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Author Topic: alloy wheel paint.  (Read 4115 times)

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albitz

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hoody

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Re: alloy wheel paint.
« Reply #16 on: 08 June 2013, 22:08:54 »

thanks for the link :y
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dbdb

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Re: alloy wheel paint.
« Reply #17 on: 10 June 2013, 00:07:51 »

Agreed, aluminium/aluminium alloy needs an etch primer for good paint adhesion ;)

I always use epoxy and it never missed a beat :)

Cost cem  ;)

1 galon of good quality epoxy approx 60-70£.. once you buy, believe me its cheap ;D you can paint everything ;D ;D

I've not had brilliant results with epoxy glue and aluminium.  Not nearly as good as steel anyway.  I suspect any paint or glue would stick better to clean oxidised aluminum than to freshly sanded alu.  Alu is very keen to oxidise albeit only the surface. 
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cem_devecioglu

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Re: alloy wheel paint.
« Reply #18 on: 10 June 2013, 09:54:52 »

Agreed, aluminium/aluminium alloy needs an etch primer for good paint adhesion ;)

I always use epoxy and it never missed a beat :)

Cost cem  ;)

1 galon of good quality epoxy approx 60-70£.. once you buy, believe me its cheap ;D you can paint everything ;D ;D

I've not had brilliant results with epoxy glue and aluminium.  Not nearly as good as steel anyway.  I suspect any paint or glue would stick better to clean oxidised aluminum than to freshly sanded alu.  Alu is very keen to oxidise albeit only the surface.

painted 2 sets of alu wheels , not even a scratch or stone chip on epoxy but paint and laquer had small damages from stone chips as expected..   what brand you use ?
 
ps: I'm using glassurite brand , also tested on plastic parts without primer and no problems so far.. :-\
« Last Edit: 10 June 2013, 09:59:04 by cem »
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cem_devecioglu

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Re: alloy wheel paint.
« Reply #19 on: 10 June 2013, 09:58:33 »

as a general rule, epoxy primer is too much dependant on application rather than the surface..
 
hardener ratio and surface thickness and dry-up time (before actual painting) is critical,
 
if it didnt dry up properly you can remove even with your finger nail..
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dbdb

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Re: alloy wheel paint.
« Reply #20 on: 10 June 2013, 11:37:01 »

here's how they look one year on  :y

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=114643.msg1458624#msg1458624
wow that's pretty convincing that the paint works direct on freshly sanded aluminium with no primer. 
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Olympia5776

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Re: alloy wheel paint.
« Reply #21 on: 10 June 2013, 20:08:34 »

I painted one spoke and a section of rim on a set of Elite alloys I bought about 5 years ago . After a lot of searching I found that most German manufactured alloys wheels use Wurth paint . Here's a couple of photos of the repair , as you can see the flake size and shade  are exactly as original . I used U-Pol UV resistent lacquer to finish.
There has been no deterioration in the finish over the years.
The painted spoke


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Mr.OmegaMan

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Re: alloy wheel paint.
« Reply #22 on: 10 June 2013, 20:12:50 »

Nice Job!  :y
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dbdb

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Re: alloy wheel paint.
« Reply #23 on: 11 June 2013, 01:49:42 »

Can't see the join at all, great job. Can we take bets on which spoke it is in the final photo? £500 says it's the ten o'clock one  ;)

Was that direct onto sanded ally as well or did you use a primer on the bare metal?
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Olympia5776

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Re: alloy wheel paint.
« Reply #24 on: 11 June 2013, 21:31:46 »

I struck lucky buying a set of Elite wheels off E bay and when they arrived they were literally boxed and as new. One wheel had two light scratch marks which had went through the paint and  into the alloy . I flatted back the scratches to the alloy base feathering the old paint filled and smoothed the scratches ,although as I said they were very light ,and then applied several light coats of U-Pol high build primer flattening back with wet 1200 grit after each coat . The remainder of the wheel was in such perfect condition I wanted to keep the painting to a minimum. I think there are three light coats of Wurth paint ( It must have been 6 years ago now although the photos are dated 2010 ) At that time I was using aerosols .
The lacquer is U-Pol UV resistent No 1 which I always used until I started spraying with a compressor , and found it absolutley clear with no taint. I would have applied six or eight light to medium coats of lacquer allowing time to flash off in between and wet flatted with 1200 or 1500  every second coat . The last coat was 2000 grit wet and then compounded and polished.The finish is still as day 1 .
The re painted spoke is at 11 o'clock in the last photo.( I think............. :-\ ) and the repair continues to the rim of the spoke on the other side of the valve port taking in the recess for the valve port and up to about 3/4 " from the rim .
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