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[steve6367]

Order replacements from Carz2 and get someone to cut off the old ones weld the new ones on for you.

If you want to thoroughly depress yourself take the front wheels off and start scrapping away at the lack of underseal around the chassis rail / engine tray mount reinforcement.

Don't do that, I did - mistake!

Do tell?

Front chassis rails on the gold one, posted pics a while ago - still not sorted - must learn to weld.

[Doctor Gollum]

Easily dealt with Tunnie

[tunnie]

I can't weld 

Insurance is due and some big trips coming up, sorry to think it,
but maybe time to say bye to it, as I love my 2.2. But times change. 

Looked at 3.0d XF today, super nice loved everything about it, bar the boot. Not big enough for my needs.

Going to look at a VW CC tomorrow, boot looks surpsingly practical, taking the pram so will see what's what.

[Doctor Gollum]

I can't weld 

Insurance is due and some big trips coming up, sorry to think it,
but maybe time to say bye to it, as I love my 2.2. But times change. 

Looked at 3.0d XF today, super nice loved everything about it, bar the boot. Not big enough for my needs.

Going to look at a VW CC tomorrow, boot looks surpsingly practical, taking the pram so will see what's what.

Pm incoming...

[tunnie]

Just to discuss, what is the legal view on this? As discussed an MOT tester cannot remove the skirts to view this corrosion. So it must get to the point where grows into view?

It has a MOT for 12 months, now looking at this corrosion it's been like this for some time, so it's passed other MOT's.

Is there anything stopping me from sanding back all the rust, with a wire brush on a drill, slap on some underbody seal, eg this: (as I have a tin in the garage, from LPG fitting)



Then re-fit the skirts? I understand it won't actually remove the rust, just slow it's progress. But the above would give me another couple of years?

[tunnie]

As part of me wants to splash some cash and get a nice new car, but driving it to work today makes me think I should save my trusty steed.

[Sir Tigger KC]

Getting someone to weld in a couple of new sills won't that expensive surely? 

[Nick W]

It's currently at the stage where fitting replacement sills is straightforward. If you leave it, that rot will quickly eat into the adjoining panels adding to complexity and cost of the job. The ONLY way of preventing that is to cut out the rusty metal. The chemical cures rarely do anything useful, and underseal is just a messy way of trying to hide the damage.

Arrange some welding, or scrap the car.

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

The bodge might get you another years ticket, but if the structure of the car is rotting away behind the plastic, say a little prayer each time you take your family out in it that you don't have an accident of some sort. 

[Diamond Black Geezer]

where Waxoyl gets is bad reputation is people painting over rust with it, thinking it's some kind of rust-curer, rather than preventer ((event hough there are much better products about these days) You can find on many a classic car a lovely layer of old, dry waxoyl, which flakes off, to reveal a floorpan of rot, because the car's started to rust, someone has then 'helpfully' covered it with the waxoyl. All you're doing is covering up the bad bits, painting over the cracks.

It's all on a cost v miles thing. Do you want the car for another few years? If so, then worth spending the money. Even 'bodge' repairs will buy you a bit of time. But just painting over it won't do much/anything, and won't guarantee an MoT pass, either. 


They're not rusty cars, and the rear sills and back arches seem the only real areas that 'go', keep on top of them and you're sitting pretty in bodywork terms. 

[steve6367]

where Waxoyl gets is bad reputation is people painting over rust with it, thinking it's some kind of rust-curer, rather than preventer ((event hough there are much better products about these days) You can find on many a classic car a lovely layer of old, dry waxoyl, which flakes off, to reveal a floorpan of rot, because the car's started to rust, someone has then 'helpfully' covered it with the waxoyl. All you're doing is covering up the bad bits, painting over the cracks.

It's all on a cost v miles thing. Do you want the car for another few years? If so, then worth spending the money. Even 'bodge' repairs will buy you a bit of time. But just painting over it won't do much/anything, and won't guarantee an MoT pass, either. 


They're not rusty cars, and the rear sills and back arches seem the only real areas that 'go', keep on top of them and you're sitting pretty in bodywork terms. 

Front chassis rails to inner wing joint, front cross member......

[Diamond Black Geezer]

Them too... 

[Nick W]

Them too... 

They're worse to fix. And every Omega I've looked under recently has been crusty in that area. Sills are easy and cheap. The expensive part of fixing wheelarches is the preparation for paint.