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[TheBoy]

I'm just about to remove actuator.

How easy should it be to manually turn valve (ie fingers, or pliers), and is it OK to do this with the actuator removed?

[Debs.]

With the fingers quite firm to move (there is a 'flat' on the small dia. shaft); bearing in mind it only moves a few degrees either way (from mid position).....using pliers it should be easy to move...although sometimes they get 'gummed' if not used for a while as the valve-vane is rubber seating on brass.

[Lazydocker]

Yet again Debs is the first to come back with the info...

One of the things which make this forum so great is the fact that we men aren't afraid to accept that sometimes a woman knows what she's talking about when she gives advice!

It's another one to add to the list though Debs... Heating Engineer

[edit]I must add... I didn't have a clue so bow to Debs' superior knowledge

I'd have just said to try and turn it [/edit]

[psl]

it wont turn quickly, they go from one position to outher at  a slowish pace.

[STMO123]

I've had two of those replaced in three years (Siemens)

[TheBoy]

With the fingers quite firm to move (there is a 'flat' on the small dia. shaft); bearing in mind it only moves a few degrees either way (from mid position).....using pliers it should be easy to move...although sometimes they get 'gummed' if not used for a while as the valve-vane is rubber seating on brass.

Cheers Debs

Mine was incredibly hard to move with just fingers, so I have freed it up moving with tools.  Mine is the type that can rotate 360 degrees. It is now movable through the 90 degrees movement by fingers.

Should the valve itself be spring loaded, or is that all in the actuator? Doesn't feel like any spring in the valve - it stays where you leave it.

The little 'manual' lever on my actuator seems suspect, and the spring in the actuator doesn't seem to be strong enough to return it purely to the HW setting. Motors have the power to move to CH OK.


So, change the actuator (dead easy), the valve (need to drain down), or both?


Like many newer houses, valve is a Danfoss Randall HS3 (HSV3 valve with HSA3 actuator)

[Debs.]

With the fingers quite firm to move (there is a 'flat' on the small dia. shaft); bearing in mind it only moves a few degrees either way (from mid position).....using pliers it should be easy to move...although sometimes they get 'gummed' if not used for a while as the valve-vane is rubber seating on brass.

Cheers Debs

Mine was incredibly hard to move with just fingers, so I have freed it up moving with tools.  Mine is the type that can rotate 360 degrees. It is now movable through the 90 degrees movement by fingers.

Should the valve itself be spring loaded, or is that all in the actuator? Doesn't feel like any spring in the valve - it stays where you leave it.

The little 'manual' lever on my actuator seems suspect, and the spring in the actuator doesn't seem to be strong enough to return it purely to the HW setting. Motors have the power to move to CH OK.


So, change the actuator (dead easy), the valve (need to drain down), or both?


Like many newer houses, valve is a Danfoss Randall HS3 (HSV3 valve with HSA3 actuator)

The one`s I`ve worked on were spring-biased (depending on brand; either to the mid-position or to the H/W).....Like anything with rusty/calcified hot water passing through it, they can and do 'stick' and if the actuator is still working but just 'weak', then I`d change the whole valve assembly and avail myself of the opportunity to drain down and add a new dose of system protector additive.

Danfoss Data Sheet: http://www.uk-plumbing.com/brochure/danfoss/HPHSdata.pdf

Installation/Wiring Instructions: http://www.uk-plumbing.com/brochure/danfoss/HPHSInstall.pdf

[Pitchfork]

I've got a Satchwell valve which stuck & not knowing why the central heating was coming on withthe hot water, called in a plumber.
He diagnosed a sticking valve, squirted WD40 on the shaft, turned it with pliers a few times - & charged £70 (it was Xmas)
So now when it did it again I knew how to remedy it
Might work for your Danfoss too!

[unlucky mark mv6]

Have your heating power flushed before changing it.

[TheBoy]

With the fingers quite firm to move (there is a 'flat' on the small dia. shaft); bearing in mind it only moves a few degrees either way (from mid position).....using pliers it should be easy to move...although sometimes they get 'gummed' if not used for a while as the valve-vane is rubber seating on brass.

Cheers Debs

Mine was incredibly hard to move with just fingers, so I have freed it up moving with tools.  Mine is the type that can rotate 360 degrees. It is now movable through the 90 degrees movement by fingers.

Should the valve itself be spring loaded, or is that all in the actuator? Doesn't feel like any spring in the valve - it stays where you leave it.

The little 'manual' lever on my actuator seems suspect, and the spring in the actuator doesn't seem to be strong enough to return it purely to the HW setting. Motors have the power to move to CH OK.


So, change the actuator (dead easy), the valve (need to drain down), or both?


Like many newer houses, valve is a Danfoss Randall HS3 (HSV3 valve with HSA3 actuator)

The one`s I`ve worked on were spring-biased (depending on brand; either to the mid-position or to the H/W).....Like anything with rusty/calcified hot water passing through it, they can and do 'stick' and if the actuator is still working but just 'weak', then I`d change the whole valve assembly and avail myself of the opportunity to drain down and add a new dose of system protector additive.

Danfoss Data Sheet: http://www.uk-plumbing.com/brochure/danfoss/HPHSdata.pdf

Installation/Wiring Instructions: http://www.uk-plumbing.com/brochure/danfoss/HPHSInstall.pdf

seems to be working since I've freed up the valve itself, I'll keep an eye on it