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[biggriffin]

that said, I do normally retap mine. Anal, I know.

Not anal .... just correct  that's what I did when I did  mine

And use proper exhaust bolts, and I coppaslip the thread.

Is a 'proper' exhaust bolt stainless?  

 

no their mild steel with copper nuts.  even on a full stainless RR system.

mine are m8, mild steel, washers n nuts, flanges drilled with 8 drill and wiggled about, 

[Andy B]

that said, I do normally retap mine. Anal, I know.

Not anal .... just correct  that's what I did when I did  mine

And use proper exhaust bolts, and I coppaslip the thread.

Is a 'proper' exhaust bolt stainless?  

 

no their mild steel with copper nuts.  even on a full stainless RR system.

mine are m8, mild steel, washers n nuts, flanges drilled with 8 drill and wiggled about, 

Mine were stainless on a full stainless system with s/s washers ...... courtesy of the stores at my previous place of work 

[biggriffin]

that said, I do normally retap mine. Anal, I know.

Not anal .... just correct  that's what I did when I did  mine

And use proper exhaust bolts, and I coppaslip the thread.

Is a 'proper' exhaust bolt stainless?  

 

no their mild steel with copper nuts.  even on a full stainless RR system.

mine are m8, mild steel, washers n nuts, flanges drilled with 8 drill and wiggled about, 

Mine were stainless on a full stainless system with s/s washers ...... courtesy of the stores at my previous place of work 

stainless bolts actually cost no more than mild when bought in bulk, cheapest's places to buy stainless bolts is Aberdeen, GT Yarmouth, and Lancaster, due to the offshore industry. 

[terry paget]

My solution is not to break them off in the first place. I achieve this by first heating the flange and bolt to red heat with a blow torch. I allow it to cool, spray with penetrating oil, then gingerly apply torque with a spanner. If it moves a bit, and it usually does, I spray with more oil and turn it back and forth a bit to work the oil into it. Then I undo it a bit more, more oil, more to and fro, until it turns freely. Then I fully unscrew it, discard the screw, and clean the thread with a tap or better a thread cleaner. I reassemble with a new screw and copper ease.

Having broken off many in the past, I find this exercise most satisfying, and have not broken one off since I adopted this technique. It helps having a pit.

[omega2018]

cobalt drills good choice.  If they are a decent make they probably will be split points.  BUT cobalt drill bits are very brittle - do not apply any sideways force whatsoever and very little downforce.  it will be a much bigger pain if they snap off in the holes - you can't drill out a stuck cobalt drill bit.

I vaguely remember using an angle grinder with thin disc to cut the bolts first.