating.
Some people say you can just wedge a big screwdriver in to do it.
I used a Sealey Viscous Fan Holding Tool VS095 & then a mere tap with a sledgehammer on the spanner did the trick.
Some people say you can just wedge a big screwdriver in to do it.
I used a Sealey Viscous Fan Holding Tool VS095 & then a mere tap with a sledgehammer on the spanner did the trick.
4
Omega General Help / Re: 2.5TD Thermostat change, anyone done the job?
« on: 15 February 2011, 21:26:45 »
This maintenance guide with photos could be helpful
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1264071895
You don't need to remove pipe immediately in front of it.
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1264071895
You don't need to remove pipe immediately in front of it.
5
Omega General Help / Re: rear bushes
« on: 15 February 2011, 18:57:48 »
I'd appreciate some advice please. My car passed its MOT yesterday (after replacing both front indicator bulbs which had lost their colour) but received this advisory:
Rear (both front bushes) sub-frame rubber bush deteriorated but not resulting in excessive movement.
My car's a '96 TD & has done 182k. Should I do it now or wait until the next MOT?
Should I buy genuine Vauxhall, Febi (£28 a pair) or Lemforder (£46) bushes?
Any recommendations & as to where to get in done in South Bucks as the various postings make it sound a non trivial task?
Rear (both front bushes) sub-frame rubber bush deteriorated but not resulting in excessive movement.
My car's a '96 TD & has done 182k. Should I do it now or wait until the next MOT?
Should I buy genuine Vauxhall, Febi (£28 a pair) or Lemforder (£46) bushes?
Any recommendations & as to where to get in done in South Bucks as the various postings make it sound a non trivial task?
6
Omega General Help / Re: Smokey diesel
« on: 13 February 2011, 13:23:12 »
The smoke suggests that the fuel is reaching the cylinders. So perhaps either the glowplugs are not getting properly heated (poor connection) or not enough air is getting through (blocked air filter or collapsed hose). Sounds like you've eliminated these potential causes.
Only other option I can think of is that the fuel is being injected at the wrong time (you make reference to timing). Could this be a faulty crank position sensor or the fuel injection pump out of alignment?
A code reading might say something.
Only other option I can think of is that the fuel is being injected at the wrong time (you make reference to timing). Could this be a faulty crank position sensor or the fuel injection pump out of alignment?
A code reading might say something.
7
Omega General Help / Re: Time For A Bit Of A Service (MPG Issues)
« on: 09 February 2011, 11:31:58 »
Mpg in cold weather will be worse unless doing long journeys. Also is your temperature guage in the middle when warmed up?
8
Omega General Help / Re: 2.5 TD Auto Boots down and poor acceleration
« on: 09 February 2011, 11:42:36 »
I would replace air filter & fuel filter unless you know they are ok. Otherwise check thin tube that goes from underneath of the middle of the inlet manifold to the charge pressure sensor (looks like a 1" cube) mounted on passenger side of engine compartment. This tends to fill with oil and cause poor acceleration.
9
Omega General Help / Re: omega 2.5 td timing chains
« on: 08 February 2011, 08:34:57 »
Just out of interest ... how do know when your timing chain needs replacing & what was your mileage?
10
Omega General Help / Re: Minor coolant loss
« on: 07 February 2011, 15:34:04 »
If any of your coolant hoses have non original clips ..... its worth tightening them up a little as they can leak coolant without showing any sign of leakage.
11
Omega General Help / Re: Brake pipes & MOT coming up
« on: 07 February 2011, 11:36:50 »
To answer my own question .... found my receipt from 2 years ago for MOT. Failed on front to back & both rear pipes excessively corroded .... & replaced.
The pipe was cheap at £9 for 10 ft but the labour was 4 hrs! But at the time I thought not a job I fancied doing myself & anyway cheaper than the depreciation on a newer car.
The pipe was cheap at £9 for 10 ft but the labour was 4 hrs! But at the time I thought not a job I fancied doing myself & anyway cheaper than the depreciation on a newer car.
12
Omega General Help / Brake pipes & MOT coming up
« on: 07 February 2011, 11:14:32 »
I've got an MOT coming up in 5 weeks time on my 182k '96 Omega ... so I thought I'd crawl underneath for a quick look as a couple of recents posts talk of MOT failure due to rusting brake pipes.
Mine look like copper alloy but I'm sure they're not. Can anyone explain they don't look like steel pipes?
If my long departed Volvo 240 had copper alloy brake pipes ... why do they bother with steel?
People talk of coating them in copper grease .... worth doing?
Mine look like copper alloy but I'm sure they're not. Can anyone explain they don't look like steel pipes?
If my long departed Volvo 240 had copper alloy brake pipes ... why do they bother with steel?
People talk of coating them in copper grease .... worth doing?
13
Omega General Help / Re: Oil change Interval?
« on: 07 February 2011, 09:45:08 »
Back to oil change interval. You can now get Vauxhall semi synthetic 10W40 & fully synthetic 5W30 for £12 - £20 for 5 litres.
I would suggest that if your car has a recommended 10,000 change interval & if you diy the changes; then the optimum strategy for long engine/turbo life is to change the oil twice a year & the filter once a year. Ideally something like March & October so the oil gets changed immediately after the winter months. A lot of protection for little cost or effort.
I would suggest that if your car has a recommended 10,000 change interval & if you diy the changes; then the optimum strategy for long engine/turbo life is to change the oil twice a year & the filter once a year. Ideally something like March & October so the oil gets changed immediately after the winter months. A lot of protection for little cost or effort.
14
Omega General Help / Re: flat blade wipers
« on: 07 February 2011, 09:22:32 »
I always buy at least two items from the main dealer for any make of car: oil filters & wipers.
I've found that regardless of the quality/brand of the alternative replacement wipers.... you can end up with noisy squeeky blades.
I've found that regardless of the quality/brand of the alternative replacement wipers.... you can end up with noisy squeeky blades.
15
Omega General Help / Re: Brake Light Switch
« on: 21 January 2011, 09:04:24 »
My advice from fitting a new brake light switch to my 2.5TD ... don't know if applies to other cars
You can only fit a new switch in by:
1. Having the brake pedal pushed down (i.e. you need another person to do this or use a rod)
2. Pulling the switch actuating pin all the way out so you can slide the red locking collar fully out (otherwise the locking tabs can't move inwards as the red collar is in the way).
You can only fit a new switch in by:
1. Having the brake pedal pushed down (i.e. you need another person to do this or use a rod)
2. Pulling the switch actuating pin all the way out so you can slide the red locking collar fully out (otherwise the locking tabs can't move inwards as the red collar is in the way).