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Messages - Ali Ch

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1
Omega General Help / Re: timing belt needed
« on: 29 December 2012, 06:41:26 »
iam sure i could get you parts either genuine or good aftermarket  but how would i post?

Wrap em up and go to Post Office  ::)

but they would have to be sent secure and the op might no a better/cheaper way ::)

post offices here are totally not secure, our options include UPS and dhl. once i received via global logistics, but the office moved to another building, i could not find them a few months ago.

2
Omega General Help / Re: timing belt needed
« on: 28 December 2012, 06:27:23 »
oh, its a 4 pot X20EX... and i do change the water pump and every thing, but they are so crappy that every time some other component just fail. and i think the last time the belt just snapped for no reason, every thing looked very nice. one of the times the cam oil seal broke and spoiled the belt (as the mechanic told me), the oil was every where :S.

3
Omega General Help / timing belt needed
« on: 26 December 2012, 20:11:28 »
Hi every one, i have had my mig's timing belt snapping too many times. i have changed it for the 4th time, it snaps about every 3000 km,. the issue is there are no genuine parts here, not even high quality after market. all i can get from local market is chines knock offs.
so i have had it with the big repairs and decided to order a genuine kit.
the problem now is where to get them, i found some selling them on ebay, but they either don't ship to "my country" or did not respond to my questions. actually i made i deal with one and he just ignored me after i payed him via paypal (hopefully paypal were nice and decided to give me my money back)
so, i live in Iraq. any one know an online shop that sells them and ship world wide?
marry xmass by the way :y

4
hi again

i was trying to do a leak down test for the past few weeks, but with no luck. i found someone with a compression gauge, he tested but all he said that it is low, i could not get a number out of him. and my engine "mysteriously" broke his gauge. so i thought he did not know what he was doing, beside he did the test some how incomplete.

so i decided to open up and see what is going inside, and i was going to change the head gasket anyway. the head gasket was slightly broken between cylinder 4 and a nearby water hole. but nothing else is wrong with the gasket. the cylinder walls all seam shiny and clean. but i don't know what to look for exactly. if i am going to inspect the valves, cylinders, etc., what i should be looking for?? what are the good and bad signs??
what i can see now is a thin layer of carbon on the piston crown, and also on the very top of the cylinder wall, about 3mm wide.

thanks guys for the help :y

ps: in the last week, the knocking is some how less, it stops knocking when the rpm is above 1000, some times on less rpm (previously it used to knock up to a 1800 rpm), but the engine is wobbling hard and i can feel it in the steering wheel when the engine is idling. i can't use the AC too, it becomes heavy to drive and when the engine temp reaches 95 i can't stop and move again with the AC on, the engine knocks hard and stops rotating. i turn off the AC, and start and it works :-/

5
no one has a compression gauge :(....all mechanics who suggested a failed valve said they have to open the cylinder head and take a look....seams more damage than fix to me!!!
still....the symptoms is on and off, if there is a stuck valve would it be stuck some time and free some time??? if it is stuck what it is going to take to fix???
another easy way to check may be???

6
ok....that is weird....why i am getting an error code (1690:malfunction indicator lamp) ??????? a friend had a working knock sensor and he suggested that i replace mine to eliminate a malfunctioning knock sensor. when i finished the management light is on....took it for a ride and after a while the light turned off. i did the paper clip test and found this error (along with the old errors i had before, i don't  seam to be able to reset the errors in any way)
did not drive the car for a long distance, but i thing the problem is still there :(
by "indicator lamp" they mean the light in the dash, i.e. the management light, don't they???

7
hi
i removed the spark plugs last night....did not find any water in the morning, you think that removes the head gasket possibility??
any one knew what is the meaning of the code (1327: Knock control cylinder 2) ????
thanks again :)

8
i changed the ecu today, and no change.
could some thing in the valves cause this??? i keep hearing people saying you have a faulty valve.

9
hmmmm now you are making sense. i ll check it and see.

10
hii...thanx for the reply
the car runs well, i just have to select the 1st gear and accelerate slooowly. when i reach 1800 rpm the knocking ceases and i can accelerate normally, but if the gear changes soon so that the rpm drops below 1800 it start knocking again. so i have been driving like that for quite a while.
i did about 300 km since i replaced the oxygen sensor, the run-on is reduced, but not completely gone. the knocking is now continuous, it been few days since its last correct functionality. and it started to wobble and misfire. which i think means the problem is getting worse.
as far as the water loss, i found three leaking points :S fixed one, but didn't find the time for the other two, one of them is behind the alternator.
and the pic in a previous reply is why i am trying another ecu, there is a good chance that two of the ICs is malfunctioning, the small ic has a similar but much smaller defect.

11
can i just replace the ecu with one from another car???? i have this guy who sell them say that i have to re-program the ecu to work with the car security!!!!!

12
yes....that what i first noticed...some times ICs do have such cracks when they come out of the factory, it would be only in its plastic case not in the chip inside....but if it was originally ok then this is due to over heating......i think i have to fetch some ecu and test it in my car before i attempt buying one.
now i have to look for a donator tomorrow  :-/

13
the bottom is nice.....so as the lid......it was covered with a small plastic cup (four of them) and a clip so as to be firmly attached to the metal body of the casing to act as heat sink (which i removed to check them)....the plastic cover was ok too

14
the rest of the board is as good as new......i just couldn't be conclusive about that one ic :-/

15
it is TPIC2802.....serial to parallel current driver.......it is only brown on the top edge of the metal back!!! clean and shiny front and back.....what do you think guys???? should i get a new ecu?




here are a larger versions of the pics :) if some one wants a closer look
http://img815.imageshack.us/img815/2562/dsc04854.jpg
http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/5046/dsc04856e.jpg

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