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[PaulW]

I'm having continuing problems with the cruise on the Elite.  It's a 2.5 Auto '98 S reg.  To put it bluntly, it will not and never has engaged since I got the car...

I've checked the multiplug on the cruise, and got the following...

A - +12v but 0v when 0 or Brake pressed  -  Returns constant 0v
B - 0v but +12v when I pressed - Returns 0v but +12v when I pressed
C - 0v but +12v when R pressed - Returns 0v but +12v when I pressed
D - +12v on Auto - Returns 0v (should the car be in D and not P??)
E - Earth - Not Tested.
F - Permanent +12v - +12v
G - 0v but +12v when Brake pressed - 0v but +12v when Brake pressed

So it looks like a combination of both pins A and D not returning what they should, but given G supplies +12v when the brake is pressed, I'd guess the brake switch is fine given the cruise is on a separate switching point from the actual brake lights? (dual switch)

So the question is... Could this be a stalk-related issue, or could it be a fuse/relay?  All the lights on the car do work (reverse, brake, sides, heads, fogs...) As they were all replaced by myself around 10 days ago with bulbs purchased from VX.

Puzzling...

[Marks DTM Calib]

Brake switch is playing up......it does need to be in drive though.

You can short out pins 1 and 2 on the brake switch (think its 1 and 2!) to get round it (not a risk as there is a further brake input via the auto box any way)

[Marks DTM Calib]

Or.....press the brake pedal down and pull the plunger out on the brake switch.....this often fixes it to.

[PaulW]

Cheers Mark, I'll give them a try later.  Was a bugger getting the plug of the cruise so ended up unbolting & removing it to do it, so now have the plug under the scuttle with the alarm so I can keep testing to make sure everything is ok before I reconnect it  

So...

Put in Drive, press brake, pull plunger...  Will get back with results tonight most likely  

[PaulW]

Right...

D supplied +12v when the autobox was in Drive, so thats fine...  A was still 0v all round, so checked the switch...

Looks like Vauxhall at some point replaced the 4-pin Switch with a standard non-cruise brake switch, as I could only feel 2 pins on it.  Also took a picture on my mobile (which I won't bother uploading) and again shows 2 pins only.  

So... Next question...

How the fek do you actually remove the brake switch as I cant see nor reach very well up there at all, and also does anyone have an idea as to the P/N for the 4-pin switch for the cruise??

Cheers again!

[ffcgary1]

Paul i have a brand new 4 pin brake switch for sale if you want it £15 inc postage. Pm me if interested.

Gary

[jonathanh]

Right...

D supplied +12v when the autobox was in Drive, so thats fine...  A was still 0v all round, so checked the switch...

Looks like Vauxhall at some point replaced the 4-pin Switch with a standard non-cruise brake switch, as I could only feel 2 pins on it.  Also took a picture on my mobile (which I won't bother uploading) and again shows 2 pins only.  

So... Next question...

How the fek do you actually remove the brake switch as I cant see nor reach very well up there at all, and also does anyone have an idea as to the P/N for the 4-pin switch for the cruise??

Cheers again!

one step you can take before buying any parts is to bridge out the two unused terminals on the 4 pin brake multiplug.  Not the two that are used, the other two.  a paperclip does the trick.  Quick blast up the road will confirm whether cruise works.  Also, it should still disconnect when the brake is pressed, however IMO you do need the 4 pin switch for a permenant solution.

[TheBoy]

I personally found the paperclip in switch method unreliable.

New switch is around £11 +VAT iirc.

[partsman]

Wire the two wires together, the brake switch is not important to the cruise operation on the auto as the same signal is derived via auto box wiring so can safely be done away with.....

[jonathanh]

TB is absolutely right: the paperclip in the brake multiplug is unreliable, but it is just enough to get you to check whether the system will work with a proper switch in there before you spend any real money.

Second, as to bridging out the switch altogeher,get a proper switch.  you can bridge it out but what happens if the existing brake switch fails: cruise stays engaged just when you do not want it to.  It may be a million to one chance but if you bridge it out and it contributes to an accident?  

[partsman]

Second, as to bridging out the switch altogeher,get a proper switch.  you can bridge it out but what happens if the existing brake switch fails: cruise stays engaged just when you do not want it to.  It may be a million to one chance but if you bridge it out and it contributes to an accident?  

Least of your worries.....it sets it up as per a manual car configuration (and almost all other car configurations out there) and your biggest concern will be the person behind who is now carrering into your back-end due to no brake lights.

Bridge it out....

[Craig_R]

have alook on ebay for some one braking a drive by wire omega and send them a question about buying it.
I did this with a 2.6 eilte being broken and both the brake and clutch switches set me back £5 with P&P included

Craig

[PaulW]

Problem solved

£13inc VAT on TC the switch cost, just ripped the other one out to remove it, as couldnt get the clips to come undone as the switch didn't pull out all the way so the little plastic stopper inside wouldnt pull far enough out...

Then faffed about trying to fit the new cruise switch.  2 square holes on the car, didn't realise it went in the top one   so spent 30 mins trying to put it in the bottom hole  

Sorted and fixed   tis bloody surreal though!  Never driven a car with cruise before

Now to get some petrol and find a motorway...