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[TheBoy]

I'm going to do my second ever cambelt in August. I asked you (TB) to supervise but TBH I feel confident following Mark's video guide.

only issue is... am i right in thinking new belts dont have the cam lines/marks on? how are you meant to know youve got it on the right tooth? 

 

You can di it here, if you want someone looking over your shoulder

[Webby the Bear]

I'm going to do my second ever cambelt in August. I asked you (TB) to supervise but TBH I feel confident following Mark's video guide.

only issue is... am i right in thinking new belts dont have the cam lines/marks on? how are you meant to know youve got it on the right tooth? 

 

You can di it here, if you want someone looking over your shoulder

Thanks TB. Really appreciate that. I think I'll be fine though... but if i get stuck ill give you a bell.

i'm fairly sure that just after i did the cambelt on ralf they brought out the belts that werent marked so unsure as where to place them on the cam sprockets.... other than that im pretty confident about it all

[Andy H]

I'm going to do my second ever cambelt in August. I asked you (TB) to supervise but TBH I feel confident following Mark's video guide.

only issue is... am i right in thinking new belts dont have the cam lines/marks on? how are you meant to know youve got it on the right tooth? 

 

Because the timing marks line up.

It does get easier with practice. The hardest part is removing all the bits that are in the way (eg bag pipes). With the cam locks in place (and the crank locking tool wound back slightly to remove the tension) taking the old one off and slipping the new one back on correctly isn't difficult.

The bit I seem to spend too much time on is getting the torque settings 'just so'

Sorry Andy, what marks do you mean? i didnt think the belt had any on at all (well new belts)

The marks on the engine cam sprockets and timing tool.
With everything locked in the correct place (eg cams locked and crankshaft backed off slightly) you start by fitting the belt to the crank pulley then run up the kerb side of the engine and the cambelt teeth should just drop in to the teeth on the bank 2 cam pulleys.
You then have to get the belt on to the bank 1 cam pulleys at the same time as (loosely) fitting the top idler and then fit the spring tensioner.
You should now be able to wind the crank backforward to TDC and adjust the idler(s) and spring tensioner to take out all the slack. If you can't then you are a tooth out.

It is harder to write about than it is to do (if you have the right instructor).

TB/TFS will see you right

[Webby the Bear]

I'm going to do my second ever cambelt in August. I asked you (TB) to supervise but TBH I feel confident following Mark's video guide.

only issue is... am i right in thinking new belts dont have the cam lines/marks on? how are you meant to know youve got it on the right tooth? 

 

Because the timing marks line up.

It does get easier with practice. The hardest part is removing all the bits that are in the way (eg bag pipes). With the cam locks in place (and the crank locking tool wound back slightly to remove the tension) taking the old one off and slipping the new one back on correctly isn't difficult.

The bit I seem to spend too much time on is getting the torque settings 'just so'

Sorry Andy, what marks do you mean? i didnt think the belt had any on at all (well new belts)

The marks on the engine cam sprockets and timing tool.
With everything locked in the correct place (eg cams locked and crankshaft backed off slightly) you start by fitting the belt to the crank pulley then run up the kerb side of the engine and the cambelt teeth should just drop in to the teeth on the bank 2 cam pulleys.
You then have to get the belt on to the bank 1 cam pulleys at the same time as (loosely) fitting the top idler and then fit the spring tensioner.
You should now be able to wind the crank backforward to TDC and adjust the idler(s) and spring tensioner to take out all the slack. If you can't then you are a tooth out.

It is harder to write about than it is to do (if you have the right instructor).

TB/TFS will see you right

cheers andy, that's wehere i'm going wrong then cos I went up the left hand side and placed on bank 1. I actually got it a tooth out to start with and the idler wouldn't move the cam sprockets as much as I needed so I knew I was a tooth out.... bloody awkward though. why cant they just put the belt marks back? 

[Andy H]

Oops. Just realised that both your idlers are probably adjustable.

If so then I don't think you need to wind the crank back - fit the idler loose then use it to take up the worst of the slack before moving on to bank 1.

[YZ250]

BTW, to this day, I still haven't ever done a cambelt on my Silver Bullet

Why have a dog and bark

Its overdue. I should order one.  Maybe when the weather is warmer

Mines well under mileage but over on years by .......errr......I'm not telling you as I should no better.   
Doing it this month.......yep..... definitely this month.......ish. 

[terry paget]

In the last three years I have found Vx kits very basic; no lines on belts, no instructions, plain boxes. I prefer SKF kits, these come with lines on the belt, new bolts, and instructions in 20 languages; they are cheaper too.

[TheBoy]

In the last three years I have found Vx kits very basic; no lines on belts, no instructions, plain boxes. I prefer SKF kits, these come with lines on the belt, new bolts, and instructions in 20 languages; they are cheaper too.

The lines and instructions don't bother me, but even on tradeclub, the GM ones are too dear. So I tend to use Conti or Gates kits.