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QuoteI am watching this thread with interest.. as mine sometimes behaves similiar..
many things can cause that behaviour..
brake calipers,pistons, shocks, wishbones, front geometry items, tire pressure difference etc..
is there any play (gap) in steering ?
and also during checks a faulty item may be, not controlled completely :-/
also measure the distances of all tires to bumpers..
Was trawling the web last night and came across a guy who sounded like me, same issue tried and replaced all of the above and more and eventually came to the ABS pump. Apparently the pump faults dont show up on the computer but are a common fault item on omegas! not my words but theirs.
Any ideas or knowledge on these. Heard anything about them??
Hi all, I know some of you have been watching this with interest but the news isnt good. The last thing I had left to replace was the ABS pump. I sourced a great one from Vauxhall salvage in Derby and it was fitted the other day. No difference what so ever.
I have replaced everything. I have three mechanics now who have thrown the towel in. And the car still isnt sorted.
Any ideas folks
Also ask, is it possible the brake fluid reservoir ran out of fluid...?
QuoteBasically your correct, but ordinarily shouldn't need tech2 to bleed the abs pump. If all goes normally all air and excess fluid should come out of the bleed nipple. However if the reservoir runs out of fluid and draws air in instead of fluid then there will be air in the abs pump. Only then will tech2 or diagnostic computer be needed.QuoteAbs ecu failure is a known issue. But the symptoms are all electronic, no speedo, no traction control, abs light on dash, although abs failure is not electronic, if you see what I mean, it does not affect braking performance.
Yours is a mechanical fault. I only mentined abs because it's almost possible to bleed air from the abs pump, unless fired remotely via tech2 or similar diagnostic computer.
so its possible to get air trapped in the abs pump even though it is believed the system has been purged after a brake fluid change. So a brake fluid change should be done in conjunction with the proper diagnostic kit tapped into the abs?
Abs ecu failure is a known issue. But the symptoms are all electronic, no speedo, no traction control, abs light on dash, although abs failure is not electronic, if you see what I mean, it does not affect braking performance.
Yours is a mechanical fault. I only mentined abs because it's almost possible to bleed air from the abs pump, unless fired remotely via tech2 or similar diagnostic computer.
QuoteDo you have acess to a code reader that can activate the abs to aid bleeding and get any air out? If it's pulling left check the right side for air in the system, ESP if work done on that side.QuoteBrake imbalance, air in system maybe. They do tow out under braking, look at the side that does not toe out for brake efficiency
Or
Fubar bushes, the side that toes out loosing control of the suspension arm. Lever the wishbones about with a pry bar, do they feel the same both sides?
Are all the parts matched pairs. Like wishbones, shocks, springs, and all the brake components?
Thanks - all checked new powerflex put in and rock solid everything is good. Have managed to source another vehicle and I am definately convinced there is imbalance in the brakes. Master cylinder, hoses, pipes, discs, calipers and pads etc are all checked or replaced so now we will start swaping abs parts from the donor to see if we can find a faulty item. I am not throwing any more money at this until i can isolate the culprit part! If this fails i am throwing in the towel!
Any other ideas welcome please
Front wishbone bush is polly now you say, what about the rearward vertical bush? (sorry, speed reading this a bit. On a crap connection)
I am watching this thread with interest.. as mine sometimes behaves similiar..
many things can cause that behaviour..
brake calipers,pistons, shocks, wishbones, front geometry items, tire pressure difference etc..
is there any play (gap) in steering ?
and also during checks a faulty item may be, not controlled completely :-/
also measure the distances of all tires to bumpers..
are all the tyers the same size??
Brake imbalance, air in system maybe. They do tow out under braking, look at the side that does not toe out for brake efficiency
Or
Fubar bushes, the side that toes out loosing control of the suspension arm. Lever the wishbones about with a pry bar, do they feel the same both sides?
Are all the parts matched pairs. Like wishbones, shocks, springs, and all the brake components?
perhaps collapsed brake hose, rare but can happen, how do they look?
QuoteThe car will always follow the camber given half a chance.
If constant prodding and poking doesn't help, then the only solution is:
New not s/h:
Struts
Wishbones
Idler
Track rods
This was the solution on mine. The shocks had gone soft throwing the front end all over the place. combine this with worn/iffy bushes and the wheels do VERY strange things when you load the suspension up during braking/cornering.
Having seen my wheels do what you've described, it is quite chilling
Even if the front shocks seem to test ok, change them.
Not good news, but HTH
Knackered steering idler would cause n/s wheel to "kick" under braking
weak spring/shock or tyre pressure:-/
My van had this, which I thought was due to the calliper sticking on, when the calliper was changed it helped a lot, and then I got the tracking done which solved the issue.
QuotePresumably its been on a brake tester to check for brake imbalance?Cheers- Every time we have done work to the front the allignment has been checked and is ok. When the brakes are applied the car dives for the hedge. When being driven the car is 100% no drifting to left or right, crabbing, tyre wear or any other symptoms of allignment issues.
