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[Bourne]

Hi all,
         I'm going to change the wishbones on my 1998 MV6 (have judder when braking) discs also slightly buckled so they'll be done at the same time. Does anyone know if the MV6 wishbones are the same as standard? I'm just wondering whether they're different to allow for the reduced ride height.

[Paul M]

Pretty sure they're same as standard.

[Dazzler]

They all the same on the Omega B's 1994-1999, 2.0-3.0

[TheBoy]

yup, bog std. The VSC ones from ebay are recommended.

[Bourne]

Thanks for your help guys.  Much appreciated.

[kcl]

Is there some changes after 1999? I just bought both wishbones from a local aftermarket store and in their catalogue it's the same part for all B-omegas. This has to be checked before I start to change them....

[Marks DTM Calib]

The bushes were of an updated design from late 1999, this change was incorporated into all the wishbones and can be retro fitted.

[kcl]

Thanks for confirming, no worries then. Is it essential to remove the steering knuckle as it says in "How To"? I would figure that it's possible to just remove the bolts from cross-member and detach the ball joint from the knuckle and get the wishbone replaced? Or am I missing something? Doing this could avoid the need of adjusting the geometry... Comments?

[Marks DTM Calib]

I never remove the steering knuckle.....I just remove the bolts and split the ball joint.

A few notes.

The ball joint can be a swine to split, so once the pinch bolt is removed I use a small chisel tapped into the split in the ball joint mount to open it up a little. Then I use a pry bar suitably placed between the lower hub where the ball joint sits and the wishbone. With a little pressure applied to the pry bar I then give the bar a whack with a 4ld lump hammer about 30cm from the ball joint.

Remember also that the subframe bolts are different lengths so need to be refitted in the right place (I got one wrong recently on my facelift adn had to go back afterwards to correct coz I was to tired do it at the time).

Use plenty of grease on the bolts and ball joint when re-fitting.

Dont tighten the front bush bolt until the car is on the ground or the bush will be distorted under normal use and will fail very quickly. Once tightened on the ground, you can safely jack the car back up to torque the bolt to the correct amount.

Wishbone changes often throw the wheel track out and can sometimes alter camber to so its worth getting it checked afterwards or risk knackering some tyres!

[kcl]

Changed the wishbones last night, about three hours altogether with four beers...   The first side was harder, especially assembly: I first put the wishbone to the frame and tried to force the ball joint to the knuckle   That's not the right way, as I learned doing the other side: put first the ball joint to right place (not all the way, just to give it right direction) and then whack&jug&judder the bone to the frame.

The improvement was quite significant, had 160 000 km on the clock with the originals. But, however, the car still tends to pull to the right...something is still not as it should be...