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Author Topic: Gas Fire Help.  (Read 3540 times)

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Andy H

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Re: Gas Fire Help.
« Reply #15 on: 11 December 2013, 19:11:14 »
Quote from: Jusme on 11 December 2013, 16:40:08
I don't think so EMD as there is no spark, so nothing to heat the thermacoupling. Thanks for the info Phil, but drew a blank. Phoned the bloke who installed it. 'Blimey mate, I put that in in 2005, that's a really old fire, and there is no way I could get to you for weeks. I started an installation 3 weeks ago and haven't been able to finish that yet due to breakdowns'. ( and this helps me how EXACTLY?) But what he did say which was of interest is, 'I'll bet the extractor fan in the flue has seized up'. Coat on, torch in hand, outside I go.....  :'(
Did you find one?
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Jusme

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Re: Gas Fire Help.
« Reply #16 on: 11 December 2013, 19:20:39 »
Hi Andy, fraid not, refer to post 9. it uses the original chimney.  ;)
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Under-steer is when the front of the car hits the wall, and over-steer is when the rear of the car hits the wall.
Power is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how much of the wall you take with you.

bigegg

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Re: Gas Fire Help.
« Reply #17 on: 11 December 2013, 19:24:34 »
If it IS the sparky thing, the actual igniter part (bent wire, ceramic insulator) usually just unscrews, then you go to your local plumbing supply and buy a replacement. - or at least the last two I bought (one for the cooker hob, one for my gas fire) were like that
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Re: Gas Fire Help.
« Reply #18 on: 11 December 2013, 19:34:05 »
Quote from: Jusme on 11 December 2013, 19:20:39
Hi Andy, fraid not, refer to post 9. it uses the original chimney.  ;)
Are you sure there's not a flue liner up the chimney with a fan?
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Vamps

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Re: Gas Fire Help.
« Reply #19 on: 11 December 2013, 21:53:18 »
Quote from: Kevin Wood on 11 December 2013, 16:56:24
If there's no spark, it won't be the solenoid, as that controls the flow of gas. Seriously - it'll probably be that the electrodes are now too far apart for the spark to jump the gap, or the HT wire to the electrode has fallen off, broken or shorted against the chassis somewhere. Sounds like he didn't bother to do too much diag to me. In fact, it sounds like he didn't know the basic principle of operation. Some "engineer"!

That said, if it's got a fanned flue, there will probably be an interlock to detect a pressure differential before it starts to fire up, so the second guy might be on the money.

Download a service manual for the device. It'll tell you how it works.

What Kevin said and no reason why you can't look at this yourself, it does not involve working on the gas side............ ;) ;)
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PhilRich

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Re: Gas Fire Help.
« Reply #20 on: 11 December 2013, 21:54:01 »
Find the Manufacturers Specification tag and post the exact model details stated thereon & we may be able to find a Service Book online as Kevin Wood stated earlier ;)
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Jusme

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Re: Gas Fire Help.
« Reply #21 on: 11 December 2013, 22:09:34 »
Seriously - it'll probably be that the electrodes are now too far apart for the spark to jump the gap, or the HT wire to the electrode has fallen off, broken or shorted against the chassis somewhere. The gap between the igniter and the electrode is 3.5mm. the igniter has a 2mm offset toward the back of the fire. HT wire is sound and tight in its housing it still has a rubber sheath cover. there is nowhere for it to short out as I have it laying across the hearth, not touching any metal. I have copied the installation manual for Kevin thanks for his kind offer, but have no idea where to send it? As said before the chimney is the flue. Looking up into the chimney, about 6 - 8" above the fire something has been placed in there with 3 large holes in it. The installation manual has no mention of fan, just minimum internal dimensions of chimney necessary. The whole pilot assembly incorporates pilot/ igniter and thermo. Removed the coals tried to light it with a match, but safety cutouts will not allow it.
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Under-steer is when the front of the car hits the wall, and over-steer is when the rear of the car hits the wall.
Power is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how much of the wall you take with you.

Vamps

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Re: Gas Fire Help.
« Reply #22 on: 11 December 2013, 22:48:25 »
Quote from: Jusme on 11 December 2013, 22:09:34
Seriously - it'll probably be that the electrodes are now too far apart for the spark to jump the gap, or the HT wire to the electrode has fallen off, broken or shorted against the chassis somewhere. The gap between the igniter and the electrode is 3.5mm. the igniter has a 2mm offset toward the back of the fire. HT wire is sound and tight in its housing it still has a rubber sheath cover. there is nowhere for it to short out as I have it laying across the hearth, not touching any metal. I have copied the installation manual for Kevin thanks for his kind offer, but have no idea where to send it? As said before the chimney is the flue. Looking up into the chimney, about 6 - 8" above the fire something has been placed in there with 3 large holes in it. The installation manual has no mention of fan, just minimum internal dimensions of chimney necessary. The whole pilot assembly incorporates pilot/ igniter and thermo. Removed the coals tried to light it with a match, but safety cutouts will not allow it.

Did you hold the button in for a while?............. ;) ;)
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Jusme

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Re: Gas Fire Help.
« Reply #23 on: 11 December 2013, 23:54:13 »
Sorry Vamps, NO button on this set-up. You just hit the 'on' switch on the wall... 
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Under-steer is when the front of the car hits the wall, and over-steer is when the rear of the car hits the wall.
Power is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how much of the wall you take with you.
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