good luck Pete, looking forward to some pics.
Btw did you get it towed home as it 'broke down' 
Morning Tunnie
No I hired a van and trailer.
Well looks like headgasket failure as there is mayo in the oil filler and on the dipstick but no oil in the water 
Any advice?
For what it's worth, my ametuer Advice...
Oil on dipstick is pointing to HeadG failure. If the car runs, it may be worth confirming this by either use of an exhaust sniffer in the header tank, or sticking your nose in there to see if you can smell exhaust fumes.
Any other symptoms? Steam/white smoke from exhaust?
If you do have to strip the heads off (which I think you will) then don't panic, it's NOT a bad job. The key is to be methodical, work in a tidy environment, and take your time.
Bagpipes off, timing cover/belt/etc off, Plenum off, trumpets/inlet off, secondary air injection off, rocker covers off, coolant bridge and stat off... basically strip down everything in the way of the heads! Then off with the camshafts, (remove the bolts on the caps equally) .. and then off with the head bolts, and the head. There will be the DIS and connectors on the passenger side head.
You'll probably have to remove the passenger head FIRST, so you can access the solid coolant pipe at the back of the engine.. which will enable to remove the driver side head.
While it's apart - things to watch for.
1) Follow MARK DTM guide for checking the followers.
2) refit with new water pump and timing belt kit.
3) If the oil cooler is ok, re-seal the plate while it's accessible, and also renew all the coolant bridge sealing washers x4.
4) If leads are less than perfect, how is a good time to change them, along with new plugs.
Can't remember the head bolt torques, but I think the camshaft caps have to be done up to 8nm, and they have to be equally tightened, that's v important.
Only final point, is while heads are off, is your prime opportunity to get the manifolds on to them PERFECTLY! Remove all studs, make sure surfaces are flat on the head and the manifold, and refit with new studs. If you want them not to work loose, you'll have to torque in stages I believe GeffD said once.
While the heads are also off, if funds permit, get them pressure tested etc, do the valve stem seals, and make sure the mating surfaces are within limits.
Most of all, remember it's a project car, so don't sweat if it doesn't go to plan, and most of all HAVE FUN!!!
There's a lot to be learned from doing jobs like this.....
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Topic: Pete's project (Read 1270 times)