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Author Topic: GRP repair  (Read 548 times)

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Martin_1962

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GRP repair
« on: 10 August 2008, 21:53:34 »

Need to fix the shower tray, any advice - popped out around the drain hole?

What is the best way to reinforce it?
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Mr Skrunts

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Re: GRP repair
« Reply #1 on: 10 August 2008, 21:55:41 »

Quote
Need to fix the shower tray, any advice - popped out around the drain hole?

What is the best way to reinforce it?

Wait for Debs to pop online.  Am sure she will give as good advice as you are likely to get.  :y :y
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Bandit127

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Re: GRP repair
« Reply #2 on: 10 August 2008, 21:57:27 »

Yep. Debs is "yer man". So to speak...
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HolyCount

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Re: GRP repair
« Reply #3 on: 10 August 2008, 22:14:59 »

Quote
Quote
Need to fix the shower tray, any advice - popped out around the drain hole?

What is the best way to reinforce it?

Wait for Debs to pop online.  Am sure she will give as good advice as you are likely to get.  :y :y

Or "The Laminatrix", as she likes to be known these days  :o
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Mr Skrunts

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Re: GRP repair
« Reply #4 on: 10 August 2008, 22:17:45 »

Quote
Quote
Quote
Need to fix the shower tray, any advice - popped out around the drain hole?

What is the best way to reinforce it?

Wait for Debs to pop online.  Am sure she will give as good advice as you are likely to get.  :y :y

Or "The Laminatrix", as she likes to be known these days  :o

I luvit when the ladies talk "Dirty"  ;D ;D
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Debs.

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Re: GRP repair
« Reply #5 on: 10 August 2008, 22:29:31 »

If the tray is truly GRP (moulded with a polyester-resin matrix) then a good degrease and coarse abrading, followed by the addition of extra stiffening plies and 'ribs' to increase the modulus (if needed).
Reinforcing (of course) applied to the underside not the smooth gel-coat 'nice' side!

Glass-filled aliphatic cast resin trays are trickier to repair/reinforce and many resin systems will not adequately bond to them.

If the tray is GRP (with cloth or chopped-strand glassfibre in a Polyester matrix) then, any of the automotive/modeling resin kits would give acceptable results; and you might try including stiffening ribs into the glassed-repair (ribs made from 3/4" thick plywood strips of suitable length, with rounded edges and 'ramped' ends.)
« Last Edit: 10 August 2008, 22:33:31 by Debs. »
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Mr Skrunts

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Re: GRP repair
« Reply #6 on: 10 August 2008, 22:33:35 »

Quote
If the tray is truly GRP (moulded with a polyester-resin matrix) then a good degrease and coarse abrading, followed by the addition of extra stiffening plies and 'ribs' to increase the modulus (if needed).

Glass-filled aliphatic cast resin trays are trickier to repair/reinforce and many resin systems will not adequately bond to them.

If the tray is GRP (with cloth or chopped-strand glassfibre in a Polyester matrix) then, any of the automotive/modeling resin kits would give acceptable results; and you might try including stiffening ribs into the glassed-repair (ribs made from 3/4" thick plywood strips of suitable length, with rounded edges and 'ramped' ends.)


There you go, exactly what I would have recommended.



MMMm, just need to get my little GRP book out to see what it all means now.   ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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philhoward

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Re: GRP repair
« Reply #7 on: 10 August 2008, 22:39:46 »

I've seen foam used as a stiffener block to good effect as well - pipe insulation cut in half lengthways.

The trick is getting a good key, as "The Laminatrix" says.  Just make sure each layer is suitably stippled to remove any air.

I've had good results with repairs on both hand-matted panels and also injected "castings" - just as long as the key is good.  I found an angle grinder good for making a cross hatch keying pattern helps - but don't forget to use a mask and overalls!
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Running an X30XE in a Reliant Scimitar GTE as I can't have an Omega as a company car...
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