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I mean, I know it's your hobby and you'll end up with a really nice car, but is it really worth throwing all this money at? If it were mine, I think I'd be shitting myself about now.
If the unthinkable were to happen, what would the insurance payout be like?

Finally got hold of the reinforcement frame to tick another item off the list on The Proper Car.

How much is this project going to cost you, and how much do you think it will be worth at the end?

Finally got hold of the reinforcement frame to tick another item off the list on The Proper Car.

Running total update:

Factory option cost: £9,535.00. £9,775.00

Retrofit installation cost: £5,739.00. £6,294.00.

Effective saving: £3,796.00. £3,481.00.

Revised...

7. Remote boot closing.

Hydraulic pump and ECU go under the right boot trim. Remove boot lining, boot lid lining and boot rear panel. Run wiring from boot lid switch to rear SAM and forward to the Canbus hub under the driver's seat and refit panels. Hydraulic arm connects to pivot balls on inner quarter and hinge. Clip ECU into bracket in boot. Replace switch in driver's door for correct one.

Three hours all told.

Items required:
Switch. Used £115.
ECU. Used £45. New. £365.00
Bootlid trim and switch. Used £40.
Hydraulic unit. Used £76.
Harness. New £70.

Factory option cost: £410.

Total cost: £346. £666.

Saving: £64. -£301.

13. Through Loading Hatch. Ostensibly for the Ski Bag Option and Rear Fridge option.

Remove panel from front of boot, undo and remove reinforcement frame from floor and parcel shelf.
Pop the rear SAM/fuse box out, fit the fridge wiring fuse holder and harness, and pop the rear SAM back.
Run the ground wire to a suitable point.
Fit the new (used) reinforcement frame with the mounting hardware for the hatch and fridge securing points.
Fit the new (used) front panel and hatch, remembering to run the cable out of the receptive.

Inside the car, lift the centre rear seat base and fit the ski bag/through load front attachment hardware and refit the seat base.

An easy hour or so, but actually took about 3 as I included a wiring repair for the Dynamic Seat Pump... It's had a grounding fault recorded since I bought the car and replacing the pump didn't cure it.

Items required:
Through load armrest cubby, (fitted when I put the rear seats in).
Boot panel.
Hatch. These three were used and purchased together, £120.00.
Wiring Harness, New, £20.00.
Hardware, Attachment Hardware, and Screws, New, £15.00.
Reinforcement Frame, used, £80.00.

Factory Option Cost: £240.00.

Total Cost: £235.00.

Saving: £5.00*.

*The factory option includes the ski bag, still available new, ~£380.00
Fridge is an £800.00 option on its own. Have an eye on a couple but they are around £700.00 used

Far as I remember, when replaced my rad (in V6), the AC-lines where bit on the way, but I didn´t have to disconnect them. As they came from drivers side over the rad (in LHD cars), I needed to raise the other (passengers) side of tha radiator first and then it can be slid off from its place pretty easily

Dougal

And whilst ranting about Cisco - it's a daily chore in my professional life - their useless crap servers....

Like all server manufacturers, they provide an out of band management capability, provided in Cisco's case by what they call Cisco Integrated Management Console, or CIMC.  And it goes non responsive all the time.  It has a watchdog timer to restart it should it go unresponsive, but apparently that runs from the CIMC itself, and therefore goes unresponsive itself at the same time.  Cisco's solution, rather than fix the bloody shit?  Suggest we do a 260 mile round trip to pull the power cables out for 2 minutes.  The irony of having to do that to fix out of band management is lost on them.

I mean, when was the last time you saw an HPE iLO of Dell iDRAC lock up?  I'm guessing never.

                 Jesus!  What the hell does all that mean? I could understand Swahili better😵‍💫.  Anyway I don’t like that or them either 👍

Waiting 7 hours to have a brake fluid change done