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Author Topic: Stem seals and lapping  (Read 2567 times)

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omega3000

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Re: Stem seals and lapping
« Reply #15 on: 24 May 2013, 11:39:22 »

Well just to be sure ill pull the plugs again and double check  :y If it comes to it and i replace the seals i think i would take the head off for ease of access , change the head gasket and cam belt too .. mite as well go the whole hog eh  :)
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Andy H

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Re: Stem seals and lapping
« Reply #16 on: 25 May 2013, 10:10:07 »

I don't see any reason to do this job going by what you have said.  If the plugs are clear then there is nothing wrong with the seals.

To do what you discuss without removing the head requires a lot of pressure in the cyl otherwise it will not withstand the pressure of pressing the spring and then you are in a world of hurt.  If you are really adamant and want to do this (even though I think you don't need to) I would instead look at something which compresses the springs in situ, however if you can find one that will fit the 2.0 engine you are better than me (I spent months trying to find one for mine and failed)
Not true. The valve spring acts between the cylinder head and the spring cap. You don't need the valve to bear the force of the compressed valve spring (although with a traditional valve spring compressor it is required to take the force of the spring AND the force required to break the taper)

I found that compressing the spring initially caused the valve to open slightly but rocking the spring cap broke the hold of the taper between the collets and the cap and the air pressure then popped the valve shut. I think I set the regulator on my compressor to about 25psi but the pressure didn't really seem to matter
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"Deja Moo - The feeling that you've heard this bull somewhere before."

omega3000

  • Guest
Re: Stem seals and lapping
« Reply #17 on: 28 May 2013, 10:23:14 »

I don't see any reason to do this job going by what you have said.  If the plugs are clear then there is nothing wrong with the seals.

To do what you discuss without removing the head requires a lot of pressure in the cyl otherwise it will not withstand the pressure of pressing the spring and then you are in a world of hurt.  If you are really adamant and want to do this (even though I think you don't need to) I would instead look at something which compresses the springs in situ, however if you can find one that will fit the 2.0 engine you are better than me (I spent months trying to find one for mine and failed)
Not true. The valve spring acts between the cylinder head and the spring cap. You don't need the valve to bear the force of the compressed valve spring (although with a traditional valve spring compressor it is required to take the force of the spring AND the force required to break the taper)

I found that compressing the spring initially caused the valve to open slightly but rocking the spring cap broke the hold of the taper between the collets and the cap and the air pressure then popped the valve shut. I think I set the regulator on my compressor to about 25psi but the pressure didn't really seem to matter

 :y
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